Need more info has the bike been out in the weather ? If it has unplug the kill switch and ignition switch try and see u get spark if u do clean one switch at s time with wd40 it will take the moster out and clean krosen out of your switches spry and work the switch on and off plug one in and see if u still get spark if u do unplug and try the other one if u dont get spark after u clean then u have a bad switch also check and clean all fuses i hope this helps u remember more info u give the more pple can help with your problem i hope this helps u
Hi, George your bike is under warranty take it to a Dealer, otherwise engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
4. For 2 strokes make sure the power valve is adjusted properly.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/major-bog-at-full-throttle.167128http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/09-wr-125-bog-performance-solved.13435Husqvarna TX 125 Owner Manualhttps://husqvarnaoutlet.com/repair_manualshttps://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Parts-Finder/15846/2019-HUSQVARNA-TE-150
Hi, Adrian and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at the ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2013-wr300-just-stopped-sounds-like-no-spark-new-bike.29645 MX Tech Tips How to check your Stator Coil Husqvarna WR 300 Workshop Manual https://www.husqvarnaoutlet.com/parts_fiche http://mybikemanuals.com/husqvarna/husqvarna-uncategorized-owners-manuals
Hi, Alisa and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 2004 TC450 no start elec issue Husqvarna TE450 Cold Start Husqvarna TC 450 Workshop Manual https://www.husqvarnaoutlet.com/parts_fiche Husqvarna 2005 TE 450 Owner Manual
The hot start "leans" it out. As the choke does the opposite.
Think about where in the throttle range you normally ride it, and where your throttle is when it stalls. If it's stalling at an idle, oyu may be too large on your pilot , or slow jet. The air screw should be able to adjust a little here, but only if the slow jet is not too small or big. Drop one smaller on the slow jet and run it to see if it helps, read your plug to see if it's chocolate brown. You don't want white, or black. (Too lean or rich)
And then fine tune it with the air screw. If you get this good, then go to the main jet. (3/4 throttle) and see what color your plug goes there.
The needle is for the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range.(Adjusting the needle clip)
Hope this helps.
Not unless one of the other responders bought one for his Husky. I suggest you visit your local library. I believe the bike service manuals are in the 646 stacks of reference. You might also be able to find a Clymer service manual online for your bike.
Hi, Tanya, the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day http://docs.wavenetworks.us/manuals//2013%20TR%20650%20Terra-Strada%20Repair.pdf free service manual 2013 TR 650 Strada Please choose catalogue Husqvarna TR650 STRADA Owner Manual 2013 Husqvarna TR650 Strada Review Husqvarna TR650