20 Most Recent 2004 Suzuki VZ 1600 Marauder Questions & Answers

bottom plastic case left hand side near alternator regulator

WHY DO YOU WANT TO CHANGE THE WATER IN THE ENGINE?? I would undo a bottom hose when cold, drain and replace hose then refiull at the rad cap, slowly with warm water engine ticking over.

secure the bike on a jack or lifting device sufficient to get the wheel out from under the fender. remove two 8mm allen head bolts holding the rear brake caliper to its bracket. remove the 17mm headed bolt that secures the bracket to the swingarm. remove the cotterpin and axle nut and remove the axle from the l/h side. note the caliper bracket and a wheel spacer placement as they will fall as the axle is removed. Exhuast system removal or movement for ample working room may be necessary depending on system type. Reassemble in reverse order.

If you use a fender from an 04 vn1600 it will fit. Kawi made that bike.

This sounds like you may have a vacuum leak, look for something rubber that is being affected by the heat. You can spray brake cleaner (carb cleaner eats paint) and listen for RPM change. Push and pull on any hoses and rubber parts, again listening for RPM change.

carb problems, poss sticky sliders, clean and overhaul them

Most bikes require that your battery be in goo condition in order to run. They actually use the battery as part of the ignition circuit. So if your battery is completely dead it will drag your ignition circuit down.
Recommendation: Remove your battery, charge it and/or get it tested.

Secondly, if your battery checks out as being good, the only other thing I could think of it being is your charging system. That being comprised of a stator and a voltage regulator. These are semi expensive parts so, once you get past the battery check, I'd advise you to either get a manual for your bike, and some testing equipment (if your mechanically inclined), or take you bike to a reputable cycle shop and have them check it out. This way your not replacing good parts trying to track down the problem.

Good Luck.

Follow the hoses to the water pump, and pull off the bottom most hose. Pull the cap off the radiator, or the expansion tank, drain, put the hose back on, fill her up, and check it again in a couple days. My bike is a 02 and has never seen a coolant change. Hope this helps.

The gearbox IS part of the block and the oil is shared between the gearbox and crankcase, so yes, this is motor oil. That little plastic cap is the top of your oil pressure switch/sending unit and there is supposed to be a wire attached to it. This part is relatively inexpensive from the dealer and quite easy to replace.

Well if it skips then it probably can jump.....hehehe
Seriously, have you check its fuel and electrical systems? Ask your dealer for what may cause it.

It is the plug with the number 4 written on on the very bottom of the crankcase.

13.00 litres (3.43 gallons)

The carbs float is stuck open or can not close due to trash holding it open.

is it digital? sounds like a short

ebay

http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-atv-lt160em-1991-rear-brake/o/m6348sch244430

Rear brake schematic for a 1991 LT160EM I'm assuming its the one your requesting.

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.