When I pull in clutch the bikes stills resists is it the clutch cable or the clutch itself?

Mechanical issue: clutch not disengaging completely...
engine off - put in gear and roll back and forth with clutch released does engine stop the bike from rolling? Now pull clutch lever in and try rolling again is clutch cable adjusted properly?
Electrical issue: bike thinks clutch is still engaged and kills motor when not in neutral
Is the clutch switch properly connected and working? Is it adjusted properly? Use a multimeter to read resistance across switch contacts does it change state when clutch is pulled in?

clutch plates need replacing , I would replace the steels as well and also change the oil and filter as it will be polluted with clutch dust.
Would also help to flush clutch fluid as well.

Hi, this is a clutch adjustment issue. If you have maxed out the cable adjustment at the clutch lever, you will have to make adjustments down below, where the cable contacts the clutch cover. There's a million YouTube videos that will walk you through the process. If the bike still pulls forward when the clutch lever is engaged then your cable has probably stretched past its adjustment range over the years and needs to be replaced.

Ok follow this sequence exactly. First find the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable. It's usually near the frame down-tubes in front of the engine. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster sleeve inward getting as much slack as possible in the cable.

Now down on the primary, take the derby cover off. In the center of the clutch is the adjuster screw. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW OR YOU WILL BREAK THE INNER CLUTCH HUB. If necessary, back the screw off and back in several times until you get the feel for what you're doing. Turn it in just until you feel resistance. Then, back the screw off 1/2 turn. Lock the lock nut down and replace the derby cover.

Back at the cable adjuster, turn the adjuster sleeve back outwards until you only have about an 1/8 inch of free play at the lever. The way I determine this is I pull on the clutch cable and the clutch lever at the same time. Then I release the lever while still pulling on the cable. It's not a really forceful pull, just a slight pull. You'll see the end of the cable come out of the lever stanchion. It should come out about an 1/8 inch or so.

If this doesn't solve the problem, you may have problems with the clutch pack itself.

Good Luck
Steve

you wont feel the resistance, as the 5 or 6 springs are stronger than you will be able to push. you can probably pull it out easily, and push it back in until it feels solid, this sound fairly normal.
wait for the new cable and see how it goes.
sometimes the clutch plates can stick together if it sits for an extended time, if you roll start it and vary the throttle while holding the clutch in, it usually unfreezes them.

that could be a bad cable or your trani needs to be rebuilt.

Most of the time when this happens either you need to adjust your clutch or you have the oil level too high in your primary.

The oil level should never be higher than the lower edge of the clutch spring when the bike is standing straight up. Check this by removing the derby cover.

To adjust the clutch, find the cable adjuster in the clutch cable. It's usually covered by a rubber bellows type cover. Slide it up or down, loosen the lock nut, and turnt he adjuster inwards to put as much freeplay in the cable as possible.

Now, since you have the derby cover off checking the fluid level, you'll see a locknut and a screw in the center of the clutch assembly. Loosen the locknut. Turn the screw inward until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw, turn unwards until you feel the resistance. Then back the screw out 1/2 turn and lock the locknut.

Readjust the cable adjuster outwards until you have about an 1/8" of freeplay at the hand lever. Lock the lock nut on the cable adjuster and replace the cover. Replace the derby cover.

Now, when your bike is running and you have it in neutral gear and the clutch out, everything in your transmission is still spinning even though no torque is transmitted to the rear wheel. When you pull the clutch and attempt to shift into first gear, it takes time for these gears to slow down to a speed where they will engage the clutch dogs. A Harley transmission is NOT a syncronized transmission although it is a constant mesh transmission. A bit of gear clash is common on a warm transmission and even moreso when the transmission is cold.

Good Luck
Steve

With bike not running, rock the bike backwards and forwards and shift through all the gears. If it shifts all the way to fifth gear and back down, then the problem is not in the transmission. If you can't shift the transmission into any gear with the bike not running, just rocking it backwards and forwards, then you've got a problem with the transmission or the shift lever mechanism.

If it does shift but you still can't get it into gear something is strange. I've seen a clutch that the plates were locked together from sitting up, but it still would shift into gear. Of course, when it did shift into first gear, the bike would lurch forward and kill the engine. In this case, we had to disassemble the clutch pack and free the plates up. If you've had a new clutch put in the bike, it could simply need an adjustment. But, usually a new clutch will have a tendency to wear in and start to slip rather than drag. When a clutch causes the bike to lurch when put into gear or become difficult to find neutral with the engine running, it's dragging. I'd check the entire clutch adjustment to start with.

Slide the rubber boot on the clutch cable up, break the lock nut loose and turn the adjuster to make the cable as short as possible. Take the derby cover off the primary to gain access to the clutch release adjuster bolt. Break the large locknut loose, adjust the center bolt inward until you feel resistance. Back the screw back out and back in until you feel resistance again several times. You want to just take the slack out of the adjustment, not start to open the clutch up. Once you've turned the bolt in and feel the resistance, back the bolt back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn. Hold the bolt in this position and lock the lock nut again. Now, adjust the clutch cable back out until you get a freeplay of about an 1/8 inch at the lever. The clutch should be adjusted well enough to release at this point. If it doesn't, the clutch plates are probably stuck.

If the clutch plates are stuck, rock the bike back and forth and shift the bike into fourth or fifth gear. Now, while holding the clutch lever in, push the bike backwards and forwards far enough to "bump" the clutch. This may break the bond between the plates and free it up. If not, you'll have to disassemble the clutch in order to free it up. Good Luck.

your bike has a clutch?

This sounds like a broken clutch cable. Must replace with a new one.