My father owns a 2008 Series 3 Buick Lucerne, 3.8. Yesterday, the car stalled on a busy road and we had to get the car towed because it won't start again. We put a code reader on it and it threw the P0520. We replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor but still the code is being shown. We are by no means mechanics so we don't have any way to test ohms or rpms. The motor turns over but the car won't start. Please help!
To diagnose the problem, unplug the connector at the oil pressure switch and check for voltage on the colored wire (black is usually ground wire) with the key in the RUN or START position. Next, check for ground on the black wire. This will confirm that the wiring is ok. Are you sure there is oil in the engine ? The only other thing is the connection on the plug to the switch not making contact. Try that.
Thank you! I don't think we have anything to check for voltage, but if changing the wiring is easy enough to do, we might be able to just try changing that out. The wires all look good from the outside and we re positioned them as well as making sure everything was tight and secure. There is oil in the engine and we check all the fluids every week to make sure everything looks good.
Ok I know this motor well and it is starting to sound like the trigger coil that is behind the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft. This is why the car would just quit and not restart. This is a common problem with this motor. Without doing the test that I mentioned I can’t say much more. Could check the connection to the computer (the plug) the computer should be buried under the air box.
Are you talking about the actual crankshaft position sensor? That's what we are currently working on changing at the moment we are just waiting for the part which we should have by this afternoon.
Yes that is it.
Ok perfect! Once we have the part installed I'll give you an update on if the vehicle starts or not. Thank you!
Ok replaced the crankshaft sensor and still no start.
I am with you now ! Ok two things . First did you check for spark at all here ? Second it was being driven and just stopped! How long had it been running or did you just do something like fill the tank ? / drive through a big puddle? Anything different happen ? The spark will tell us that the computer is doing what it should be. This is starting to look like the computer. So we need to do some simple tests. First is the spark test then if we have spark then we can throw some fuel into the intaake a splash of gas or quick start / either and see if it fires up on it.
We will check to see if there is any sort of spark first thing tomorrow morning! The car had only been running for about 5 minutes when it stalled but had been driven a half hour that same morning. So there was about 8 hours in between the morning drive and the afternoon drive where the car stalled after 5 minutes. No puddles and the gas tank had not been filled since Sunday (the car stalled on Tuesday) and we only ever use Shell gas. We also already tried some quick start in the intake and the car still wouldn't start!
Well if you tried the quick start and it didn’t fire we are going to find that there is no spark. But I still want you to check.
Ok no spark but in the meantime, my dad is going to change out the ignition module and see if that does anything. Sounds like you might be leaning more towards the PCM as the issue though!
Well there is no ignition module on it just three coils and they can’t fail all at once. You would loose spark on two cylinders
Now I would tell you to change the crank sensor but you already did that. So now it leaves the wiring and the computer. I have spare computers but I can’t get one to you. Make sure all the fuses in the fuse box are good double check them. Get one of those fuse checkers. You just push it on top of the fuse and the light lights up.
We have another vehicle that is out of commission that shares many of the same parts so we are swapping out fuses with that one just to be sure. I think we will try to get another PCM today and give that a shot!
Ok finally got our new PCM that has been programmed for our vehicle and sent to us. We installed it today and absolutely CANNOT get the key to be programmed. We have what we think to be two PK Circle Plus keys and neither one will program. When we put the key into the ignition and turn it to the ON position, the security light will turn on (check engine light stays illuminated the whole time) and then turn off after a few seconds. We still tried to do the 10 minutes in ON and then turn the key off repeated 3 times but still no start. We also hear a clicking noise coming from somewhere in the dash when the key is in the ON position. I believe we did get the locks to click and the horn honked but no start. Any suggestions?
I am not any help with that security thing you should have had it taken out when it was reprogrammed. I would ask the place where you got the computer from. You must not be paring the key right with the ecu.
We did it by the PDF they gave us a few times and it still didn't pair. We did message them and they were no help. I figured I would just post something here in case! I was told by an "online mechanic" that we needed to take the car to a mechanic and get the "immobilizer" programmed but in all the research we had done that was never mentioned. Is that something you had to do for any of your vehicles?
You are going to need a scan tool for programming
2008 Buick Lucerne V6-3.8L
Antitheft and Alarm Systems: Programming and Relearning
Immobilizer System Component Programming
10-Minute Immobilizer Relearn
This 10-minute relearn procedure will relearn the prerelease password and the challenge/response data between the theft deterrent module (TDM) and the engine control module (ECM).
1. Connect a scan tool to the vehicle in the pass-thru arrangement. 2. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. 3. Ensure that all power consuming devices are turned OFF on the vehicle. 4. On the Techline Terminal, select Service Programming System and follow the Techline Terminal on-screen instructions, using the Pass-Thru method. Ensure the correct programming selection is chosen based on component being replaced or programmed. For this procedure, go to the V.T.D. Vehicle Theft Deterrent Learn menu and choose the Vehicle Theft Deterrent Learn, ECM, or PK3 Replaced selection. 5. At this point the scan tool must remain connected for the duration of the 10-minute relearn procedure.
Important: * The scan tool will initially display 12 Minutes. The first 2 minutes allow the scan tool to initialize the appropriate control module. The remaining 10 minutes is the relearn timer.
* On some vehicles the security indicator may be illuminated for the duration of the 10-minute relearn procedure.
6. Observe the scan tool, after approximately 10 minutes the scan tool will display "Programming Successful, Turn OFF Ignition". The vehicle is now ready to relearn the key information and/or the passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. 7. Turn OFF the ignition and wait 2 minutes. 8. With a master vehicle key, turn the ignition to the RUN position for 15 seconds, then start the vehicle. The TDM and ECM have now relearned the pre-release password and the challenge/response data. 9. With a scan tool, clear any DTCs.
Hopefully our scan tool can do this because if not I'm assuming this tool will be pretty expensive! Is this something you have to do for every new PCM?
On newer cars you probably have too
Ok we will try to see if we can get that programmed tomorrow! You have been so helpful and I'm very thankful! This has turned into such a headache.
you could have bought one on eBay already program to you vin
We did buy our PCM already programmed to our vehicle from ebay. People are now saying we have to have our immobilizer programmed too before we reprogram the key which that ebay store mentioned nothing about and that's where we are so far. We have our programmed PCM to our VIN and are trying to get the key to be reprogrammed to our new programmed PCM.
OK back again. Finally got another PCM programmed for out VIN by O'Rielly and FINALLY was able to bypass the immobilizer. Still no spark and no start. The engine is turning over and trying to start but wont. We are going to try a new camshaft sensor tomorrow. So far, new oil pressure sensor, new PCM, new crankshaft and still no spark. I really hope this new camshaft will do it because I'm at my wits end!
Have you check the Ignition Control Module?
Read the codes again ! See if you are getting the oil pressure sensor code ! If you are it could mean a broken oil pump. That is what the sensor is for to protect the engine from further damage.
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Did you get any warnings before the car turn off? Was the check engine light on before this happen?
Unfortunately I was not driving, but my mom is pretty sure there were no warnings before the car just turned completely off.
did you erase the code after installing the sensor?
Yup! We erased it before every start attempt and it kept popping back up.
Where is the oil pressure sensor location?
I don't think on this vehicle the oil pressure sensor will keep the engine from starting.
Have you check to see if your fuel pump is turning on?
Check fuel pump for sound and see if the relay is clicking # 41 under hood relay box.
We had to take the passenger wheel off to get to the sensor as the tool we were using was too long to go at it from under the hood. Thank you! I will try that in the morning and let you know!
Ok fuel pump is priming. Both the fuse and the relay look good and the relay did click when the key was turned. Sounds like all those are working like they should.
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Testimonial: "Thank you for that! The last thing on that list of possible things to check would be the wiring and connectors. We always check the oil every week and the it looks great and we have already replaced the oil pressure sensor. I'm sorry I'm not very technical so hope I'm giving enough information. Is is possible that since the car still wont start it could be the crank shaft sensor?"
NO.
Hmmm ok we are a bit of a loss then. We saw a few people say to change the crankshaft position sensor to help fix the issue so I was curious if that would work or not. Any other suggestions than what was given with your link?
Any chance it could be the Oil Pressure Safety Switch?
did you reset the code
Yes we reset the code several times and each time we try to start the car, the code comes back up.
Is the pigtail good.
Yes looks good.
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It is most likely a loose wire or the oil pump may not be working properly it could be going bad this can cause low oil pressure just before it goes out
Testimonial: "We made sure to check all the wiring and we think that looks pretty good. As far as the oil pump, we haven't checked that yet but now we have the new issue of trying to get the key reprogrammed to our new PCM. We had the PCM set with our VIN but not we can't get the car to turn over at all. We will try to check the oil pump and see what we can find!"
SOURCE: 98 buick centry 3.1 6 cyc one owner family owned
Unfortunately, you've got serious problems. The GM 3.1 and 3.4 engines have a nasty habit of breaking camshafts. For some reason, which I have yet to determine, the cam bearings seize on the cam and the camshaft ends up breaking in half. The engine will continue to run, albeit very poorly since all the cylinders are not working because the rear half of the camshaft, which runs the oil pump, is not spinning.
SOURCE: Hi, I have a 2004 Buick Rendezvous CXL. I brought
Is your check engine light on? If not Seem to me that is a fuel related problem. How many miles on the car . Has the fuel filter been change? The fuel pump may be losing pressure. That will make it do that.
SOURCE: 1996 oldsmobile aurora oil pressure
The Aurora is a low pressure oil system. The only solution available at this time is to increase the oil weight. I went o straight 30W to solve the idle alarm issue. Some use 20W oil and that works too.
With 20W you will be at 80 to 90psi cold then drop to 20-30psi hot.
I first replaced the oil pressure gauge and it was worse. I put the original back in and it was better. Then went to 30W and all is fine.
Running it that way for a few years now.
SOURCE: Engine stalls driving down the road or on take
Trouble Code 42 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the
Electronic Spark Timing (EST) system. During cranking, the timing is
controlled by the ignition module and the ECM grounds the EST line. It
expects to see no activity on this line at this time. When the ECM
enters EST mode, it applies +5 volts to the BYPASS line and expects to
see voltage variations on the EST line.
Reasons for the ECM to set Code 42:
1. System in BYPASS mode (i.e. EST line supposedly grounded) but activity sensed on EST line
2. System in EST mode (i.e. BYPASS line driven with +5 volts) but no activity seen on the EST line
Possible causes include:
1. BYPASS line is open or grounded
2. EST line is open or grounded
3. Poor connections between ignition module and ECM
4. Poor routing of EST harness and/or poor quality ignition wires (EMI induced electrical noise
5. Faulty or incorrect ignition module
6. Faulty ECM
7. Faulty Pick Up Coil
8. Faulty Ignition Control Module
9. Faulty Crank Sensor or the Crank Sensor magnet probe could be cracked
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Usually answered in minutes!
We switched the ignition control module with one that works from another vehicle of ours so that has been changed as well! Codes have been read and no we have no codes at all!
So have you checked for spark and fuel pressure
Yes fuel pressure is good but we have no spark.
Just replaced the camshaft sensor and still no spark. I am absolutely stumped!
Have you check ecm data to see if you getting any reading from other sensors...like engine cooling temp and other reading...do you have a noid light to check injector puls?
Have you check spark plug wires and have you check to see if any of them have spark?
I think we found something odd...we still have our old PCM and the code is the correct VIN but the new PCM is showing a different VIN...we were able to bypass the immobilizer using a trick so we got the car to crank again but now we are getting immobilizer codes for the new PCM. No other codes are present. The old PCM is still showing sensor codes but the new one is only showing immobilizer codes now. We are calling Orielly now to rectify the issue.
Ok...take care of that first.
I will update tomorrow on what happens! I so appreciate the help you all have been giving me!
I am thinking you have no oil pressure you are going to have to put a gauge in it where the sender came from to see.
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