20 Most Recent 2004 Ford Crown Victoria Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Must be a bad connection somewhere. https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Ford+Crown+Victoria.+no+power+to+VSS+sensor ..

Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, https://www.google.com/search?q=%E2%80%8BFord+Crown+Victoria+Police+Interceptor+canister+vent+valve+diagram ..

TRY A LOCAL TRANSMISSION SHOP

this problem is caused by a defective engine starter motor solenoid, the solenoid is part of the starter replace the starter.

it is DOHC

I finally bit the bullet and took it into the dealer. It was indeed the Light Control Module (LCM). The dealer said there was not a service bulletin issued on this problem but when I asked the service manager to talk to the Ford rep about assisting with this safety issue, it took all of ten seconds for him to come back on the line and say that they would fix the whole thing for $100. (My car is not under warranty and the LCM alone is $480). Not sure exactly what happened behind the scenes but it appears Ford would rather fix this than have an issue made of it. (This is a privately owned car that does have wigwags and other emergency lighting equipment installed. These were not a factor).

Have PCM checked.

Heres a diagram. Hope it helps

Yes 1st pull tire from pass rear. 2 tie exhaust to pass side to help clear fuel pump access cover. 3 remove fuel lines loosen passenger tank strap and gain extra wire length . 4 remove access cover 8 mm bolts and work module out of tank. 5 replace pump assembly and 6 replace parts as removed.

igntion switch ? you saying key and tumbler thought it it is part of the igintion barrel not much information out there on that question with the barrel out might be one for a locksmith you tube Ignition removal for the Crown Victoria

you have a blend door actuator bad

It could be under the "Tone" button if there is one of those. It might also be in the top right of the panel. Also if there is a button that says "clock" that is the same as CLK. Could also be you need to hold down the typical volume knob, that might work as well.

Hope someone has helped you already. Can make a few comments. Some of the switching controls are vacuum and although the lines going to them may be okay, the vacuum pods (called motors or engines) may leak or a rod which attaches to the vent flaps may have hopped off. Other pods, engines, motors, are electric and may just be dead. The dash controls on Lincolns have self-diagnostics and I can not say your Ford has this feature. My digital display on a 2002 high end Marquis may be different. I suggest you try to remember when the system was adjusting temperature levels by itself if you heard a tiny motor sound or another electric motor sound when changing from def to floor to vent etc. If this sound is missing now, there is your problem. There are online Salvage yards which can expand your ability to get a used part. There are also good youtube videos of under dash repair for problems like yours. Your friend is probably right about the problem area. Just notice that a part called a control head is the dash control. Your repair search should include make, model and year. Hope this helps.

Sounds as if the voltage regulator is going bad. Most are now located on or inside the alternator itself. Passing the test with the problem being intermittent makes a case for the regulator. I suggest getting a regulator, or replace the alternator with a friends if you have one whose model will fit.

Fortunately the problem of a shorted pump or shorted wire is present giving you the opportunity to find the problem. Be careful and deliberate to not jiggle the wires correcting the problem for it just to happen again when you least expect it. The defect can also be a chaffed wire where the insulation has been worn away. If possible disconnect the fuel pump connector. Check for a short in the wire. Suspect that the wires where they are close to exhaust have melted the insulation. Remember to inspect and check as you displace the wires to try to locate the defect. Any wires near the catalytic converter are suspect do to the intense heat. Check the resistance of the pump. About 2 ohms or greater. Some are as low as 1 ohm (12amp) No comment

It is not switching from heat to cool, or it is not cooling, or no air is coming out of the unit?

Don't think you have a door ajar switch problem , more then like the lighting control module is the culprit . Does the door ajar light on the instrument cluster stay lit ? The interior lighting can be separated into two distinct modes of operation: the courtesy lighting and the demand lighting. The lighting control module (LCM) controls all of the interior lighting in the vehicle, as described in the following text. The front dome lamps, rear reading lamps, and instrument panel courtesy lamps, can be illuminated either by opening any of the vehicle doors (courtesy lamp function) or by depressing the headlamp switch (demand lamp function). When any door is open, the door ajar switch grounds an input to the LCM which then sends power to the courtesy lamps. The voltage sent to the courtesy lamps gradually increases from 0 volts to 12 volts within 500 ms (± 50 ms), to achieve the theater lighting effect. When the door(s) are closed the door ajar switch(es) break(s) the ground to the LCM input which then gradually reduces the power from 12 volts to 0 volts within 5 seconds. (± .5 second). When the headlamp switch is depressed it grounds an input to the LCM which in turn sends 12 volts to the front dome lamps, rear reading lamps, and instrument panel courtesy lamps. When the headlamp switch is depressed a second time, it breaks the ground to the LCM input which then ceases to send power to the front dome lamps, rear reading lamps, and instrument panel courtesy lamps. The battery saver will disrupt power to the courtesy lamps after 10 minutes, the demand lamps after 30 minutes, and the headlamps after 10 minutes. Turning the ignition switch to the RUN or ACC position will terminate the battery saver feature by disabling the interrupt timers and reinstate power to the lamps. Do you know what DTC'S are ? diagnostic trouble codes ! LCM Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index DTC Description Source Action B1322 Driver Door Ajar Circuit Short to Ground LCM Go To Pinpoint Test F . B1442 Door Handle Switch Circuit Failure LCM Go To Pinpoint Test G . B1445 Door Handle Switch Circuit Short to Ground LCM Go To Pinpoint Test G . B1563 Door Ajar Circuit Failure LCM Go To Pinpoint Test C . B1566 Door Ajar Circuit Short to Ground LCM Go To Pinpoint Test H . B1685 Lamp Dome Input Circuit Failure LCM Go To Pinpoint Test I . B1687 Lamp Dome Input Circuit Short to Battery LCM Go To Pinpoint Test I . - All Other DTCs LCM REFER to Section 419-10 . PINPOINT TEST C: THE COURTESY LAMPS STAY ON CONTINUOUSLY CONDITIONS DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS C1 CHECK THE SYSTEM OPERATION Open and close each door, making sure that each door is completely closed.

• Are the courtesy lamps still illuminated after the 25 second time-out period?

Yes GO to C2 . No The system is operating correctly. C2 TEST DOME LAMP SWITCH Depress the dome lamp switch.

• Are the courtesy lamps still illuminated?

Yes DEPRESS the dome lamp switch a second time. GO to C3 . No The system is operating correctly. C3 CHECK THE LIGHTING CONTROL MODULE LCM C2145a

• Are the courtesy lamps still illuminated?

Yes REPAIR circuit 53 (BK/LB). REPEAT the self-test. CLEAR the DTCs. No INSTALL a new LCM. REFER to Section 419-10 . REPEAT the self-test. CLEAR the DTCs.

Find another mechanic.. First, if the harness is bad, it is almost impossible to diagnose a bad computer. I diagnose cars. I start with power and grounds first. Then check wires for continuity. Check sensor and actuators for resistance. I get 1 hour to do this. Usually do it. Sometime the harness is bad. it requires more time. Being a ford... I would start with cleaning the maf sensor and the throttle body. Look at replacing the fuel and air filter.