20 Most Recent 2007 Harley Davidson FXSTC Softail Custom - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Faulty/unplugged IAC, leaky injector(s), intake leak.

High or very high? If just high leaky injectors, or if slight induction leak it can fool the O2 sensing system and adaptive fueling and make the ECM think it is lean and so giving more fuel etc. therefore it may be running a little lean and so a little faster idle or if VERY high idle check that IAC has not become dislodged/disconnected or if still connected it may be defective. Check for DTC's and go further from there.

pull out one fuse at a time till you see a change then go from there

The first thing to do is take the battery out and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to "load test" it for you. You may have a cell shorting out. If you have a volt meter, connect it the battery with the red lead to positive and the black lead to negative. Turn the switch on and press the start button. If the battery voltage drops below 10 volts, the battery is probably bad.

You need to check the charging system. To do this you need to fully charge the battery and you'll need a good Digital Volt Ohm Meter. Using the meter's function selector switch, set it to DC VOLTS with a range of 20 volts or greater. Connect the red meter lead to the positive battery post and the black meter lead to the negative battery post. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After about a minute or so, your meter should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. Any lower than 14 volts, your battery will not be charged.

If you don't have the minimum voltage at the battery in the previous test, you need to check the alternator to see if it's generating sufficient voltage. You'll have to follow the wires from your voltage regulator going to the lower left front of your engine until you come to a plug. Unplug the plug and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts in the rubber plug. This is where you are going to test the voltage from your alternator. Since you'll be testing AC voltage, it makes no difference which meter lead goes into which contact, just one lead into each contact. Set your meter's function selector switch to AC VOLTS with a 50 volt or greater range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert one meter lead into each of the metal contacts. Do not let the leads touch each other or the engine case or ground. Your meter should read at least 25 volts.

If you do not have the 25 volts from the alternator, your stator is bad and must be replaced. If you have 25 volts or more but not the 14 volt minimum at the battery, your voltage regulator is probably bad. Make sure you voltage regulator is properly grounded. Check the condition of the wire coming from the regulator going to the battery. This wire is usually larger in diameter than the other two going to the alternator.

Good Luck
Steve

Did you do anything to change the ignition timing? I know of people that would set their cars ignition timimg by ear. Some of these people must have been deaf because they would have the timing so far off the motor would turn over like it had a weak battery.
And when bikes had distributors they had a lever that worked a cable to turn the distributor so the person could kick start their bike.

Have you removed the spark plugs to see how the starter spins the motor without the plugs? Try it with the plugs out to see how it turns over freely and try it with the plugs in and wires off to see how it spins with no spark but only compression.

Check the rear brake light pressure switch. Follow the metal tube that comes out of the rear brake master cylinder going back to the rear brake. You will find a pressure switch in the line. Disconnect the wires from it and check it with an ohm meter. You may have to open the brake bleeder valve on the rear caliper to bleed any residual pressure off the rear brake system. If the light goes out then, you may have a problem with the rear brake master cylinder or the brake hose not allowing all the pressure to bleed off the brake when released. I've seen a bad brake hose do this as well. This is usually the result of damage done while servicing the rear brake. The inside part of the flexible brake hose comes loose from the outer protective jacket. The inner part becomes restricted in such a manner that the high pressure fluid is forced past the restriction when the brake is applied but it will not allow the low pressure fluid to flow back due to the restriction. The result is a low pressure remains on the rear brake making the brake pads run hot and the rear brake light to stay on.

Good Luck
Steve

Your bike may differ a bit but this is how to check your charging system.


You need to check the charging system. To do this you need to fully charge the battery and you'll need a good Digital Volt Ohm Meter. Using the meter's function selector switch, set it to DC VOLTS with a range of 20 volts or greater. Connect the red meter lead to the positive battery post and the black meter lead to the negative battery post. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After about a minute or so, your meter should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. Any lower than 14 volts, your battery will not be charged.

If you don't have the minimum voltage at the battery in the previous test, you need to check the alternator to see if it's generating sufficient voltage. You'll have to follow the wires from your voltage regulator going to the lower left front of your engine until you come to a plug. Unplug the plug and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts in the rubber plug. This is where you are going to test the voltage from your alternator. Since you'll be testing AC voltage, it makes no difference which meter lead goes into which contact, just one lead into each contact. Set your meter's function selector switch to AC VOLTS with a 50 volt or greater range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert one meter lead into each of the metal contacts. Do not let the leads touch each other or the engine case or ground. Your meter should read at least 25 volts.

If you do not have the 25 volts from the alternator, your stator is bad and must be replaced. If you have 25 volts or more but not the 14 volt minimum at the battery, your voltage regulator is probably bad. Make sure you voltage regulator is properly grounded. Check the condition of the wire coming from the regulator going to the battery. This wire is usually larger in diameter than the other two going to the alternator.

Good Luck
Steve

I wished I could answer this question but I'm not familiar with any Jesse James Customs. Usually the fuses on a Harley are located under the seat or on an electrical panel depending on the year and model of the bike. The best suggestion I can give you is to look for the wiring harness. Wherever it's the largest is the center of the electrics and the most likely place for a fuse.

Good Luck
Steve

yes it could be the coil pack but it could be the carburetor, the exhaust, or a lot of other things. A motorcycle power plant is a finely tuned system. If you change one thing, it effects another. The system can be effectively changed but it's not simply a take it out of the box and put it on type thing. How is your carb jetted? The slow speed jet is probably going to need to be a 29.5 with the main jet a #70 or 72. This depends on what other changes that have been made to the engine and where you live, altitude and such. You can test the primary resistance of the coil with an Ohm Meter. The primary resistance should be between 2 and 3 ohms.

Good Luck
steve

TSM/TSSM module maybe. And, check the fuses with them pulled out of the circuit. Just because they look good doesn't mean they are.

You didn't say what model bike you're working on. If the fork lock is the one like on the Ultras and has the big knob at the top of the steering stem, you need a special tool to align the parts of the switch. This is probably why it's installed incorrectly. I've never messed with one of these locks for that very reason. I do not have the tool nor the experience to tell you how it's done. I think Jim's makes the tool.

Good Luck
Steve

Usually this is caused by a bit of trash hung in the needle and seat of carburetor. You must take the four screws that hold the float bowl on and remove the float bowl. Then, carefully drift out the float pin and remove the float and the needle. Blow out the seat and clean the needle. Reassemble the carb.

Good Luck
Steve

You're welcome to look around but I doubt you're going to find a free manual online. Harley-Davidson is very protective of their copyrighted material. However, I have heard people say that they have found information online before.

Good Luck
Steve

You have to remove the front wheel, front brakes, front fender, and loosen the clamp bolt on the lower triple tree. Take the large nut off the top of the fork tube and slide the entire assembly out. Turn it upside down and let the oil drain out and take the spring out. Look on the bottom of the slider where the axle goes and you'll see a socket head bolt. It takes an 8mm allen wrench. I usually use a special allen wrench socket and an air wrench to get the bolt out. It is designed to use a "piloted hex key" but you can get it out if you use a NEW allen wrench. It is very shallow and will round out if you're not careful. Once the bolt is out, the slider comes right off the fork tube.

Good Luck
Steve

A website called Motorcycleid.com that offers a variety of parts and accessories for your Harley Davidson, including battery mounts and hardware. I couldn't find the exact size of the bolt that fits the battery box on your 2005 Harley Davidson Lierider. However, you can try contacting Harley Davidson's customer service at 1-800-258-2464 and ask them for the bolt size . They may be able to help you locate the bolt or suggest an alternative

Put key in on position for ten min......then try it

It will be printed on the back of the watch or better still, look on the old battery.