My commercial refridgerator stays too cold

It needs a new thermostat

you must buy same type of thermostat for original fridge, and connected all wires

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

Hi, On any model of temperature controlled box, the only thing that is wired into the system to control the temperature is the thermostat. Commercial boxes can be controlled by a low and high pressure control. If the temperature will not get above what you are saying, the only thing that can be at fault is whats sensing the temperature which is the thermostat control. If you are not able to change the setting to raise the temp, its not doing its job and needs to be changed out.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Intermittent failure of thermostat is the most likely problem.

Check the temp sensor to make sure it is clean.

You can check for voltage coming out of the thermostat when the unit is working improperly.

If the setting is on.... say, 36, the temp is... say, 26, and there is still voltage coming from the T-stat telling the compressor and fan motors to operate, then you have a bad T-stat/sensor.

Most T-stats for that type unit do not have a separate removable sensor, its all one part with a sensor on a long tube/wire.

You can probably buy one from your local refrigeration supply warehouse for less than 35 bucks.

If it were a more consistent problem, I would say you have clogged coils or low refrigerant. But if most times it works fine, and then just randomly will not shut off, that's likely a controls thing. = T-stat.

you will need to change the defrost t-stat. this is causing your issue.

Bad thermostat or T stat set too low. Set the T stat in the freezer between 2 1/2 and 3 1/2 and see if that helps. Same goes for the "cold control" in the refrigerator part of the cabinet. It should be set at about the same setting as the T stat and then adjusted for temperature once the unit settles down.
If the fridge just "keeps on running" and never shuts off except to defrost, the T stat is bad and needs replaced.
As far as the ice machine. that's a common problem. Don't waste your money getting it fixed, it's not worth it because it'll just break again. A self contained home ice machine is cheap and lasts forever. It makes more ice faster and can be put anywhere you want it.

First you can try cleaning out all the dirt, dust and debris from around the compressor. Second try to recharge the freon in the unit. Third you can probably have the compressor tested it may be weak and neeb of replacement. In most cases it's cheaper to replace the refridgerator............

The starting components on the compressor could be going bad. You need to turn off the thermostat and then after about five minutes turn it on while listening to the compressor to hear if it kicks in, if it doesn't then you might have faulty starting component, more likely the overload.

Bought a second hand fridge that was running well. We layed the fridge on it's side for moving and let it stand upright for at least 4 hours. The moving was only 45 minutes. The freezer is semi-cold but the main body of the fridge stays at aprox. 68 degrees. Any solutions.