I checked pump and hoses for being pluged and they are clear
Sounds like the pump quit working
SOURCE: LTF2140E Front loader washer
My Frigidaire front loader washer model LTF2140E doesnt want to drain the water when set to wash (heavy-normal-quick selectors). It washes put thats it. I have to switch the selector to drain/spin then rinse/spin cycle to finish the load. I checked the drain hose for any clogs....everything is clear. Any suggestions? Also,iIs
their any reset buttons for this type of washer?
SOURCE: Maytag Epic not draining.
i had the same problem a couple months ago---i couldnt figure out why it wasnt draining. It kept saying "F-21"...well i called a "expert" and all it was was the lent trap inside needed cleaning....which isnt in the manual.....it is located in the back---truthfully im not sure where.....you have to remove a bolt and some screws and pull off the back and then clean it......hopefully some of this helped you...
SOURCE: how to install lid switch
The symptom of a washer that fills normally, but stops suddenly and will not drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction.
The following link explains how to install a lid switch:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch
If this is just a matter of reinstalling a switch that has come loose, a new switch may not be required. Inspect to ensure the mounting screws, switch casing, or switch lever are not broken. Make sure the mounting screws are tight. NOTE: You do not have to drain the washer to replace the lid switch. With the switch replaced, the washer will drain on its own. This will save anyone the trouble of having to bail. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps.
SOURCE: will drain but wont spin
I just had exactly the same problem. It turns out that the washer thought it was "continuously out of balance" because the inertial unbalance switch was not working properly. The way I fixed it was:
1. I followed the instructions to disassemble the Neptune washer found here: http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm and then in the control panel on top I found actually a very useful document stored in the control panel itself. It is called "Schematic Mini-manual LED Washer" and it contains a set of schematics for the electrical system and an explanation on how to run various diagnostics on the washer. This was incredibly helpful.
2. I checked the diagnostic code using the following procedure:
a. Plug the washer in for power.
b. Put the washer into "Service Mode" by holding the "Delicates" and "Heavy soil" keys simultaneously for 3 or more seconds. My washer showed a "00" on the screen when it was in Service Mode.
c. Pushed "Presoak" to put it in diagnostic code mode.
d. Pushed the down arrow key to read out the last diagnostic code. In my case the most recent diagnostic code was a "05", which the mini-manual says means "Continuous unbalanced circuit". In fact the mini-manual also says to "Check for: Faulty unbalance switches, Loose wire connections, Bad control board".
e. To find out how many cycles ago this happened, you can push the "Cotton/sturdy" button and it will tell you how many cycles ago this happened. I can't remember the response of my washer, but it either showed a "00" or "01".
To double check the diagnostic code, I
a. Cleared the list of diagnostic codes by holding the "Heavy soil" and "Presoak" buttons for 3 seconds while in the "Diagnostic code" mode;
b. Put the washer door back on and screwed it in without putting the entire front back on the washer.
c. Pushed the "off" button or unplug the washer and plug it back in to get it out of "Service mode".
c. Ran just the spin cycle, where it counted down to 7 and then was perfectly silent and then displayed a "00" without really trying to spin.
Double checking the diagnostic code probably wasnt' really needed, but I thought I would try it just to make sure. I did receive the "05" diagnostic code again.
3. With the washer unplugged again, I did the following to check that the switches were the problem, I checked the resistance of the circuit that has the following three switches in it: the inertial unbalance switch, the low tub displacement switch, and the upper tub displacement switch. If the circuit has effectively "0" Ohms of resistance, the switches are good. If you effectively have "infinite" resistance, then one of the switches is bad.
The mini-manual shows you where the switches are physically on the washer. The easiest way to check this is to find a connector that connects the three switches to the control panel. I found this by lifting the top panel of the washer up all of the way so I could access the top of the washer's tub. Based on the schematic from the mini-manual, the in-line connector has four wires. One side you will find a red wire with the number "23" on it and an orange wire with the number "40" on it. The other half of the connector has two blue wires connected to it, one with the number "23" on it and one with the number "40" on it. In my washer, this connector was placed on top of the washer toward the back.
To test to see if one of the switches is not working:
a. Disconnect the inline connector described above.
b. Test the resistance between the two terminals on the side of the connector having the two blue wires. I found that when I did this I had infinite resistance, so want of the switches was stuck open, indicating the "unbalanced " condition.
To find which switch was at fault, I disconnected each switch from the circuit and tested each one individually. The one that was easiest to get to was the lower tub displacement switch, which is in the front on the bottom of the washer's tub. It worked fine (0 Ohms resistance normally and infinite resistance when you push the button). The next I tried was the inertial unbalance switch, which is placed on the top, right, front of the tub just underneath the block of concrete that is mounted on the tub. For convenience, I removed the concrete block so I could easily access and remove the switch.
This was the switch with the problem (it was effectively stuck open or infinite resistance). It seems to have some rod of metal in it that moves back and forth with the washers motion, so I just shook it vigorously and you could hear the rod of metal move back and forth. This seemed to free up the switch mechanism and the switch functioned again (showed "0" ohms when it was held in about the same position as it would be on the washer). I put the switch back in place and checked the connector with the blue wires leading to all three switches as before. This time I received effectively "0" Ohms, meaning that the problem was fixed.
4. At this point, I put everything back together again (concrete block, reconnected the in-line connector to the switches, and reversed the procedure found in http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm ).
Once everything was back together again, I tested just a "spin" cycle and everything worked. You could also test this before putting things back together (probably a good idea) by temporarily putting the door on properly and trying a "spin" cycle.
Another thing to note, you could actually check the diagnostic codes and run several of the tests without taking the entire washer apart. Basically, all you need to do is get the mini-manual out of the control panel (I there are 6 screws total I took off) and run the tests before opening the rest of the washer.
In the end, it might be good to clean or lubricate the inertial unbalance switch or replace it since it will probably stick again. Unfortunately, I am not sure how it is built, so I am not sure what the best way to clean or lubricate it is. Just shaking it for the moment did the trick.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Maytag MAV4057AWW top load washer will not spin
I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old
man who has been making his own repairs for about
50 years. Therefore the washer or dryer ID doesn't
mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a
schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and
discovered that more than 4,700 people were asking
for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer
repair of my own and found an excellent video which
showed me how to take my machine apart. This
video made it possible for me to do my own repair. I
was so impressed with the video that when I saw all
these people needing help, I wanted to tell them
about it. If you have a top loader (washer) of the
direct drive type, this video might be a Godsend for
you. If you look at the back of your washer and the
panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove)
chances are you have a direct drive and this video
is just what you need. You can see this video at
www.acmehowto.com You will probably need
more help in determining what the problem is and
how to fix it. If your repair problem is a washer or
dryer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com
where they have very good trouble shooting and
repair information on most washers and dryers.
I think you'll find what you need there. Don't worry
about the timer, they hardly ever go bad. Good
luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my
advice on fixya.
For the LD error please check for the following:
Note: Do NOT add any additional detergent. This will remove much of the remaining detergent held in the fabric. This step may have to be repeated to remove all the detergent.
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