SOURCE: truck shuts down after about a mile.then wont restart until it cools down then same thing again
Have you had it checked for codes on the computer, although the check engine light is not on, the truck my have some codes stored in the computer. A common fault for a flame out at speed is the cam positing sensor. there ia a rcall I beleive on these sensors if you have not had it done as of yet, and it will generate a code.
If you are in the US, I understand that if you take you car to an Auto Zone store they will read off the codes for you, once you have the codes then you can plan a course of action.
Other large auto parts outlets may also provide this service as they want your parts business.
Hope this is of some help.
Ed
SOURCE: 1995 fat boy- harley davidson
This is going to be a problem that will need to be tracked down because there are several things that could cause this. It's going to be in the electrical system, and any one or combination of the following can cause this, Faulty switch, especially the ignition switch, bad wiring which could be a bad connection, loose ground, bare wire, or broken wire, These are the two cheapest, but the hardest to find. Now, it can also be a bad or malfunctioning ignition module, coil, voltage regulator, and magneto assembly. You will have to test each of these. I recommend that you start at the spark plug end and work your way back since most of this is in line and work in conjunction with each other. Keep in mind that this being an intermittent problem, it may be extremely hard to find.
I also have a 95 Softail, and recently had a similar intermittent problem, turned out that there was a hairline crack in the regulator, and the problem would only occur if the regulator was warm enough for the crack to open a bit. I also traced the wiring harness, found and replaced several wires that were in bad shape, thinned, stretched, corroded, etc... You will be amazed at how much wear the wiring harness will have on a 13 year old bike.
Don't let this discourage you. In my opinion, the mid to late 90's models are the best HD ever built, and the Evo is by far the best engine. With the newer bike you have to worry about things like, crank and cam sensors, ECM's, fuel injection, and all the other electronic BS. It's to the point that the average rider can't work on his/her own bike, which is getting away from the HD tradition. That's a great bike you have, keep it for a long time. I may buy a newer bike someday, I don't know, but I do know that I will always keep my 95. Good luck with this and be safe.
SOURCE: Want to replace rear brake pads 1995 Harley Fat boy
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
SOURCE: I need a diagram of brake system for my 1994
The wiring is very simple. The switches get power from the orange accessory wire. When the switch is closed, it powers up the red wire going directly to the brake light bulb.
SOURCE: Fork height of C50 vs Harley fat boy
1) Can not find this spec.
2) C50 rake is 33 degrees, Fat Boy's is 32.
3) Many have had over 50k miles without any major engine work. Luck and riding conditions determine this to a large degree, but I would say that most need to start thinking about valve/ring work at 60K.
4)Valve adjustment recommended at every 7500 miles; about a 4-hour backyard job, but doable without any real specialized tools. (I've been letting mine slide for 19k, just because it's been running so good!) Cam chain tensioner failures have been reported, but this seems to be the exception, and the use of synthetic oil may lessen the chances, Problems with water getting to the rear shaft splines have prompted owners to pull them and add Molybdenum paste at each rear tire change, and this requires replacing the oil seal- about $11.
5) Depends on current mileage and price, but with a modicum of proper care, you could expect 50k miles of riding without major issues.
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