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Ed Lamers Posted on Jan 21, 2019

PTO lever on M fmall keeps sliding down and shutng off even tied up it will slide down holds gd but shuts off

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 26, 2007

SOURCE: buttonhole lever

If you remove the cover on the upper left portion of the machine, while looking from the left to the right.....Above the BH lever area, you will see a round cam with a post through the middle. Rotate the round can ( with fingers on it), and try again. This will change the angle position on the lever, and hopefully correct your problem. You may have to go a couple of clicks in either direction.

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Anonymous

  • 276 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 30, 2009

SOURCE: The pin that is holding the top to the base keeps sliding out

If you turn the mixer upside down there is a grub screw which sits underneath where the metal stand pin is, if you tighten that it'll help retain the stand pin. It's only a small grub screw, you'll need a very small screwdriver, and perhaps a torch to help you.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 16, 2010

SOURCE: The window keep sliding down. What should I check first. Do the window motor need to be replaced?

I have had two Roadmaster Wagons (we love 'em) with the same problem. The problem I found was only in a plastic clip that the actuator arms snaps into. I have not found an easy solution to replace, but it can be done. Take off the door panel and lower the window some (with help of a friend) so you can see the track at the bottom of the window. In that track there are plastic clips with a socket that a ball from the actuator arms snap into. You will probably see that one (or both of those) is broken. You need to slide out the old clip (you will need to bend out the indentation on the metal track so you can get it out) and slide in a new clip from a salvage yard. Now the hard part is pressing the ball from the actuator arm back into the socket of the new clip. I found I needed a special pair of pliers that opened wide enough without requiring the handle to open too far. After it is snapped back in, you should be ready to put the door panel back on and hit the road.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 13, 2010

SOURCE: how do you remove just the rear sliding window on 06' F150

cables have come loose from sliders on rear window, would like to fix myself, HELP

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 02, 2010

SOURCE: I cant get the power sliding door alarm to stop dinging.

I have a 2006 SV6 with the power sliding doors. The problem that I found was with the contacts on the door ( They are called plungers) the movable pins were losing connection with the fixed part The plunger is very easy to replace if you can find one. The plungers are covered with a rubber cover and is held in place with 2 plastic pins. My Pontiac dealer could not even find one in his books or even a picture of one, and claimed that he had never had anyone come with a door problem. My Chevy dealer said that it came with a wiring harness that is not needed for $154. The cure that I came up with was to take the plunger block apart (it snaps together)and replace the rusted out springs then solder 3" wires to the end of the plunger pins (they solder easy) to the tabs that go to the plug(pop out the tabs or you will melt the plastic. It took about 45 min. now the doors work like new and will never loose contact again

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What is happening is that when it goes into the blend state the front of the lid gets pulled down and lifts the back off the connection. I took a long nylon zip tie and tighten it around the top portion of the handle above the connectors and then cut the excess off of the zip tie end. It holds the top tight to the connectors while cooking and blending and even better, doesn’t allow steam into the area while cooking so no water forms around the connectors. Once the cooking is complete you slide the zip tie down to the thinner part of the handle and it hangs there until next time you cook soup and you just slide it back up into place. Make sure you don’t squeeze it tighter while it is loose in the handle or you’ll need to use a new zip tie. Should last forever.

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Screw the new cable in to the cover, reconnect cable to the coupler. Leave derby cover off and re-install everything, except spring and hex plate. Turn the clutch adjusting screw counter-clockwise until resistance is felt, then back-off 1/4 turn. Re-install spring and hex plate, you may have to wiggle the hex nut a bit to get everything to line up. Replace the derby cover. Turn adjuster on the cable down until there is about 1/16 free play at clutch handle. Tighten the adjuster lock nut. Slide the protective boot back over the cable adjuster. I recommend using zip ties to seal the boot. Place a zip tie at the bottom of the boot first. Then using some WD-40, insert the straw a good bit in to the top of the boot. Spray slowly until foam starts coming out the top. Seal the top of the boot with a zip tie. This will keep the adjuster from rusting. That's it your done.
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I just fixed the same problem. The cable running from the PTO shift goes into the transmission case under your seat. You can follow the cable down and where you see a rubberboot, spray DW40 on it liberally. Work the PTO shift back and forth and wait five minutes. Do again if necessary. The spring load under the seat seems to seize up and the cable doesn't slide properly. This is one of the reasons for this problem that is easily fixed. The other a broken snap ring internally that is a much bigger problem.
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