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Posted on Dec 29, 2009
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Fix hardwood flooring replace damaged hardwood flooring wood planks

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CJ Rock

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  • Master 4,429 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 30, 2019
CJ Rock
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Kate Brownell

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  • Posted on Jan 21, 2019
Kate Brownell
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When your hardwood floor is in good shape and there are only one or two damaged spots, it is easy and economical to make small repairs by replacing a strip or plank of Hardwood floor refinishing. You can also fix distorted areas of flooring and try to avoid refinish your floors completely.

Most floors utilize a tongue-and-score plan for associating contiguous strips. This structure makes supplanting a solitary strip or board testing, however not feasible. In the first place, search for any nails in the damaged board and drive them as far through the board as conceivable by utilizing a sledge and nail set. Carpenters use nail sets to drive nails flush with trim without harming the trim with a mallet. After you've cleared the nails, it's an ideal opportunity to evacuate the harmed board and introduce another one.

The steps are: Utilize a carpenter's square to stamp an opposite line over the segment of the board to be expelled.

In case you're expelling the whole strip, avoid this progression.

Utilize a 1/2-or 3/8-inch-measurement spade bit and power bore to bore gaps along the imprints.
Utilize a wood etch to part the harmed board into two pieces.

Doing as such makes expulsion less demanding.

Pry out the spoiled board.

If you remove a strip from the center you can pry the rest of the pieces from the contiguous barricades previously prying them. Expel any extra sheets a similar way yet cut them so the end joints are amazed.
Square up the bored closures with a sharp wood etch, and utilize a nail puller to evacuate any uncovered nails or drive them in off the beaten path with a nail set.

You need the finishes of the great areas smooth and square for simpler establishment.
Slice a substitution strip to indistinguishable length from the one you expelled. Remove the base side of the depression on the board.

Expelling the base score empowers you to introduce a board between two others by embeddings its tongue side first and after that bringing down its furrow side into place. In the event that you don't expel it, you won't have the capacity to get the board past the tongue of the neighboring board.
Test-fit the strip to ensure it fits.

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Jim Thurston

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  • Master 672 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 29, 2009
Jim Thurston
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During the whole process be aware of the edges of the flooring that is going to stay. First prepare the area for dust control. Mark the boards to be replaced. With a flat wood bit in your drill, bore a hole near, but not at both ends of the pieces being replaced. Bore only to the sub-floor. Set your circular saw to cut thru the flooring but barely touch the sub-floor beneath. Make two passes with the saw about 1/2" in from each edge. Lift out the center of the piece being removed. With a sharp chisel split the small end pieces at each saw cut and remove. With a chisel, tap the groove side of the piece toward the middle and remove. There may be a little chisel work to get it out. There will be a bit more chisel work on the tongue side. Chisel the tongue side until the fasteners are located and remove them. Remove the piece completely and remove any paper between the flooring and the sub-floor. Vacuum the area to prepare for the new board. Lay the new piece next to the opening and mark the length. If this is end match, t&g at teh ends cut the ends square. I mark heavily and leave my mark when I cut. It can be cut again if it is too long. Choice here are, cut the bottom of the groove and or the tongue off the new board. I leave the tongue and hook the piece in place. Easier to remove it though. Back cut the length on a table saw, being careful not to reduce the size of the face. This will make the bottom of the board narrower than the face. A sander can be used if no table saw is available. Once sized put glue on the sub-floor and put in the replacement piece. If the tongue was left, it must be tapped sideways to get to the point where it will drop in. Do not hit the wood directly. Used a scrap piece as convincer. When lined up, use a scrap piece of wood to drive the new piece down into place. The new board will be thicker and will need sanding. Congrats.

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How do I fix a squeak in a hardwood floor

squeeks in a hardwood floor most times are caused by the hardwood separating from the underlayment (board) and hence it piviots on a nail and you got a squeak !! , there are a few ways to fix this "

if the squeak is located in a spot that is accessible from under the floor , see if you can determine what hardwood and underlayment thickness is , look around behind a floor casement or around a doorway trim with flashlight , find a wood screw that is 1/8 less than this number (two added together ) also locate a drill that is just size of screw shaft you found , drill hole from under the floor (underlayment) just deep enough to penetrate the underlayment (3/4 inch or so) use tape on bit as a gauge , don't drill into hard wood then drive wood screw into hole , the idea is that screw will pull hardwood down to underlayment , screw cant grip underlayment due to hole so this is piviot point . a shot of wood glue on screw threads helps it from coming out too !!


now if space under squeak isn't accessible this is a bit harder but not impossible to do , there are a few special items to get first , one is a glue injector needle !! this typically is used making wood furniture but I have seen a meat basting syringe used in a pinch too, locate the spot close to squeak from top , using a small drill dril down at seam (not in middle of board) just deep enough to hardwood Not underlayment , load up your syringe with wood glue and force it down into hole with needle takes some force to do this , wipe off spilled glue and set a heavy object on this spot for 24 hrs object can be a lg pile of books or I use cement blocks (4) set on a piece of butcher paper (not cardboard) after 24 hr remove blocks and ck for squeak if none use hard setting tinted wood filler to plug hole you made and top off with a dot of varnish to seal it when dry and flat if you still detect the squeak then move over a board or two and repeat process till squeak is gone
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Additionally on the market is a vinyl carpet tile...carpet on top....vinyl on the bottom...with a thin dense done inbetween
This is a very popular choice due to the ease of installation...using a peel and stick glue. It allows you to adhere the carpet tile to the floor and if future stains or issues arise you can take the carpet tile up and replace it. Very comfortable under foot....used on many commercial applications and now available at retail outlets like LOWES and home depot

Search the web for carpet tile...and releaseable adhesive for carpet tile.

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