Hi, Artjom there are a few things you need to look at when trying to troubleshoot your scooter for power loss. How does it sound? If you run it wide open throttle when warmed up, does it max out? or stutter? is it loud, or very quiet the symptoms can help decide what to try? When you are going full throttle, the engine should get to a high RPM and sound smooth here are a few things you should look for:
1. Plugging air intake- will start well cold, but be hard to warm up and not reach top speed. The engine will stutter at high RPM.
2. Open air intake- to much air or air cleaner is disconnected- the engine will not have power at high speed, make vacuum cleaner sound. Acts like it's running out of gas. ( sounds almost the same as a dirty carburetor.)
3. Plugged exhaust port the engine sounds and runs good, but has no power. Slow to take off. Same as a plugged muffler, but if the muffler is plugged you get a very smooth exhaust note at idle. Humming instead of pop pop pop pop.
4. Fouled spark plug- backfire. If you get backfire, pretty good chance the plug is fouled.
5. On models with belts, the gear ratio drops as the belt gets thinner (most Hondas have belts).
6. On a moped with high mileage, the belt will cause slow top end speed if worn thin.
7. If you have a bike with chain drive in an oil bath and you "OVERFILL" the oil amount in the chaincase, that makes for slow running as it requires too much power to turn the oil.
8. If your engine does not rev up well and stutters or sputters, like when it is cold with the choke on, the engine is running too rich. (too much fuel).
9. Is the air filter soaked with oil? Clean with soap and water!
10. Is the air opening in the airbox plugged? Very common for a spider or mud wasp to build a nest in one of the intake holes.
11. On some scooters it is common to get a leaf stuck in the intake port of the airbox, causing a 10mph drop in top speed.
12. Don't try to adjust the screws on the side of the carb to get lean or rich, as they are for the idle circuit only.
13. The idle air screw should be about 1 1/2 turns out on most scooters.
14. Say your engine revs but kind of wheezes or acts like, it runs out of gas it is common to have a buildup of hard carbon on the inside diameter of the hole in the main and pilot jets, and it must be carefully removed.
15. If your moped does not idle the pilot jet is likely plugged.
16. Anytime a moped has not been used for 1 year or more, and still has the same fuel in it, good chance you will need to clean the jets.
17. The poor quality of today's gasoline has made this a rather steady bet.
18. Mopeds are affected more than most vehicles because the small size hole the jet requires is easily plugged, even by thick oily fuel, or water.
19. Drain your carb once in a while! Most have a screw of some type at the bottom (where the drain needs to be) of the carb.
20. Make sure the air boot to the airbox is not on wrong, kinked, hard and shrunken.
21. Don't oil the air filter if you got the stutters.
22. On some scooters, you can leave one snap loose on the airbox lid to allow it to slightly open, to get full rpm.
23. "WARNING" too much lean out on the gas, and since the fuel cools the piston, the piston can "MELT"
24. Still slow? Check the muffler tip. Make sure no carbon buildup is inside the tip, stick something in as far as it will go.
25. Common on some scooters to have the tip bent over on a curb, then carbon up solid. common of all types to have the whole muffler plug.
26. When you have the muffler off, is it heavy?
27. Can you get the baffle out to see if the holes are plugged?
28. Check the exhaust port on the cylinder.
29. If you can't see all the way into the piston, use a mirror and a flashlight to make sure the piston is ok and the port is not plugged where it meets the piston.
30. Common on all models to plug here, Just scrape it out so the hole is full size again.
31. Don't worry about the small film on the inside of the port, I am talking about a very thin film that forms a wall in the exhaust port right next to the piston.
32. A 1 1/2 inch hole can be reduced to the size of a pea...... With a thin film of carbon.
33. If you can see the piston ok, it's not the problem.
34. If you are in doubt regarding your exhaust pipe being plugged, put your hand behind the muffler to see how much pressure is expelled. compare to another bike.
35. It should blow pretty good and have a distinct pop pop pop pop sound while idling, not a steady humming.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Most likely it will be the stater. And they are pricey. Coils hardly ever go bad or the only other thing that would cause a no spark problem could be the kill button. I hate to say it, but i think it will be the stater.
Need more info has the bike been out in the weather ? If it has unplug the kill switch and ignition switch try and see u get spark if u do clean one switch at s time with wd40 it will take the moster out and clean krosen out of your switches spry and work the switch on and off plug one in and see if u still get spark if u do unplug and try the other one if u dont get spark after u clean then u have a bad switch also check and clean all fuses i hope this helps u remember more info u give the more pple can help with your problem i hope this helps u
Hi, George your bike is under warranty take it to a Dealer, otherwise engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
4. For 2 strokes make sure the power valve is adjusted properly.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/major-bog-at-full-throttle.167128http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/09-wr-125-bog-performance-solved.13435Husqvarna TX 125 Owner Manualhttps://husqvarnaoutlet.com/repair_manualshttps://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Parts-Finder/15846/2019-HUSQVARNA-TE-150