Blower motor not working for heat and air conditioner. need fuse locations and wiring color code to trace circuit

There are several possible reasons why your blower, vent, defrost, AC, and heater might stop blowing air:

1. Blower Motor Failure: The blower motor is responsible for blowing the air through the vents. If the blower motor fails, you will not get any airflow from the vents.
2. Blower Motor Resistor Failure: The blower motor resistor controls the speed of the blower motor. If the resistor fails, the blower motor may stop working or only work at one speed.
3. Fuse or Relay Failure: A blown fuse or faulty relay in the blower motor circuit can prevent the blower motor from working.
4. Control Module Failure: The HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) control module is responsible for controlling the blower motor and other components. If the control module fails, it can prevent the blower motor from working.
5. Vacuum Leak: If your vehicle uses a vacuum system to control the vents, a vacuum leak can prevent the system from working properly.
6. Broken Blend Door: The blend door controls the direction of the airflow. If the blend door breaks or gets stuck, the air may not flow through the correct vents.
7. Wiring or Connector Issues: Faulty wiring or connectors in the blower motor circuit can prevent the blower motor from working.

start by checking fuse. if fuse is good, aquire a test light, check the test light on the battery to make sure the test light works. Power to ground = light. access blower motor under pass-side dash panel.(probablly have to remove underdash cover, secured with pop-in style fasteners.) locate blower motor. 2 wires w/connector Purple-power, black-ground. check for power at purple w/test light on known good ground, with ign on, and blower switch on high. if it has power, hook clip of test light to a power source, ( + on battery w a jumper wire) and probe black wire, with test light. if no light, jumper that wire to a good ground. if it lights, you have a bad b-motor. if no light on power side of blower motor, and fuse is good, check power to swith. blower circuit may have 2 fuses. 1 for high and a 2nd for the lower speeds. if switch has power to it, and power is transfered to another wire when switched, suspect the blower motor resistor. James White, White Automotive, Hopkins Mo. ASE tech, 17 yrs exp.

Do you have power and ground at the motor ?
If not, you would need to get a wiring diagram to trace the circuit back to the source. You did not mention the blower switch on the dash.
I am assuming you mean the blower motor is not running, or do you mean the motor is running but no air is coming out of the vents ?

Since you have replaced the stepped speed control resistor, the problem is probably due to a corroded connector or fuse holder.I'd check the fuse holder first, then do the possibly annoying tracing of wiring to locate a connector which may be heat- or corrosion damaged.
Finding the right color codes to follow and make locating connectors is much easier (not easy, just easier) with a manual and I like Haynes. We have three different and keep them in the vehicles to which they belong.

Replace the blower motor resistor assembly. To locate the electrical connector for the blower motor resister, it is usually attached to a heating or air conditioning Duct, or the blower motor case. You can also trace the Purple Wire from the blower motor back to the resister. Also make sure that the blower fan is not jamed up with somthing in side and will spin freely,or binding same thing, this will also cause the fuse to blow right away. And does the motor actually spin a bit before it blows the fuse or does it blow the fuse at the same time the switch is turned on? Good Luck and have a good XMASS.

1. Check the air conditioner fuse and replace as necessary.
2. Air conditioner system discharged. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak tested by an MVAC certified technician, utilizing approved recovery/recycling equipment. Repair as necessary.
3. Air conditioner low pressure switch defective. Replace switch.
4. Air conditioner fan resistor pack defective. Replace resistor pack.
5. Loose connection, broken wiring or defective air conditioner relay in air conditioning electrical circuit. Repair wiring or replace relay as necessary.

You'll have to find the correct wiring diagram in order to trace down the fault in your system.. Once you obtain the wiring diagram you'll be able to see what else beside wire is between the #4 speed setting and the blower motor. My guess is you might find a high speed fan relay is triggered from the #4 fan switch setting, applying full battery voltage to the blower motor. If locating the appropriate diagram proves to be difficult you can try looking around the underhood and passenger compartment fuse panel to find a relay. Keep in mind not all relays are always in fuse boxes which makes the diagram important.

this aint much of a solution sorry it going to be a wire short you will have to trace each wire through the harness its a pain in the but good luck

It sounds to me like an 'intermittently open circuit', or in plain language, when some part of the heater's circuit heats up a connection somewhere in the circuit 'opens up' stopping the flow of electricity. Then (10 minutes later?) when the circuit cools again the connection 'closes' again until warm. I would trace all the wires in that circuit from the fuse box to the blower motor (including fuse box & fuse) and look for broken or cracked insulation; make sure all connections are tight; I'd certainly check the heater's 'setting' switch (off,high, low switch) on the dash. It could also be a fusible link. This is a piece of wire somewhere in the circuit that 'feels' different than the other wire, more 'rubbery' and not as stiff. It's actually a little thinner wire inside than the rest of the circuit made to burn cleanly through (acting as a type of fuse) rather than over heating the circuit itself The problem has to be in this circuit, and something that 'opens' when heated. Good luck!