20 Most Recent 2005 Mazda 3 Questions & Answers

This can happen for a number of reasons, especially after a replacement is installed on the transmission side. From my research online and doing this irl, ive discovered that if the torque converter is not seated properly, it can push on the flexplate and cause it to hit the starter. This can also happen if different year transmissions are used, as Ive discovered there is about 1/16 inch difference in them despite being the exact same transmission/engine and model. What I have seen for a resolution to this issue, is to either replace the starter, or pull it out and grind off the 1/16 inch from the blades so they no longer "zing" across the flexplate while it is running/starting. There is also the suggestion to shim the starter to fix the issue, but to my mind, shims would push it further from the flexplate in the wrong direction, away from where they mate. It seems like shaving off some of the distance on the starter teeth would be the best way to fix it.Additionally a number of folks have bought starters from AutoZone that were just garbage and were not disengaging properly after engaging the flexplate. I think the least likely of scenarios, although still something to be aware of, is that any of the flexplate or torque converter bolts are loose or not torqued to spec will cause very slight wobble in the rotation and make a similar grinding sound.

Help here in various sites. I presume you mean the rear wheel axle nut. https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Mazda+2.+Rear+drum+brake+spindle+nut+torque ..

Question edited for clarity and fix typos. Question moved to model category. You are subscribing to the "let's try replacing this" method of car repair. It doesn't work and is expensive. Your vehicle has a sophisticated computer system, and you just connect a professional grade scan tool computer to it and it will give you a code. The code tells you what is wrong, and from there you can search the fix. There was nothing wrong with the starter motor, fuses and relays can be tested. If your Crankshaft Sensor was made in China or in Mexico, 2 weeks can be the average lifespan on a faulty one! Only buy OEM Sensors as they are the most important parts of making your vehicle run efficiently. https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

in the passenger side fuse box

Could be the relay for the lowbeams is faulty, if your DRL's are your lowbeams, then your DRL Unit could be bad. Also did you blow a fuse cuz a random surge could blow the fuse

it turns out that you can install your own code and remove or change it
so i have removed the previous and installed my own

no not compatible

I have the wiring from two front ends of a Mazda 3 that are different. I'm looking for the diagram to match the good car. There are 3 connections. What info do you need?

check the air filter today, could be the issue.

possibly or a bad ground wire

I think that the drivers motor is on a separate fuse to the others because you can still make the drivers window go down after you turn off the ignition. Check the fuses.

The clutch is hydraulic, you need to replace the slave and master cylinder.

On this website, you find fuse box diagram and description for Mazda 3 (2005) Mazda 3 2004 2005 fuse box diagram Auto Genius

first step is to have the fault codes read so that you have an idea of what is wrong next is to have the transmission oil changed as dirty oil will cause that sort of fault find an accredited service center with mazda experience or go to an accredited automatic shop for a service f the transmission it will be servo/solenoids or oil problems

undo the tyres take the caliper off need to rewind the piston on caliper back. need a tool to rewind back the piston change pads and refit

check stabiliser links