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If it really is hooked up to cold water under sink, just turn off the supply valve, disconnect the line and cap it off (hardware stores have brass cap off caps for hose lines) and done. PS: most ice makers/water dispensers have a water valve inside the fridge that are similar to washing machines and they fail because debris gets in them. I use an inline filter to prevent this.
there is a inline mesh filter at the tap end of the hose but it is more that likely that the tap washer need replacing
it is possible that the inlet solenoid valve is not operating properly
if you have separate hot and cold water hoses and taps then either tap should produce a full flow when set if no taps get a full slow when selected , indicates a problem power board
That's easy to tell- if it has 2 inlet pipe/hose connections at the back (as opposed to the outlet pipe which is permanently connected to the washer and hooks over the outlet drain) then it is a hot and cold fill. If there is only one inlet pipe it is cold fill only. Either type HAS to have a cold fill supply- to lower the temperature of the hot water for cool washes AND for rinsing which is normally cold water only.
If you have only a cold water tap/fawcet available for the washer and it is a hot and cold fill you will need to purchase, from a hardware (?) store, a 'Y' adapter. Upside down the single end (internal thread) screws into the cold water supply and the hot and cold washer pipes screw into the double end (external threads). The washer is fooled into thinking it has hot and cold! When it expects hot, it opens its hot valve but instead gets the cold water and has to heat it up. It will therefore take longer for the machine to do the washing. When it wants cold for rinses, it opens its cold valve and gets the same water! Simple ;-0)
If it is doing it with absolutely no power to the machine i.e. unplugged, then it still has to be a water valve letting water in and not closed/seated correctly. If it only happens when there is power supplied to the washer then it is likely to be the control board not feeding the correct voltage to whichever valve it is (turn either the hot or cold off at the tap/fawcet to determine which it is).
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
This is symptomatic of a malfunctioning (not closing properly) water control valve- the hot water one, if the washer is hot and cold fill, and the cold one if it is just cold fill!
Check which one, if your's is hot and cold, by turning one of the taps(fawcets?) off and observing what happens.
Sorry but whichever it is needs replacing and a service call ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
This is symptomatic of a malfunctioning water control valve- the hot or cold water one if the washer is hot and cold fill, and the cold one if it is just cold fill!
If yours is hot and cold fill discover which one by turning one of the feed taps/fawcets off and if the water stops, it's that one!
Sorry but it needs replacing and a service call ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
You can use a water hammer arrestor and hook it up to old washing machine hot valve by use of a standard washer hose. This type of aresstor is basically. a shock absorber. You will needtonget pipe adapters to go from hose thread to pipe thread.If you can mount the hammer arressror higher then the washer valve. Hook everything up and turn old hot water valve back on. This shoulg take care of your problem. Thank you.
it is called hydraulic hammer nd meant that you have very good pressure in your lanes, if it start suddenly, this meant that your air chamber lost it's air, in that case simplest solution will be as follows:
1. close the mains, 2. open all taps (fawcets) and drain all water from the system, 3. close all taps (fawcets) 4. open mains and check if hammer is still present.
if hammer is still present, that meant you need to clean your airchamber, you need to find where it is lockated, follow steps 1 and 2, open airchamber, check if any debris inside and clean, re-seal the chamber, then follow steps 3 and 4.
if hammer was always, this meant that you do not even have airchamber. you can install one easy for yourself, just purchase one, and best place for it is on the end of the line, somehere close to most offending faucet.
if you find this advice helpfu, please do not hesitate leave your remark and give me your vote, thanx!
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