Hi, Tiny before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYofXAK4MUI
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https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1434637/Honda-Metropolitan-Chf50.html
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https://www.manualslib.com/manual/677660/Honda-2008-Metropolitan-Chf50.html
SOURCE: is the low beam headlight bulb difficult to
I just replaced both low beam headlight bulbs on my 2005 Honda Accord. After reading the owner's manual and trying to remove the wheel well inserts (and breaking a couple of those clips in the process), I gave up on that approach and was able to change the passenger side and driver side low beam bulbs from the engine compartment under the hood. On the passenger side, fit your arm between the front of the car and the hose that is above the headlight. You should be able to reach the bulb, disconnect the electrical connection, turn the bulb 45 degrees counterclockwise to remove it, insert the new bulb turning it 45 degrees clockwise to secure it in the hole (be careful not to touch the bulb), and reconnect the electrical connection. I loosened the 3 screws that secure the bulb to make it easier to put in the new one, but that probably isn't necessary. My hand was scraped a bit doing this, but it was not too bad. On the driver side, remove the battery hold-down clamp (there is no need to disconnect the battery connections). Reach into the fender (shine a light there so you can see the bulb connection) and you should be able to reach the bulb and replace it similarly to the other bulb. You may have to move the battery slightly to get your arm in there. Replace the battery hold down clamp when you're done. I accidentally dropped the old bulb in the wheel well, but other than that it went pretty smoothly. Good luck.
SOURCE: 2005 jeep grand cherokee wont start...batt good
Make sure that your terminal ends are clean where they contact the battery and make sure that the ground wire connection on the block is good. If the clicking noise is coming from the starter and the battery is fully charged and has been load tested, chances are that the starter solenoid has worn out (replace with starter). If you can turn the engine by hand it is not "locked up" If you can't, changing the starter is a waste of time as you have a far larger problem.
Do what I said and you should find a solution to the problem.
Good Luck!!!.
SOURCE: electric start not working
i want a speedometer for kymco hipster 125, 03 and handlebars but i cant fine any, could you tell me please.
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