Re: 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 auto idles good but will...
4.0L
what transmission, mines a 5 speed stick so?????
idles good, well that dont take much.
will only move, car moves?
with what wide open ,the throttle?
well just barely throttle is normal, why say that?
my guess is car has low power, or can not go fast in all gears.
is that it?
if yes, that is transmission slip or a weak engine,
transmission slip is easy RPM goes way high car dont move
weak engine acts like brakes stuck on , low RPM deep right foot.
post all symptoms and win, big time.
under the vehicle...mounted close to the front of the fuel tank...be sure to release the fuel pressure before you disconnect any line..you can do that by removing the fuel pump relay and cranking the engine
C1 & C2 in your panel are most likely one of the culprits, if no power at heater at seat. Sounds like testing for power at seat switch is easier to do than get at these circuit breakers in the panel. If you have power at switch at seat, then it's not the fuse/circuit breaker. Good reading at this link for you.
If you have the owner's manual look up fuses in the index, good illustration. If you don't, I do. It shows a relay and a 15 amp fuse. Look at the passenger kick panel, pull the cover, and it is #2 fuse (second from the top on the left) The see the relay you may have to pull the panel (two screws and a clip) the relay is the third cavity down, third row from the firewal side.
Let me know if this works for you?
Hello and welcome to FixYa The interior lights wont turn off cant because it can't get a conncetion definitely a headlight switch issue common problem for that make Part # 05137535AA Headlight Switch Probably a dealer item very simple to change this yourself. Hope this gets you going.Please Rate Me. And you can always Ask Me.
Place the transfer case in low range. Pry the shift indicator bezel out of the console using a trim stick.
Apply the parking brake and place the transfer case in neutral. Remove the parking brake trim insert. Remove the console attaching screws. Lift the console up and disconnect the 4WD indicator lamp hamess. Remove the console.
Remove the passenger side knee blocker. Remove the single end screw. Remove the screws below the glove box. Remove the screw at the courtesy lamp. Remove the ash receiver and the screws behind it. Remove the instrument panel armature screw behind the ash receiver. Open the glove box and remove the screws behind it. Lower the panel and disconnect the lamp harnesses. For additional instrument panel service procedures to complete steps 6 thru 25, refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/ Instrument Cluster / Carrier/ Service and Repair/ Procedures. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators\Instrument Cluster / Carrier\Service and Repair
Remove the pod switch bezels on both sides of the steering column with a trim stick.
Remove the drive side knee blocker. Remove the end screw and screws located at the bottom of the knee blocker.
Remove the cowl top trim panel by prying it up with a trim stick. Remove the solar sensor if equipped.
Remove the "A" post trim panels.
Remove the remove the bolts that attach the lower instrument panel reinforcement to the instrument panel armature and remove the reinforcement.
Disconnect the park lamp switch.
Pull back the carpet at the transmission tunnel from the base of the instrument panel center bezel. Remove the nuts from the upper studs and bolts through the floor that secure the instrument panel center bracket.
Remove the bolts that secure the instrument panel center bracket to the drivers side of the transmission tunnel.
Remove the screws securing the Vehicle Information Center and remove it. Remove the screw fastening the mounting bracket.
Unplug the vacuum harness connector or vent tube on ATC equipped vehicles and the wire harness located under the passenger side of the instrument panel.
Remove the screws holding the passenger side kick panel, along with the screw from the kick panel shroud.
Unplug the antenna cable near the right cowl side panel.
Unplug the instrument panel wire harness connectors from the junction block at the right cowl side panel.
Remove the bolts that secure the instrument panel armature to the windshield fence.
Remove the nuts that secure the top if the instrument panel armature to the windshield fence.
Remove the bolts that secure the ends of the instrument panel to the cowl side panel.
Remove the nuts that secure the steering column to the brake pedal support and lower the steering column.
Remove the bolts that secure the instrument panel armature to the brake pedal support.
Place a protective cover on the seats. Lift the instrument panel off the windshield fence studs and maneuver the instrument panel out and lower it onto the seats.
Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the evaporator tubes. Make sure to install plugs or tape the ends of the lines and fittings to ensure that excessive amounts of moisture do not contaminate the A/C system.
Remove the vacuum line at the tee from the main vacuum supply harness. This line runs through the body with the upper refrigerant line.
Remove the Powertrain Control Module with connectors intact and set aside.
Remove the heater A/C housing mounting nuts from the studs on the engine compartment side of the dash.
Remove the heater A/C housing from the vehicle.
To Install the components, reverse the procedure stated above. Torque Specifications: Instrument panel center bracket to floor transmission tunnel fastener: 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.) Instrument panel to windshield fence bolts and nuts: 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.) Instrument panel to cowl side inner panel bolts: 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.) Instrument panel to steering column support bolts: 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.)
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you need to check all sensor connections as the crank shaft sensor also will mess up your idle....try slightly unscrewing the tps and push it up or down slightly to see if this fixes the problem.
I would check the voltage on the throttle portion sensor with the engine off from idle to wide open throttle.If there are any dead spots, replace the sensor. If the tps checks out, you should check fuel pressure. If you have good fuel pressure, you may want to make sure there isn't a lot of slack in your timing chain. I don't believe you mentioned the mileage of your vehicle. Best of luck.
what engine.
hot or cold engine , or both?
does the cut out catch up.?
does it have full engine power up a hill wide open throttle. (key test)
on cuts, out tip-in throttle ?
dash CEL lamp off running.
scan PCM , no DTCs stored? (errors)
ever do the 60k mile tune up , (sparks and filters?)
i have 10 more quesitons, id see in 5min testing car. but .... here are some.
Two things I would check is how dirty the throttle body is and the egr valve. When the truck is idling the throttle body is barely cracked open and a ton of dirt on the butterfly can block some air from getting in causing it not to idle. just google cleaning throttle body. I would also check with the dealer and see if your jeep has an egr valve, Im sure it needs to be replaced and would cause the Jeep not to idle correctly.
You need to check ...was the computer swapped from one to the other?
Was there any componenet changes on the engine such as old one had a/c this one don't?Is the TPS(throttle positioning switch) plugged in...all the fuses checked ok...look under the hood at the fuse tray and test them all with a test lite, something obviously computerized is not reading info to the ECM(computer).
Scan for codes once you get the idle down.The engine light must be lit?? Put your scanner in and see what you have onboard for codes.
Good luck!!
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