2007 Chevrolet Colorado (Extended Cab) New Cars - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Here you go Hope this helps

1. Tighten the NEW cylinder head bolts in the following sequence: Tighten
   • Tighten the cylinder head bolts?(1-10) in sequence to 30?Y (22?lb?ft). Use the J 45059 to rotate the cylinder head bolts?(1-10) in sequence an additional 155?degrees.
   • Tighten the (2?short) end bolts?(12-13) to 7?Y (62?lb?in). Use the J 45059 to rotate the short cylinder head end bolts?(12-13) an additional 60?degrees.
   • Tighten the (1?long) end bolt?(11) to 7?Y (62?lb?in). Use the J 45059 to rotate the long cylinder head end bolt?(11) an additional 120?degrees.

First I would check for a stopped up fuel filter or just replace the filter. When you remove the fuel filter, look at the fuel that comes out and see if there are beads of water in the fuel. If the filter is ok and no water is in the fuel, you need to check the fuel pressure. Some Auto Parts stores will lend you a fuel pressure test kit. Throttle Body pressure is around 18 to 24 psi. For port tuned injection 40.5 psi to46 psi. Depending on the type of fuel injection you have, if this pressure is there, turn the ignition switch off and see if the pressure remains at the pressure you had with the ignition switch on. The pressure may slightly drop lower and then slowly drop off 3 to 5 psi after 3 or 4 Minutes but not back to zero or near zero in a short period of time. If the pressure is 10 or 15 psi lower then stated above, you may have a fuel pump check valve in the fuel tank that has stuck in the open position, or the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad and leaking. If the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad usually the fuel mileage has dropped off, and black smoke would have been coming out the tail pipe, the engine would have been idling rough.

I replaced my computer at 53,000 miles and it starts up OK now with an occasional issue with starting like it has crud in the line or something, but the resetting the key after a miss does require the 15 minute wait. Had to do it once since the computer was replaced, but the issue before was the anti-theft system would shut it down after starting every time requiring a tow truck to get it to the shop. $700 for the computer chip replacement.

TPM THAT MEANS TEMPOMAT CRUISE CONTROL.CHECK TO SEE IF BRAKE LIGHTS WORK.IF NO CHECK BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH FUSE. IF FUSE OKAY BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH FAULTY OR YOU HAVE OPEN WIRE FROM BRAKE SWITCH TO FUSE BOX.SEE YOUR BRAKE SWITCH DEACTIVATES THE CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM.PROBLEMS WITH BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH WILL SET OFF CRUISE CONTROL WARNING LIGHT.IF BRAKE SWITCH OKAY.THE DEALERSHIP HAS TO DIAGNOSIS AND FIX PROBLEM.

If the security light is on, the problem is with the Vehicle AntiTheft system. The key with the chip is not being read in the ignition cylinder. Therefore the computer doesn't allow it to be restarted for 10 minutes.

gauge is worn out. its the little motor behind the gauge needs replaced its called a stepper motor.. can be found on ebay motors.

Could be lots of things but maybe a vacuum leak.

Starter or starter cylinoid would be were I would start what does it do when you try and start it

I have an 07 colorado and had this very same problem. Ocassionally i would hop in the truck and stick my key in...it would turn over but not crank. I read numerous threads that is was my crankshaft position sensor....like you i would wait ten minute and it would crank right up. After i replaced the sensor, 2 weeks later it did it again. Read more threads...got a brand new key and took off all of my keys to reduce weight on the ignition cylinder. 2 weeks later it did it again. Finally I figured out that all of those threads were wrong. My passlock light was flashing during those 10 minutes of waiting for one reason!!! My positive battery cable had corrosion on it. Even a little corrosion on your terminal will trick the passlock sensor into thinking the truck is being hacked and will not crank. Take it from me, clean the **** out of your terminal wire the proper wire brush and neutralizer, then coat the terminal and cable connection with a pile of either bearing grease or diode (red) grease to help prevent future corrosion. 4 months later i still havent had the problem come back, and I had it happen over 6 times in two months. Try it and see.

Yes there is, go to this link for info and solutions.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Shift solenoids need to be looked into.

Someone will need to figure out if you are lacking spark to the plugs or fuel to the injectors when it won't start.

Common on Chevy products, known as key in circuit failure, what it means even if you take out the key the ignition remains on and drains the battery

check and see if you have 12 volts at light socket board, possible blown fuse or backup lamp switch bad

Have your charging system tested and include the Battery. Go to Autozone.com ,register your vehicle for free, get free wiring diagrams and Fusebox layouts. Have a starter draw test done.Check the relays for the fuelpump, ignition, and PCM. Sometimes the horn relay can be the same part number and be interchanged.What you are describing can be many things. You have more compression in a hot engine, you have different timing in a hot engine because vehicles run so lean today. The O2 sensors may be keeping the engine too lean to restart after a warmup. Relays can overload when hot and kick out the connections. Your fuelpump can be failing.You did not indicate how far you drive when this happens. If you are driving 10 miles a weak battery will not recharge, but a 100 mile trip gives it more opportunity. The starter draw test will tell if the starter is bad. The starter may cool down overnight, but frequent restarts may heat the starter with it failing.

fuel pump turn the key one and listen if you can hear it come on if not its your fuel pump

get a test lite and pull ur relay out and test it if its not lighting up then check your fuel pump

No.Because the tire pressure monitor is looking for a frequency from the sensors and does not see it.There for the light will stay on constantly.If you have a light that is constantly on and the tire pressures are all fine.Then you need to relearn the tire pressure monitor to make the light go off.Unless you have a bad sensor.There is a special tool for relearning the tire pressure monitor.It also has to be put in learn mode to perform this.Which is done with your keyless entry fob or in your case you apply the parking brake turn the key on and turn the light switch from off to park 4 times within 4 seconds.The horn will chirp twice.this means the system is in learn mode.This is where the special tool comes in.you need to go to a repair shop that has a tool for relearning.If the sensors are all good the light will go off.Hope this has helped.Good luck.

Your speedometer is controlled by your computer network. The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) sends a signal to the Body Control Module (BCM) which then relays the speed sensor data via the UART data lines to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC). To find out why your speedometer is not functioning, you must FIRST scan your ENTIRE computer network for possible fault codes. It is possible that either the VSS is defective or the BCM is not able to relay the information due to a communications fault, or the BCM is relaying the information and the IPC is unable to receive the information due to a communications fault, or the IPC itself is defective. Wiring diagrams will be of no use until you determine which parts of the network is receiving the information from the VSS and which parts are not. This will require the use of a scan tool that can not only read generic OBD fault codes, but also access and display codes and live data from the BCM, PCM and IPC.