20 Most Recent 2000 Suzuki VL 1500 Intruder LC Questions & Answers

The clutch on this model is hydraulic and is 'self adjusting", if the clutch is slipping the plates are worn out and in need of replacement. This information comes directly from the factory service manual.

My friend, you have some kind of serious trouble. Batteries should generally not get this hot. I don't know why it is that it is getting this hot. Believe me, you don't want an explosion under your (coff coff) (excuse me) ... hinny ... That would be awful. Please have your Suzuki shop take a look and make what ever repairs will be necessary.

Benefits to getting it fixed: Your bike will start and run better ... your hinny will thank you. (PS: The hinny im talking about is not the hinny that will come up under a Wikipedia search. I'm talking about YOUR rear end)

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

Same problem here

Yes there is 2 fuses high and low beam

I have the same bike. Mine didn't come with a fork lock key, so I've never locked mine. If this works for you, you can decide whether or not you want to go further about repairing/replacing the lock cylinder. First of all, you'll probably have to rotate the handlebars slightly to take pressure off of the locking mechanism. Then take a pair of small needle-nose pliers and try rotate the lock cylinder, all the while slightly rotating the handlebars. If you can get it unlocked that way, you're golden. The video on 7 tricks to remove a key makes a lot of sense to me, if you haven't looked at it, I recommend it. With patience and a "light hand" I think you'll get it out.

There appears to be a problem with the starter .. New battery, 'whir' sound when you press the start button ... I suspect the gear is not engaging. Remove the starter if you can ... Otherwise, this might be a job for the shop.

Hi, Tkelectrical if your carburetor or exhaust is: COUGHING is usually caused by an air leak in the intake system and will generally have the same telltale signs, a wet or damp build up of oil/gas seepage at the intake manifold to cylinder head or carburetor to intake manifold connection and in rare instances a worn throttle plate shaft and or seals. POPPING on deceleration is usually caused by a lean fuel condition or an air leak in the exhaust system and is generally located where black carbon soot is seen as a flashing build up from any joint connection. This condition can easily be remedied by removing and cleaning both joint pieces and reassembling with high temp silicone and torquing the exhaust clamp to the proper spec. SPITTING is usually caused by a faulty accelerator pump and or nozzle, or the float bowl needle and seat leaking and overflowing through the main jet mixing well nozzle, or the air-fuel mixture screw is adjusted too lean. BACKFIRING is usually caused by a sticky/tight intake valve or a timing issue, 180 degrees out or cam chain off 1or 2 teeth. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Intruders Alert Suzuki 1500LC C90 Owners Group Classic Suzuki VL1500 Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki Suzuki Intruder VL1500B Owner Manual

On the LH side of the bike, under your cover plate should be the RED positive lead from your battery. That connects to the starter relay. This should be a small box, roughly 2 by 2.5 inches, with a plastic cover plate on top. If you pull back the cover you will expose the main 30A fuse. There is also a space to hold a spare in this same part. There may not be one in there, but that's what the second fuse slot is for.

FOLLOW THE LINE FROM THE CLUTCH LEVER?

Yeah, you have a short somewhere in the electrical system, or your alternator is overcharging.

I'm not sure what you mean when you say that you separated the carbs from the intakes. If you mean that you are now running the carbs open to the air, without having the air flow through the filters and airbox, and then into the carbs, then you could be running too lean. One way to see if it's too lean is to do a plug check. While the best way is to run the bike hard in top gear, that's too difficult unless you're on a race track, so try this; Run the bike for awhile at the top of second or third gear somewhere that you can do it safely, and then disengage the clutch, get completely off the throttle and coast to a stop and turn the engine off quickly. Then pull one or more spark plugs and look at the electrode end, ideally with a small magnifying glass. You can also use the camera on your smartphone, zooming in and taking a photo. If the plug looks a bit tan or toast colored, you're OK, but if it looks white-ish, then you're probably running too lean. Conversely, if it looks dark and even a bit wet, it's too rich. You should go through the whole process more than once, to get an average.

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with bike sitting take gas cap off to see how long it run. if it keeps running try a new gas cap if not that,maybe vapor locking

possible not enough clutch free play engine oil is not used in the clutch assembly it is a special clutch/ transmission oil wrong oil will cause the clutch plates to slip

The rocker cover gaskets can be changed with the engine installed. There are some low profile tools available to make getting to some of the bolts easier.

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals