Honda Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Patrick_lia and the usual suspects are:
1. Extremely lean fuel mixture.
2. Dirt, rust, water, or ethanol sludge in the fuel system.
3. Sticky throttle cables.
4. Multiple carburetors not in synchronization.
5. TPS sensor out of adjustment or faulty.
6. Wrong spark plugs for the type of service.
7. Throttle bodies not in synchronization (FI)
8. Faulty O2 sensor.
9. Clogged, stuck, or faulty IAC valve.
10. Aftermarket components are not compatible with ECM.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f-hurricane-38/bucking-surging-127142/
https://cbrforum.com/forum/tags/surging/
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/280798686-cbr600-1990-honda-service-repair-manual $15
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/677664/Honda-Cbr600f.html

1988 Honda CBR... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Thomas for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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https://www.hondashadow.net/threads/spark-plug-wire-advice-needed.529329/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1188474/Honda-Shadow-Vt1100.html
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https://www.totalmotorcycle.com/motorcyclespecshandbook/honda/2004-honda-VT1100CShadowSpirit

2004 Honda VT... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?6,3184844
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http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owning_a_honda/owners_manuals/motorcycles/NC50-1978.pdf

Honda... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Dharma it would make the scooter harder to start when cold, for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Triumph, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.quora.com/What-could-possibly-be-the-valve-tappet-clearance-for-a-Honda-CB-Unicorn-150cc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-mC_z27d1Y
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1305313/Honda-Cb125.html#product-CB160
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https://www.fuelarc.com/bikes/honda/cb-unicorn-160-cbs/user-manual/

Honda... | Answered 2 days ago


No, it's most likely a fuel related issue. First make sure you don't have the kill switch engaged.
Check the fuel filter and replace if old or dirty.
Then with the fuel petcock turned on open the drain screws on the carbs to be sure clean fuel flows from both of them. If it doesn't you have a blockage somewhere and disassembly of the fuel system and or carburetors may be called for. Start tracing the fuel path to see how far it is getting.You might have rust, water or other crud in your tank plugging things up.

Honda... | Answered 3 days ago


Yes I believe so. Just kidding. The rear of the seat should pull up slightly and you need to pull the seat to the rear. They can be a pain.

Honda... | Answered 3 days ago


Hi, Kashif84 and the usual suspects are:
1. Dirty or clogged air filter.
2. Faulty spark plug.
3. Bad Gas.
4. Improper oil level.
5. Improper chain adjustment and lubrication.
6. Low tire pressure.
7. Dirty or contaminated carburetor needs cleaning and tuning.
8. Clogged or faulty fuel pump or injectors.
9. Improper valve adjustment.
10. Slipping clutch.
11. Improper timing.
12. Low compression.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://bikez.com/msgboard/msg.php?id=22500&type=bike
https://www.thescooterreview.com/component/content/article/276-honda-lead-100?showall=1
https://haynes.com/en-au/honda-scooter/scv100-lead/2003-2007 $30
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/677488/Honda-Lead-Scv100.html

2006 Honda SCV... | Answered on Oct 15, 2019


Hi, Flaxman_spoo and the usual suspects are:
1. Dirty or clogged air filter.
2. Faulty spark plug.
3. Bad Gas.
4. Improper oil level.
5. Improper chain adjustment and lubrication.
6. Low tire pressure.
7. Dirty or contaminated carburetor needs cleaning and tuning.
8. Clogged or faulty fuel pump or injectors.
9. Improper valve adjustment.
10. Slipping clutch.
11. Improper timing.
12. Low compression.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.justanswer.com/motorcycle/7a0nz-honda-lead-100cc-scooter-will-rev-so-far.html
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=270992
https://haynes.com/en-au/honda-scooter/scv100-lead/2003-2007 $30
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/677488/Honda-Lead-Scv100.html

2007 Honda SCV... | Answered on Oct 15, 2019


Hi, Jeff engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is the air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into Suzuki Raider 150 your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components has been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in the process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f-hurricane-38/cbr-1000f-bogs-down-low-rpm-19018/
https://www.600rr.net/vb/62-troubleshooting/108269-engine-bogging-stuttering.html
https://www.cyclechaos.com/images/9/90/Honda_CBR600F2_91-94_Service_Manual.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/791362/Honda-Cbr600f.html

Honda CBR 600 F... | Answered on Oct 14, 2019


Hi, Deon and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Blackbird won start
HONDA CBR WONT START TRY THESE TIPS
1997 1998 Honda CBR1100XX Service Repair Workshop Manual Download Download... $15
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2000 Honda CBR... | Answered on Oct 12, 2019


Hi, Tiny I feel your pain, before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.reddit.com/r/scooters/comments/2zv9i2/honda_metropolitan_on_craigslist_clicks_but_wont/
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2005 Honda... | Answered on Oct 11, 2019


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7lWBObymg0

Honda... | Answered on Oct 11, 2019


Hi, Luke and the usual suspects are:
1. Shifter pawl improperly adjusted.
2. Shifter drum improperly adjusted or damaged.
3. Shifter engaging parts/dogs badly worn or rounded.
4. Shifter forks bent.
5. Damaged gears.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
95 900rr pops out of gear
1996 Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade Transmission Replacement pt1
Honda CBR900RR Service Manual
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1998 Honda CBR... | Answered on Oct 07, 2019


Best money you'll EVER spend; buy a service manual from say amazon for example. It'll lay it out step by step and keep your ride going for years to come.

2005 Honda VTR... | Answered on Oct 04, 2019

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