Whirlpool range door locked

I have had a similar problem(locked after self clean and NO display.) After much research we found the solution through telephonic advice from a master appliance repairman. Mind you that I did NOT get any help from the Whirlpool Customer Service number. Customer Service said it was probably VERY costly to repair and probably a blown circuit board. We were convinced our 2.5 yr old oven was about to cost more to repair than it was potentially worth. Then our telephonic advice from a friend, the master appliance repairman came to our rescue. It was explained to us that whenever an oven in most ANY brand locks and remains locked, it is usually due to a blown out thermal overload protector. This is the thermostatic fuse that will burn out during a self clean cycle and it's designed to help protect your oven from overheating. It is a VERY quick fix but does require a replacement part. But rest assured if I can do this fix, you too can. I am a 46 yr old female nurse without ANY electronics experience and was coached through this by my brother. Here's what to do. Move your oven away from the wall and remove the back panel (simple screws holding it in place.) Unplug your range for safety reasons. If yours is gas (and mine is) be mindful of the gas feed (mine had plenty of slack and presented no problem but worthy of mentioning.) You are looking for a part that's sort of in the 10 oclock position, it's round about the size of a quarter and held in by 2 screws. There are two wires coming into it. My part has the actual part number written on it and was the very part number I was advised to find based off the model number. You can call any appliance parts house (mine is Fox Appliance Parts in Atlanta) and give them your model number of your oven. Ask them for the part number for a "thermal fuse." They will provide the number, ship it to you or if you're local, you can pick it up. It should be around $30. Here's the cool part...you can diagnose this FIRST to see if it will fix your problem by doing this one simple thing. Remove your actual fuse by unscrewing the two screws and then slide off the two wires attached (it will slip out.) Now take the two wires still on the back of your oven and patch the two contacts together. Now plug in your oven....relax...you are merely bypassing the fuse and it will not explode or anything crazy! If the thermal fuse is your problem, your oven display will now magically reappear and the door will unlock! Now you know definitively that this is indeed your problem. Replace the part and you're back in business. You MUST replace the part though as I've been explained that it is a key safety fuse to help prevent overheating, $30 fix, even a GIRL can do it, and it takes about 10 minutes. Try it....You most likely do NOT need a new oven and do NOT need a repairman. And I was ready to replace my 2.5 yr old oven! Totally not necessary and this is something you can do!

Suggestion for an easier solution:

Or... you can lift the top of the stove up (the way you would do if you were cleaning the underneath of the burners. Once the top is lifted you have a birds eye view of the hook that locks the door. Slide your finger in and manually push the lock open. Works like a charm & the key is WD40.

After my wife ran the clean cycle, our Whirlpool estate gas range had the F5 E1 error code and the door was locked. I went to my local appliance store (Judd and
Black in Everett Washington) and gave them the model, seriel number and error code. That code is for a faulty door latch motor or sensor. Both of which are on the same assembly, purchased as one unit for $58.00 (2012) They gave me the code list and oven schematic with the latch location, but you have to ask for them. Otherwise they will just assume you know and toss the print out. Here's what I JUST finished doing not more than 5 minutes ago, Saturday, May 19th. and what you need to do. I slowly pulled my stove away from the wall, checking behind to make sure where the gas line is, and how much slack it has. Unplug the power to the stove, LEAVE THE GAS ATTATCHED. Remove the large sheet metal panel, four screws up each side, two on the lower edge about six inches from each side. Then take the smaller, upper sheet metal panel off that was concealed by the larger one, two screws. The latch motor assembly is located on the upper left, and has 6 wires and a metal rod. The rod is what's holding your door closed. Lift it away from the assembly and either push or pull on it to unlock your door. Now, take the new assembly, and one wire at a time, move the wires from the old assembly to the new one, and left it hang. Remove two screws holding the old assembly then install the new assembly with the two screws. Plug in the stove to verify the problem is solved (unplug the stove if you need to for reinstalling the panels.) Reinstall the inner, then outer sheet metal panels. Slide the stove close enough to plug it in, and then slide it back in place.

The whole process took about ten minutes.

The problem is you can't get the side panels off unless you can open the door to remove the top!! You can diconnect the power and remove the panel at the rear of the stove, you will find the small gear motor that closes the latch. Rotate the gear motor to realease the door look and your in! Jeff

F5 says you have a problem with door's latch switch. Could be that the switch become wet during the cleaning process or it just become defective. You can check the switch easly by ohm-meater. In case it become wet, you just need to dry it, and in case it become defective, you should replace it. Be awrae you should disconnect oven's power cable before starting your tests !!!! Good luck!!!