Yes, the green light flashes until the battery is fully charged on Ryobi chargers. This will change to a solid green light when the battery is fully charged until the charger goes to a power-saving mode. Not all of the Ryobi chargers have a power-saving mode. However, for those that do, the green led will dim over time and then brighten and dim slowly again in this mode.
My Ryobi charger, model P113, actually has a key for the LEDs on the unit on the left of the battery port. The manual for this charger is here: https://manuals.ttigroupna.com/system/files/5495/original/P113_192_trilingual.pdf?2011 . Ryobi has many of their manuals on their site. Look up your charger/tool here: https://www.ryobitools.com/power-tools/support/manuals , Home Depot's web site also has many of these manuals on the product site for the tools that they sell.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
I had a similar problem. I was going to take the charger apart but I ran into triangular socket head screws so in desperation I gently bent the 5 contact wires out from the battery socket. After slipping in the battery and plugging the charger into the wall socket, the charging light returned. The charger contacts that come into contact with the battery are easily pushed back and after a few battery insertions fail to make contact with the battery.
You may want to look for the manual but it is mostly caused by a bad battery. The battery may be discharged far and many chargers are not capable to charge batteries being even close to full. Green means charging and red is fail. It keeps trying. A broken and useless battery may show the same indicators flashing. Inspect the battery to make sure it is in a good condition, like acid at about the right level and no traces of melting on the container or visible loose/bent plates. Put a voltage or multimeter on 20 Volt at its terminals and determine the battery has any voltage to begin with. 11Volt indicates an empty battery and 12,8 to 13,2 is probably full. An empty 12 Volt battery is charged with a 12 Volt ~ 1 Amp power adapter (maximum 1/10 of battery Amp but not until fully charged) and preferably a 1 Amp fuse in the + line. This is "attended charging," meaning things must not get hot and charging is stopped before the battery is full. Then try the charger again, always the 12 Volt clamps attached first and next the plug in the mains. Disconnecting is in reverse order.
Bad batteries often have sulfur on their plates and can be revived by fast discharging but the success rate is low. Meaning a battery can be better but not good enough. Batteries have a life of 5 years and closer to 10 when always charged. When charging was low and often not, the battery could have died after two or three years. This apart from a limited number of charge-discharge cycles. The test is with all lights on and then not dimming in the first minute or after ten seconds. Good batteries must hold charge for a week and not much less every day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNDgV_6k12E
Reverse and Forward Mode: Try putting the drill in reverse mode and hit the trigger, then forward mode. If that doesn't work, tap the tip on the driveway but don't slam it. It should release .
Use a Wrench: First, make sure that the chuck is in the locked position. Next, use an allen wrench to loosen the set screw on the side of the chuck. Finally, unscrew the drill bit from the chuck .
Remove Chuck Collar: Use a wrench or pliers to loosen the chuck collar and remove it from the chuck. Then, use a screwdriver or other tool to remove the chuck jaws and any other components that may be blocking access to the stuck drill bit. Once these components are removed, you should be able to access the drill bit and remove it from the chuck .
According to the operating instructions for the Hilti TE 6-A22, if the rotary hammer is running but there is no hammering action, it could be because the rotary hammer is too cold. To fix this, bring the tip of the drill bit into contact with the working surface, switch the rotary hammer on and allow it to run. If necessary, repeat the procedure until the hammering mechanism begins to operate. Also, ensure that the function selector switch is set to "Drilling without hammering" .
If this doesn't work, you may need to take your tool to a professional repair service. You can find a list of authorized Hilti service centers on their website.
I have an MC cordless impact drill that isn't as strong as it use to be and laggy when screwing in wood. I took it apart in the hopes of replacing the brushes or see something obvious that would be the issue but unsure if it has or where would the brushes be to replace in first place. Model #054-3175-8
Seems batteries have completed their normal life and require replacement. Keep in mind that when batteries are exhausted, their voltage remain normal but loose current. It seems that batteries do not sustain current i.e. have become un usable.
limited info generic answer if new return for refund or replacement --or notify manufacturer if have replacement parts---do online search using make and model for repair parts[kit]
Are you thinking you are posting to Bosch Technical Services or Bosch Customer Complaints Department? We are FIXYA dot com.
It sounds like the battery is flat. Did you charge the battery? You can test the output voltage of the battery with a multimeter. You can't do anything else as that would void the warranty. Contact the company and claim on it. As it is only one month old you can ask the seller to change it or refund under the UK Sale of Goods Act 'not of merchantable quality'. I presume you are UK as you refer to the light as a 'torch'. I am British, but live in Canada.
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