Honda Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

do they blink as normal? if so this is all they should do the front lamps are continously lit as side lights but are not required on the back, check the wires going to them if they are flashers only their will be two wires, if theirs three they have side lights also, after this check the bulbs Regards Jim,,,

check the cold start valve its an electronic unit on the carb

1,3,4,2, from left to right, the Left hand coil leads go to 1&4 and the right Hand to 2&3 Regards Jim...

.008 inlet .010 exhaust

not fitted to this model

did you clean the carbs your self? it seems like the slow jets are blocked take them out and spray carb cleaner through them. if you cant see fluid going straight through they are blocked,, if so replace them or try find a strand of very fine wire to poke through them, i use an old throttle cable cut it and unravel the strands until you hasve a single one to pass through.

likely to be blocked idle or slow jets in the carburetor, get them cleaned and synchronized.

which cover are you referring to? if its the small round cover over the crank shaft on the right hand side tap it with a soft hammer or use a piece of timber and a hammer, its held in place by the gasket.

it is likely to be the cam chain tensioner, does the clutch rumble on tick over? pull the clutch lever if the sound changes ie gets quieter it could be the drive rubbers in the clutch basket.

K&N filters? There are parts in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Honda+CBR+1100+XX+Super+Blackbird+air+intake+plastic+parts ..

The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.

To remove the coolant reservoir on a 1998 Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird, locate and remove the fasteners securing it, then gently pull it away to access the connecting pipes for inspection.

Let's focus on adjusting the air/fuel mixture. This adjustment can help balance the fuel-to-air ratio for both cylinders. Here are the steps you can follow: Idle Screw (Air/Fuel Mix): The idle screw, also known as the pilot screw, adjusts the air/fuel mixture at idle. It affects the fuel flow from the pilot jets (idle jets) into the carburetors. Locate the idle screw on your carburetor. It's usually a small black knob near the choke. Turn the idle screw to achieve the desired idle speed. Listen to how the bike sounds while adjusting it. Note: Adjusting the idle screw shouldn't significantly affect the mixture setting. Pilot Screw (Idle Mixture): The pilot screw (idle mixture screw) fine-tunes the air/fuel mixture from idle rpm up to about 1/8th throttle. To access the pilot screws, you may need to remove the air box and carb side cover. The factory default setting for the pilot screws is typically 2.5 turns out. Carefully screw each one in until it lightly seats closed, and then count the number of turns. You can adjust the pilot screws to make the mixture richer (more turns out) or leaner (less than 2.5 turns). Dual Carburetor Sync: Since your bike has dual carburetors, it's essential to ensure they are synchronized. Use a vacuum gauge set to synchronize the carbs. Adjust the linkage screw until both throttle butterflies are in the same position for idle2. Synchronization helps maintain consistent performance between the front and rear cylinders. Check Rear Cylinder Idle: If the rear cylinder isn't running correctly at idle, it could be due to a partially plugged idle jet. Consider cleaning the carburetors if needed. While it can be a bit of work, it's essential for proper performance. If the issue persists, consult a mechanic or consider opening up the carburetor for a thorough inspection. Remember to take your time and make gradual adjustments. If you're unsure, consult your bike's service manual or seek professional assistance. Adjusting the Mixture Screws - VT750DC.com Carb Cleaning on 03 spirit 750 ' Honda Shadow Forums Carb Adjustments ' Honda Shadow Forums

Question edited for clarity, but no idea what you mean by - "What do I need to do to get the gay? The clutching gauge in again?" You issue is probably that all the clutch plates are glued together. Leaving a bike for 21 years will do that. https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+Honda+Gold+Wing+1200+stuck+clutch ..

I found this You can't reset the HISS. All the HISS does is take note of the code from a specific key. You can make it recognise up to four keys but you need to have one of those keys first to be able to get into the system to add another key. If you don't have any key that works then you will have to replace the ECU and key with a new matched set. Or you can get a non-HISS ECU from the US. https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+honda+cbr+1000rr+hiss+security+system ..

This idea is generally a fairy tale. This relates to the GM Passlock System but it is the same theory. https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29887709-gm_passlock_security_system As I have said many times, you need to fix the system, not find a way around it. You are also making easy for theft. Bash a screwdriver in the ignition lock and away they go on your bike. Gone in 60 seconds. ..

They are available to purchase; https://retromotorcyclemanuals.com/products/2003-2013-honda-cb1300-manual I have no affiliation with the seller. It is a Google result from a search.

If you've already bled the hydraulic clutch system, and you're still experiencing difficulty pulling the lever with no apparent kinks or obstructions in the lines, there are a few other potential issues to consider:

1. Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder Issues: Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for any signs of leaks or damage. If either of these components is faulty, it can lead to a loss of hydraulic pressure. Replace or rebuild the faulty cylinder if needed.
2. Clutch Fluid Contamination: Ensure that the clutch fluid is clean and free from contaminants. Contaminated fluid can affect the performance of the hydraulic system. If the fluid is discolored or contains debris, consider flushing the entire system and refilling it with fresh clutch fluid.
3. Air in the System: Despite bleeding, there might still be air trapped in the system. Ensure that you've thoroughly bled the system, starting from the master cylinder and working your way down to the slave cylinder. Sometimes, it may take multiple bleeding sessions to completely remove all air bubbles.
4. Clutch Cable Adjustment (if applicable): If your motorcycle has a hydraulic clutch, cable adjustment may not be applicable. However, if it uses a cable-operated clutch, check for proper cable tension and adjust it according to the manufacturer's specifications.
5. Clutch Components Wear: Check the clutch components such as the clutch plates and springs for wear. Worn-out components may result in poor clutch engagement. If necessary, replace the clutch components.

If the issue persists after checking these aspects, it might be worthwhile to consult with a professional motorcycle mechanic. They can conduct a thorough inspection and diagnose the problem accurately. It's important to address clutch issues promptly to ensure safe and reliable operation of your motorcycle.

Install a new stock spark plug. Clean the air filter then remove and clean the carb. Drain the gas tank, clean out rust and any trash, and remove the fuel valve to clean the internal tank filters. Now install an in-line fuel filter in addition to the tank filter.
What follows is just in case it will help out. Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick.