20 Most Recent 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Questions & Answers

Try turning your key on then off then on and then off and then leaving have the same truck when you do that key sequence under the odometer it should give you a code or a messagewrite it down and go from there. Always try this before jumping to conclusions about actually spending any time or money.

fuses are first. or read the manual here. https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Most likely your system just needs to be charged with r134a coolant. You can do it yourself. Just head down to the local auto parts store and buy a can of coolant that comes with a hose and gauge attached and then locate you low pressure port on you system. It is typically located on the passenger side between the radiator and the firewall on a silver tube. Don't worry you can't make a mistake as the coupler will only fit the low pressure side. When you locate it remove the cap and hook up gauge and can. Start the car and turn the AC to mac cold and highest fan speed. Then open the gauge depending on ambient temperature out side your gauge should read between 35-45 psi. The gauge should also be color coordinated as long as you don't fill until the gauge is in the red. Your good. Then close the gauge, remove it from the low pressure port and replace the cap on the port. (When the coolant is flowing into your system the can should turn quite cold and maybe even have some frost on it. No worries that is normal).

Loyd

I have 2004 Dodge 3500 w/ 5.9 Cummins , at about 80,000 miles I had excessive oil fumes coming from underneath the hood of the truck . Fumes came from the slobber tube . Took it to the dealership . At first they replaced the fuel rail . Problem got worse . Took it to the dealership again , Oil pan dropped , engine head removed , fuel tank checked , at my cost at first . Results , number one piston top pitted like some took a pick axe to it , parts of piston rings missing , number six piston top clean , but parts of the rings missing as well . This took 17 days for the dealership to find out and to agree to have the engine repaired under warrenty . 14 more days to order and install new engine and turbo . 31 days in total to repair an engine that is defective . Two other engine were in the shop at the same time with the same problem . I now have 100,000 miles on the truck and only 20,000 miles on the new engine with the signs of the oily fumes showing up again . So , rings crack , pieces make their way out of the engine block thru the turbo , back pressure in the crank force the oily fumes out of the slobber tube . That has been one of the problems I have experienced with my Dodge Ram . I am not impressed with my 2004 Dodge , however , my 1995 Dodge Ram was great . Is the new Cummins Engines a true diesel with a replacable cylinder sleeve ?

I hope that this is not your problem , but the fastest way is to check compression in each cylinder and crank case pressure .

James , Shade Tree Mechanic

Its more then likely a wheel bearing. Try taking it down the highway and turning left and right erratically. Almost like a swerve. If you hear the noise I would put money down on the wheel bearing.

Depends what the rattling is really... If it's the engine , could need a valve adjustment... I've also heard of torque converters make a rattle when going bad, but only when in drive or reverse

Could be low on compression, or torque converter may be slipping

Need to check for codes. Need a scanner hooked up and test drive to be able to see what happening. Hopefully someone did not add the wrong fluid because this could contaminate and destroy all rubber parts in the brake system and cause swelling issues.

No Cabin Air filter listed in NAPA's catalogs.

you may just need to change a fuse or two

I have seen once before that the fuse box was bad on a 2003 Dodge 3500. I had power in and nothing out. We had to replace the box. Not cheap! Hope it is simple like a loose connection though. I think I had to pull the inner fender on the drivers side to access the bottom of the fuse box. Pain in the ****, but...

Go on youtube and it shows you how.

Try this.

James, Since you are pulling a vacuum to draw the fuel to the fuel pump a very small pin hole will cause the pump to not draw fuel. On my Cummins I connect a fuel line to the tank side of fuel pump and ran it into a pail with diesel fuel to verify an air leak in the line to the tank. The ECM electronics control module on mine a 1999 turns the pump on. You could use a jumper 12 volt to the pump verify it is getting 12 volts. You should be able to hear it running. I replace the factory fuel pump on mine with a Fass pump and used a small relay to power the Fass pump without using the ECM and it works great. Keith (waymaker10)

Check the crankshaft sensor. any codes?

may be a check valve letting warm expanded fuel to slowly leak back to the tank causing hard start. When starting cold its harder to move the cold thick fluid. Check into it. Good luck..

Hi, if you don't have a manual, you can get a free download here: http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/

The lightning bolt indicates a fault in the electronic throttle control. It is likely the rheostat/potentiometer in the accelerator position sensor is dirty or worn out. I have pasted info on the part below from autozone.com. If you replace the sensor, be sure to follow the calibration procedure at the end of the installation instructions. Please let me know if you have any questions and thanks for using FixYa.

Operation
The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) assembly is located under the vehicle battery tray. A cable connects the assembly to the accelerator pedal. A plastic cover with a movable door is used to cover the assembly.


NOTE The APPS is used only with the 5.7L V-8 engine.

The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) is a linear potentiometer. It provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with a DC voltage signal proportional to the angle, or position of the accelerator pedal. The APPS signal is translated (along with other sensors) to place the throttle plate (within the throttle body) to a pre-determined position.
A mechanical cable is used between the accelerator pedal and the APPS assembly. Although a cable is used between the pedal and APPS, a mechanical cable is not used at the throttle body. Throttle plate position is electrically determined.
The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) assembly is located under the vehicle battery tray. A cable connects the assembly to the accelerator pedal. A plastic cover with a movable door is used to cover the assembly.


NOTE The APPS is used only with the 5.7L V-8 engine.

The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) is a linear potentiometer. It provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with a DC voltage signal proportional to the angle, or position of the accelerator pedal. The APPS signal is translated (along with other sensors) to place the throttle plate (within the throttle body) to a pre-determined position.
A mechanical cable is used between the accelerator pedal and the APPS assembly. Although a cable is used between the pedal and APPS, a mechanical cable is not used at the throttle body. Throttle plate position is electrically determined.

Removal & Installation
The APPS is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the sensor, plastic housing and cable. The APPS assembly is located under the vehicle battery tray. Access to APPS is gained from over top of left / front tire.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
2. Disconnect APPS cable at accelerator pedal.
3. Remove wheel house liner at left / front wheel.
4. Gain access to APPS electrical connector by opening swing-down door.
5. Disconnect electrical connector.
6. Remove 3 mounting bolts.
7. Remove APPS assembly from battery tray.
8. If cable is to be separated at APPS, unsnap cable clip from ball socket. Release cable from plastic housing by pressing on small cable release tab.

To Install:

1. Install Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) cable to accelerator pedal. Refer to Accelerator Pedal Removal / Installation.
2. Connect electrical connector to APPS.
3. If necessary, connect cable to APPS lever ball socket (snaps on).
4. Snap APPS cable cover closed.
5. Position APPS assembly to bottom of battery tray and install 3 bolts.
6. Install wheelhouse liner.
7. The 5.7L V-8 engine is equipped with a fully electronic accelerator pedal position sensor. If equipped with a 5.7L, also perform the following 3 steps:
   1. Connect negative battery cable to battery.
   2. Turn ignition switch ON, but do not crank engine.
   3. Leave ignition switch ON for a minimum of 10 seconds. This will allow PCM to learn electrical parameters.
      NOTE The DRB III Scan Tool may also be used to learn electrical parameters. Go to the Miscellaneous menu, and then select ETC Learn.
      
   
   
8. If the previous step is not performed, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be set.
9. If necessary, use a proper scan tool to erase any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) from PCM.

You should check out www.reliable-store.com they have info on repair, service, wiring diagram, electrical diagram, fuse diagram, torque specs, troubleshooting, PCV, gear box, owner's/service/repair/parts manual, fault codes, error codes, etc everything on all vehicles. must check it out

I've had it happen to me more than once and I fix the issue over 50 x what's going on if your fuel pump is going out it's not going out it's already out and once you replace your fuel pump and your fuel filter your car should be back to normal home skillet