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When I am driving the car horn blows, without me blowing the horn, it comes and goes. Sometimes the horn blows continuously until I blow the horn to cut into the blowing, then it stuos but start back again.
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Here is an idea, when do you blow the fuse key on, key on engine running, key on engine running hitting the break pedal? Try and get the key on without blowing fuse if possible, then one at a time try those circuit loads ie: horn, brake pedal and so on, if you isolate which load is pulling to many amps(blowing fuse) unplug that load itself, then restart testing, see if fuse stays ok. You can also substitue the fuse with a circuit breaker and unplug each load until click(of breaker) stops.
I would trace the wire from the horn and see if it was inadvertently damaged when the alternator was installed. If you have a voltmeter, you can remove the horn fuse and check to see if there is continuity between the horn (non hot side) of the fuse and the car body. This would indicate a short in the wire running from the fuse box to the horn. You can also look around the alternator mounting area to see if any wires are being pinched. Hope this helps. Good luck!
1. Check engine lights come on for numerous reasons ranging from a bad CO2 sensor to the Catalytic Convertor being bad...a garage has the computer and the codes to tell you what is wrong, rough running, again, cold be numerous problems, fuel filter bad, worn plugs, broken plug wire/s. Sometimes, the reason the light comes on doesn't hurt the engine at all, and sometimes it means you NEED to get it looked at right now!
2. Horn could, and probably did have a short circuit somewhere, but really how often do you use a horn?
3. One more time, numerous reasons why the ABS indicator is on.
Without the vehicle being right in front of a person, especailly when three troubles are listed it's very-very hard, if not impossible, to make a good call.
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