RVs - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


I do believe this is a Incorrect line voltage issue. Not enough power.

RVs | Answered 6 hours ago


Gently Squeeze the Cover width wise and pull down gently.
These covers are very very brittle from being cooked by the Heat from the "Globes" (or Light bulbs).


So, Don't get mad if ya Crush one or two.

RVs | Answered on Jan 17, 2019


Know the Code!
Without further information?!!
Ya Can't believe the Check Engine light until
the System Voltage in a Motor Home or other is correct;
Too High, the Alternator Voltage Regulator is Bad or Too Low because, something (left on) is draining the system voltage down
or Bad Battery connection.

Always, Check the Starting Battery for 12.6 Volts (disconnected) first before coming to any real conclusions.
Reconnect Battery AND Check for 14.0+/- .02 Volts running
all systems OFF.
IF LESS THAN 12.6 and or LESS THAN 14.0+/- .02 Volts running
Check the Alternator, is it making a Low pitched whistle sound?
Is the Alternator Hot or is it Cold?
Hot=Low system voltage
Warm=operating normally
Cold=Not working at All
Low pitched whistle sound=Charging (System voltage too low).

After start/Shut off a few times as well as running a while as you normally would drive, Check all Low voltage connections around the starting Battery for warmth, those that are warm are High Resistance and either need a bigger Cable or the connection Cleaned or replaced.

IF ALL IS WELL:
NEXT, Disconnect all Batteries for 20 minutes and reconnect
This will remove the Code, Drive and see if the code comes
back.

If the code comes back, read on...

Check the work of the last service done, Done right?
Or is it time for a Tune up?

All the above are things you can check without tools
and should be on your everyday check list (Right below the line that says check Battery fluid levels) before taking your Motor Home anywhere!

Diesel; I'd say the fuel pump timing is off as programed in the
Fuel pump Program control Module (FPCM) Either
Reprogram, Reprogram by Disconnecting Fuse for an
hour or Replace Module.
Possible low Lift Pump pressure, wrong Fuel filter/
dirty Fuel Filter. Crank Shaft Sensor... Same as Gas

Gas; I'd say the Valve timing chains need to be replaced
if high mileage or a Bad camshaft position sensor or
Crank shaft sensors. The Sensors are like a CD player
optical pickups, which need be cleaned from time to
time (Use a soft lens cleaning cloth). Remove a Sensor,
clean the Crank shaft Harmonic balancer 360 Deg
and slide cloth between the sensor position and the
crank shaft. Gently Clean the Sensor and reinstall.


Dodge and Chevy have front and Rear Crank Shaft Sensors.


You NOW, Know the Code?


What the P0341 code means. P0341 is an OBD-II generic code that says the engine control module (ECM) detected the engine camshaft position sensor circuit is not within specifications. The sensor pulses do not correlate to the pulses of the crankshaft sensor.


Error Code P0342 is defined as Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Low. This means the CMP (camshaft position) sensor circuit on engine bank 1 sends an irregular reading. It's a generic trouble code, meaning it applies to all vehicles equipped with OBD-II, particularly vehicles made since 1996 up to present.

P0343 trouble code definition. A P0343 trouble code is related to a vehicle's timing system and the camshaft position sensor that monitors the rotation of the camshaft to relay data to the engine computer so it can calculate the appropriate amount of fuel and ignition.


P0344 code definition. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0344 is a generic powertrain DTC that covers all makes and models of vehicles manufactured starting in 2003. This code occurs when an incoming signal from the camshaft position sensor (or sensors) is missing at one point or another when it should not be.Dec 21, 2018


Crankshaft position is used to inform the Engine Control Module (ECM) of when it is time to spark and deliver fuel. ... Trouble code P0345 is set whenever the ECM does not sense crankshaft pulses or senses a problem with the pulses in the output with Sensor "A" Bank 2.Aug 1, 2018

There ya go FREE, no Charge!
Have fun cleaning and Let me know how it all turns out...

RVs | Answered on Jan 17, 2019


contact ers insurance they were in the alarm discount scheme in 88 they will put in touch with dealer who will help you, also yje monitor should opperate automaticaly when ignition is on there is a remote for it pound shop all in one remote will do it look for decca or hinari tv models on the search.

Holiday Rambler... | Answered on Jan 17, 2019


It probably needs a new thermo-coupler. Check on ebay for one, or at your local camper-RV parts department.

RVs | Answered on Jan 15, 2019


If you lift the foot of the bed, you will have storage. Look for a hole on the near edge of the foot to lift the secondary floor panel. In here you will have access to the motor, wires and guide rails for the slide. Depending on what you need in this area (troubleshooting), keep in mind you should have 12VDC unless the battery disconnect is off/open.

RVs | Answered on Jan 14, 2019


Check for fuses connecting the inverter. There are typically two visible on the exterior (20 or 30 amp blade style). If either or both are blown, you will get faults. Something else you may want to check is the incoming voltage. Power surges and voltage drops in L1 or L2 of the 50 Amp shore power could also give inverter faults.

RVs | Answered on Jan 12, 2019


At the Dump Valves, Large and Small Tubes, open the one for Grey Water only which is usually the small tube. Pull the Handle of that one at a Dump Station of course. Grey water should also not be dumped anywhere else but a Dump Station.

RVs | Answered on Jan 11, 2019


Typically, if it has a pressure regulator it will be built into the city water inlet. Most do not have a built-in pressure regulator.

RVs | Answered on Jan 10, 2019


All trailer (pretty much) are leveled the same way. The stabilizers are NOT designed to level the trailer - they will only hold it steady once you've leveled it. Start with a carpenter's spirit level. I use a 4 inch long one with a magnet on one side. Put the level on the floor in front of the fridge, cross-wise to the trailer. Put blocks or wedges under the low side tires and roll up onto them to get it level side-to-side. Now put down the landing gear and disconnect from the truck. Turn the level fore and aft on the floor and adjust the landing gear up or down to get the trailer level front to back. Once level in both directions, put the stabilizers down and extend any slides etc.

RVs | Answered on Jan 10, 2019


Is it a P30 chassis with the auto park brake? If so, there would be what looks like a brake drum where the driveshaft goes into the transmission. That brake is always applied until the motor is running and then is hydraulically held in the release position. The mechanism is integral with the foot brake but even with the foot brake off it will stay engaged. Under the driver seat area underneath the coach is the mechanism. If this is the problem you need to figure out how to release that brake. If you can find a way to pull the cable against the spring tension and hold it there (clamp it somehow) it will free up the system. Of course if you already have the transmission disconnected from the motor then disregard all this and assume i misunderstood the problem.

RVs | Answered on Jan 10, 2019


Holiday Rambler has a good list of support documents; EI. owner's manuals:https://www.holidayrambler.com/rv-owners-manuals

Holiday Rambler... | Answered on Jan 09, 2019


1. Look on the entrance door frame of the Camper. On the camper that I had about 30 years ago that is where I found a tag with the serial number and manufacture date of the camper.

2. Check all of the interior cabinets of the camper, there could be a tag on the back of the cabinet door or on the interior walls of the cabinet. Make sure you check all cabinets starting at the front of the camper.

3. Now check all of the exterior storage pods, including water heater and heater compartments. Remember to look at the back of the pod doors as well as the interior walls.

4. As a last resort you may have to remove the camper from your truck and check the parts of the camper that sit in your truck bed including the underside of cab over portion of your camper.

If any of our visitors have suggestions for you they can add them by clicking on the "Click Here To Add Comments" link located near the bottom of this page.

RVs | Answered on Jan 09, 2019


Here is the URL for the Owner's Manual: https://www.holidayrambler.com/resources/media/manuals/2017-Holiday_Rambler_Class_A_Gas.pdf. Your unit may not be the "gas" model but this gets you into the ball park. Your unit will have a switch marked "auxiliary" this is the battery cut of switch. Tripping that switch may get the result you require. Otherwise: Owner's manual herein supplied.

RVs | Answered on Jan 09, 2019


There are three possible causes:
1) Check for a GFI, Ground Fault Interruption plug. One may have tripped. These GFI's are located near the kitchen sink, or the bathroom sink, or if you have a block heater, there will be on on that circuit.
2) Have you at any time tried to use a kettle along with a heater, along with another high current draw appliance; If you have your coach may be equipped with an inline breaker which you will have to find;
3) Do you have an inverter/converter, EI, Magnum, or, Xantrex. Magnum with an MEARC or MERC remote, will trip if the current draw has been excessive at some time. They should reset though when you unplug from the shore post and plug it back in.

Coachmen RVs | Answered on Jan 09, 2019


hi, its either the retarder shut off switch or possibly a master switch. If its the retarder shut of switch it should put a warning light on the dash when switched off. Jon

RVs | Answered on Jan 08, 2019

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