Are you thinking you are posting to Bosch Technical Services or Bosch Customer Complaints Department? We are FIXYA dot com.
It sounds like the battery is flat. Did you charge the battery? You can test the output voltage of the battery with a multimeter. You can't do anything else as that would void the warranty. Contact the company and claim on it. As it is only one month old you can ask the seller to change it or refund under the UK Sale of Goods Act 'not of merchantable quality'. I presume you are UK as you refer to the light as a 'torch'. I am British, but live in Canada.
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If you've replaced the variable speed unit in your Bosch 11318EVS SDS-max Demolition Hammer and the variable speed is still not working, there could be a few potential reasons for this issue. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot and address the problem:
Check Wiring Connections: Ensure that all wiring connections related to the variable speed control are properly connected and secure. Loose or damaged wires can disrupt the variable speed function.
Control Switch: The control switch itself could be faulty. Test the switch to make sure it's functioning as intended. Use a multimeter to check for continuity across the switch terminals in different speed settings.
Speed Control Potentiometer: The potentiometer, which is responsible for adjusting the variable speed, could be malfunctioning. Test the potentiometer with a multimeter to ensure it's changing resistance smoothly as you adjust the speed.
Electronic Control Board: The issue could be with the electronic control board that governs the variable speed function. Inspect the board for any signs of damage, such as burnt components or solder joints.
Brushes and Carbon Motor Contacts: Worn brushes or carbon motor contacts can affect the motor's performance and, consequently, the variable speed control. Check the condition of the brushes and motor contacts and replace them if necessary.
Power Supply and Voltage: Ensure that the tool is receiving the correct power supply and voltage. Incorrect power supply can affect the tool's overall performance.
Manufacturer's Support: If you've exhausted your troubleshooting efforts and the variable speed is still not working, it's advisable to contact Bosch customer support or a professional tool technician. They can provide more specific guidance based on the model and diagnose the issue accurately.
Professional Repair: If the issue is complex or involves internal components, it might be best to seek the assistance of a professional tool repair technician who has experience with Bosch power tools.
Remember that working with power tools and electrical components carries inherent risks. If you're not comfortable or experienced with tool repairs, it's recommended to seek professional assistance to ensure safety and prevent further damage to the tool.
Depends what damage has been done to the motor. If the tool is still running but sparking you need to check what sort of sparks they are. Short fat blue sparks only going halfway round the commutator (brush end of motor/armature) then it is 90% probable that just your field coil assy is blown. If it is thinner, whitersparks going all the way around then it is the armature and possibly the field aswell. Another way to check is to remove the brushes via the covers on either side at teh bottom of the motor and check the contacting surface. If it is fairly shiney and polishe then there is little sparking and hopefully no cause for concern. If one or both is pitted and dull it has been sparking and burning. If one is shorter and darker than teh otehr this indicates a problem with the field coil. It isn't a massivly hard job to change the motor parts. If you need more advice let me know.
Top up the transmission with PAG150 oil. The Bosch stuff is hideously expensive, but it's the same as the 150-grade oil used in car a/c systems. I fill them so the oil *just* covers the big gear.
It sounds like the issue with your Bosch bulldog extreme max hammer is likely due to worn out or damaged brushes. Here are the steps to remove and replace the brushes:
Unplug the hammer drill from the power source.
Remove the two screws on the top of the hammer drill handle with a screwdriver.
Lift off the top of the handle to expose the motor.
Locate the brush holders on either side of the motor.
Gently pull out the brush holder on one side of the motor.
Remove the brush from the holder by gently pulling it straight out.
Repeat for the other side of the motor.
Inspect the brushes for damage, wear, or discoloration. Blackening of the brushes is normal, but if they are excessively worn or damaged, they should be replaced.
Insert the new brushes into the brush holders, making sure they are properly seated.
Replace the brush holder on one side of the motor, then the other.
Reattach the top of the handle and replace the screws.
Regarding the digs in the motor surface, if they are not too deep and do not appear to affect the operation of the motor, they may not need to be addressed. However, if they are deep or if they appear to be affecting the motor's performance, it may be necessary to replace the motor.
It's important to note that working on power tools can be dangerous and should only be attempted by those with the necessary knowledge and experience. If you're unsure about any step in the process, it's best to seek the help of a professional.
Yes, the issue you're describing with the green power light coming on but the tool not functioning could be related to the trigger/switch. A malfunctioning trigger/switch can prevent the tool from operating properly. You may want to test the trigger/switch with a multimeter to see if it is functioning properly. If the trigger/switch is not the issue, it could be with the motor or power supply. In that case, I would recommend reaching out to a professional for repair
Have you tried a tool repair service? My husband is always seeking advice from the tool professionals. Due to constant use, his chargers stop working often and, although he is a handyman himself, there are times when his own knowledge isn't sufficient. bourgetbros com
If it is 15 years old the batteries will need replacing. They were the worst of all the battery types and were replaced by Nickel Metal Hydride and now Lithium. NiCad batteries suffer with 'Memory Effect' and also lost power in storage. Find the YouTube channel of 'Big Clive', he just did a video on battery types, pros and cons.
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive
IIRC, two terminals are the charging plus and minus and the other two are for the charger diagnostics.
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The least expensive is $95.95 on Amazon, the most expensive is $690.00, A lot of times, soaking stuff in gasoline works to fix you damaged tool. Be careful.
10th March 2013. I experienced the same problem with my Bosch drill. Yes, it also only worked when held in the vertical position. I pulled the drill apart. In my case, the problem was right at the base of the drill where the electrical cord and the drill meet. In that area, there is a flat piece of hard plastic which holds the cord securely in place. This is held down by two screws. Directly beside that is the rubber attachment that hold the drill chuck. Well, right in that spot, there was a gaping hole in the wiring (refer attached photo). It will not be seen, unless you, or a service agent, pull that area apart. Anyway, I shortened the cord, secured the wiring again, and the drill works perfectly. Good luck. Ted.
Hello, I was able to fix this charger via replacing several parts in the source part which were either short-circuited (transistors and diodes) or burnt (resistors):
F1 (fuse 2,5A)
R5 0,91R +-1%
V5 (ST)P6NK90Z
V1-V4 1N4007
V6 2N3904
V8 1N4148
R7, R8 300k +-2%
This won't help after 5 years, but maybe it can be helpful for someone else.