Question edited for a lot more clarity.
Question moved to model category.
The only way to do that would be fit an axle from a much newer model. It is easy enough to fit a new hub with a disc, but you have to hang a brake caliper somewhere, then you need the hydraulic pipes and some type of splitter to the master cylinder and front discs. The best bet is stick with the drum brakes or invest in a new truck. 1999 is pretty old.
Here are some video ideas though from people who say they did it..
bingo for AUSTRALIACARS ARE NOT THE SAME WORLD WIDE AT ALLWE ARE N.AMERICAN. Petrol engines: 2.2 L F2 I4 2.6 L G6E I4 4.0 L Cologne SOHC V6 (2005-06, Australia) Diesel engines: 2.5 L WL I4 2.5 L WL-T turbo I4<<<<< this one. 2.9 L W9 I4SO ASK MAZDA IN YOUR TOWN FOR THE SERVICE MANUALTHE ARE NONE UP HERE.
No engine told( size and cyl count) or true Mazda name of eng.
hood up does engine crank pulley spin or not?
whines is bad, grinds is good, GRRRRRR GRRRR
WIZZZZ up and whine. ever.
wizzup (screams is a better word) me deaf here.
if not crank spin, he starter solenoid is bad. or flywheel teeth stripped.
the actual engine crank shaft must spin or there will be no spark
nor fueling!
check fuses
spark dead engine spins ,fuses good is
bad spark ICM module,. or bad Ignition coil.
or distributor or a wreck cap bad or rotor or both. new spark wires here,not 28 year old wires HV,cap ,rotor or spark plugs here
I'm sorry, but I'm not able to find the specific torque settings for the crankshaft main and big end bolts for the E2200 R2 engine without more information, such as the year of the engine or the vehicle it's installed in. The torque settings can vary depending on the specific engine and vehicle model.
I would recommend referring to the engine's service manual or contacting a certified mechanic for the specific torque settings for your engine to ensure proper installation and prevent damage.
The valve tappet clearance for the Mazda Bongo Brawny can vary depending on the specific engine model and year. Here are some general specifications for the different engine types:
2.0L FE engine: Intake valve clearance - 0.18-0.22mm, Exhaust valve clearance - 0.28-0.32mm
2.5L WL engine: Intake valve clearance - 0.20-0.25mm, Exhaust valve clearance - 0.30-0.35mm
2.5L RF engine: Intake valve clearance - 0.20-0.25mm, Exhaust valve clearance - 0.30-0.35mm
It's important to note that the valve tappet clearance should be checked and adjusted by a qualified mechanic using the correct specifications and tools. Incorrect adjustment can cause engine damage and poor performance.
Hi Anonymous, L3 engine 2.3L or
(Mazdaspeed 6)
3.0 L Duratec 30 V6????????????
post the VIN and then we see what is there.
got the TURBO with
map sensor is covered i the service manual for sure and the simple test.
the mostly never fail but vacuum to it can
so we clean it.
the engine parts locator for
(Mazdaspeed 6)3.0 L Duratec 30 V6
engine shows no such MAP sensor.
there is and egr boost baro sensor
why not do your own hunts in the service manualthe 3.0 liter uses MAF sensor,mass air flow to calculate fuel rates.
why not post a problem first.
like engine power low, or what ever it is
so the helper can be on the same page
btw
the 2.3L (L3 engine code) for sure has MAP sensor.
just incase it is L3 engine and not larger V6
here is (id 10) the map 2.3L only 4 cyl. not V6
v6 has none. (egr yes) egr baro is for egr testing only OBD2 .
To remove the cup holder/ashtray in a 2004 Mazda MPV, you can follow these steps:
Open the cup holder/ashtray and locate the small tab on the right-hand side of the unit.
Using a flathead screwdriver or other suitable tool, gently press down on the tab to release the retaining clip.
While holding down the tab, pull the cup holder/ashtray unit towards you to release it from the center console.
Once the unit is free, disconnect any wiring harnesses or light bulbs attached to it, if applicable.
To reinstall the cup holder/ashtray, simply reverse these steps, making sure the retaining clip snaps back into place when reinserting the unit into the center console.
we can not see you seeing codeswhere are you eyes looking at.?is starter dead>>or cranks fast but will not start.?or starts and stalls in 1 to 10 seconds?or starts and stalls later? even driving long timewe can no guess symptoms,they must be told.or?use real scan tool OBD2, not some $13 code reader junk GRADE.I do USA answers, so if not here vast countries do not do OBD2 that year.\\stop guessing go broke ? IS MY ADVICE,post all symptoms and you did not. do that.2.3 L L3 I4 (EP3) CHAIN CAM GOOD;3.0 L AJ V6 (EPF) CHAIN TOO, GOOD.one of 2 engines that year, USA.if starter motor works and cranks fast, there are 50 causes of engine + EFI failures possible.a tech is not daunted. he has the 20 tools at hand to find causes by testing. I WILL NOT GUESS FOR YOU, BUT WILL SHOW THE BASIC tests.CHECK ALL FUSES FIRST. SKIP NONE.SCAN THE obd2 port USING A REAL SCAN TOOL, NOT A #$13 LAME CODE READER. EVER.SEE DTC REAL ERROR AND POST THEM ALL (A WIN/WIN)!\\OK NO DTC'S CALLED (SLANG) AS CODELESS FAILURE OF THE ENGINE.>many times this claim is false. (junk tools)IF ENGINE IS CAM BELT DRIVEn IT IS CHECKED FIRST.NO BELT. GOOD. it is chain drive.WE DO ALL ENGINE TESTS FIRST, COMPRESSION.\over 150PSI on all cyl.SOME HAVE VVT CAMS WE CHECK THAT TOO. NOT STUCK ADVANCED,PHASE2:THEN WE TEST SPARK ON ALL SPARK PLUGS THIS IS TEST USING REAL TOOLS. V6 USES 6 COP COILS SO DOES I4 ENGINE TOO. IF CMP OR CKP SENSORS FAIL ALL COPS GO DEADOR GO INTERMITTENT, THAT ANY TIMING LAMP CAN SEE.OK SPARK AND ENGINE ARE GOODPhase 3: FUELING.WE NOW TEST FUELINGIF FUEL PRESSURE TESTS FAIL; WE FIX THAT. NOW.ASK hOW.THIS POST IS hOW TO FISH, HOW TO TEST NOT HOW TO GUE$$IF GUESSING IS YOUR GAME SAY SO,. SAVING HARD WORK OF HELPERS. WASTED./MY ANSWER IS FOR USA VIN CODED CARS, NOT WORLD WIDE.good luck, finding cause
NO YEAR CAR TOLD. NOR VIN.
OVER LOADING THE GEM WILL NEVER BE FUN./
NO LAMPS ADDED, MAKE MODEL # OR COUNT TOLD
ARE THE LAMPS LED OR NOT?
I GUESS WIRED TO THE PARK LAMP FEED.
NO CAR TOLD YEAR, AND MATTERS HUGE.
Based on the symptoms you have described, it sounds like there may be an issue with the transmission in your Mazda 3. The loud clicking sound when shifting into reverse could be a sign of worn or damaged gears, while the hesitation and lurching in first gear could be due to a slipping or malfunctioning clutch.
It's also possible that there could be an issue with the transmission fluid, such as low or dirty fluid, which can cause shifting problems and other issues. I would recommend having a qualified mechanic inspect your vehicle to diagnose the exact cause of the problem and recommend the appropriate repairs.
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