20 Most Recent
2001 kawasaki ER-5 Questions & Answers
How to remove cylinder head er 5
If you have to ask then you don't have the knowledge to carry out this complex task without trained help. First get a good workshop manual because it may not be possible with the engine in the frame. If it is possible you will need access to a good range of tools, a suitable work area, bench, vise and a selection of ice cream tubs to place removed parts in, in order. The manual will be needed for torque settings, assembly sequences, gasket positions etc. All this needs knowledgeable help. You don't say why you need to remove the head? Perhaps if you said why, we could advise you.
Kawasaki er 500 wont
you have a blockage in the carbs,,sounds like pilot jets,,either way carbs need to be removed and cleaned
When trying to start bike starter has whirring
Your starter is not engaging? Bad "bendix', low power level in yolur battery or stripped gear on your starter. Id suspect the gear.
Remove the starter (two bolts, probably 8 mm <>) and the power wire. Inspect the business end of the starter (the gear) . Stripped? replace it.
If you are brave, hook up the wire, create a ground path using a heavy jumper cable or equal, turn on the switch and press the button. What happens? If the gear is deformed, replace it. If the gear fails to shoot out - find out why. If it runs slow, you may have a low voltage issue. Check your batteryand charging system.
If you need more help, let me know. Let me know if this works for you.
a
Check/Replace spark plugs
You bike might of came with the tools under the seat . Thats all you should need . You might need to remove the fairings and/or gas tank . If you have under 100,000 miles . You shouldnt need new plugs . It dont hurt to check .
My er5 runs rough when i ease off on throttle and
Hi there Dave
I would check Carby setting. Like float levels, Mixture screw setting. These can make the bike run
roughily. Also the spark plugs settings, eg not right gap or heat range or ever reach. One other thing
is vacuum leak eg from a vacuum hose ( this usely makes the bike run rough all the time) Simple way
to test this is use a can of WD 40 & spray over the vacuum hoses & if it stops the problem for a short
time you need to replace the hose or fix the leak. I hope this helps your problem, if not please put up
some more info on what you have done to help you There is many little things that can course is
problem.
Regrades Lighten
Carbies willn't set float level,right floods,left sets to low
I don't know if its any help but I've fixed my Honda with similar problem. It turns out I reassembled the rich carbys air cut off valve incorrectly. Have you checked yours? I'm wondering if the cut off valves somehow affect the other parts of the carbys. Mine is running sweet now.
Lacks power on acceleration idles
If the bike is a four stroke, chances are the valves need to be re-seated. Do a compression check. If you re-post the problem, tell us the year, model and engine size of your bike. That will allow us to help better.
I have a 2005 ER5
This should help ya but get it quick,,,,,http://www.myacrobatpdf.com/8383/kawasaki-er-5-motorcycle-service-manual.html#
Have fitted new cush rubbers
You can buy a piece of rubber at the hardware store. They sell a pad for making rubber plumbing gaskets . You could experiment with carefully placed shims to see if it helps. I do not think it will hurt anything to try, and it might be nice to get the clunk out.
I have a 500 ex
You have to have the slack of the chain at the adjustment side. or the loosness can be on at another portion of the chain, preventing proper adjustment.
How do i top up
What is the make and model of the bike. Most bikes will have jug behind one of the side covers where you add coolant.
I have a 2002 Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 I'm customizing it can the rectifier be moved so it's not just hanging there.
Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components.
While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:
- Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
- Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
- Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
- Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.
Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality.
If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.
12/23/2023 9:33:25 PM •
kawasaki...
•
Answered
on Dec 23, 2023
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