Duke 613-E3V 2081 - Convection Oven, Elec., Deep Depth, Mech. Thermost Logo

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lynn mcdonald Posted on Nov 01, 2015
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Access to wire up power source - Duke 613-E3V 2081 - Convection Oven, Elec., Deep Depth, Mech. Thermost

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Craig Buck

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  • Posted on Jan 16, 2019
Craig Buck
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JVC head unit AV won't turn on. Resulting in no sound at all

If your JVC head unit AV is not turning on and you're getting no sound at all, there could be several possible causes. Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:
  1. Check the power source: Make sure the head unit is properly connected to the power source and that the fuse is not blown. If the head unit is not getting power, it will not turn on.
  2. Reset the head unit: Sometimes, a simple reset can solve the problem. Look for a small reset button on the front or back of the unit and press it with a pointed object like a pen or paperclip. If there is no reset button, you can try disconnecting the power source for a few minutes and then reconnecting it.
  3. Check the wiring: Make sure all the wiring is properly connected, including the ground wire. Loose or damaged wiring can cause the head unit to not turn on or produce sound.
  4. Check the speaker connections: Make sure the speakers are properly connected to the head unit and that the wiring is not damaged. If the speakers are not properly connected or the wiring is damaged, you will not hear any sound.
  5. Try a different source: If you're using an external device, such as a CD player or MP3 player, try a different source to make sure the problem is not with the external device.
If none of these troubleshooting steps work, the problem could be with the head unit itself and it may need to be repaired or replaced.
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How do I make sure that my Pioneer in-dash is working before installation

If you have access to a car battery charger or other 12 volt battery source, you can twist the 12 volt memory and accessory wires together (yellow and red) and attach those to the positive voltage source. Connect the ground wire (black) to the negative source. This will allow you to turn on the unit. Now, you need to have a sound source, and at least one small speaker to test with. Use a CD (simplest) or USB stick with music, or bluetooth enabled phone, whichever will work with your radio to provide music. If you have a bookshelf stereo speaker, or even an old speaker from an alarm clock that should work fine. With your radio powered on, music playing, volume turned up to a moderate level, touch each of the radio's 4 speaker channel's wires to your speaker and make sure you hear sound. If you don't have a car battery charger handy, you can also use an electric drill battery but be sure you know which battery terminal is positive and which is negative before you connect your radio. Another source of 12 volt power may be any number of power adapters that plug into an AC outlet, but you will need to proceed with caution. Check the back of the outlet and note the DV power output, as well as the current output (measured in amperes, or denoted with "mA" or "A". You will need a few amps (not milliamps) to turn on the radio, and at least 12 volts. You'll have to cut and strip the wires, so it's important to know which is positive and which is negative before connecting your radio to the wires. Again, please exercise extreme caution. Do not short the wires together or connect them to your radio in reverse once the adapter is plugged in. Do not perform ANY wire work while the adapter is plugged into the wall.

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Ensure the device is disconnected from any power source before taking any of it apart. The power button is held in by a little catch which can be accessed by a small hole between the button and the vacuum body. Even if you can find something that fits down the hole it will be difficult to clear the latch. Once the button is out there is a torx screw holding the actual switch and wires down. The wires all have spade fittings inside plastic sheathes. Ensure the device is disconnected from any power source before taking any of it apart.
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Look for a larger solid pink wire near the ignition harness.
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If there are lamps associated with the system, first find what voltage they are. Try to trace where the wiring goes to find if there is a source. It is even possible they ran the thing on old dry cells if it is very old. Some buzzers REQUIRE AC power, some will operate on DC. The power source WAS probably near the central indicator for the system.
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a capacitor is typically inline with your power source and stores a large amount of power to supply bursts of power when heavy draws occur. it sits between the source and the motor so you should have the (source - capcitor - motor) hot wires all conecting at the same place. The other wire on the capacitor should be the ground (if they have +/- markings use the negative as the ground).


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