Whirlpool duet - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Hello Shane, welcome to FixYa.

Based on your information posted..."control locked" mode and I do not know how to unlock it" ...this is a fairly common problem with these washers (including Whirlpool, Kitchen Aid, Maytag, Amana, (some)Kenmore to name a few built by Whirlpool) I hear about both on-line and doing on-site service.

The solution, however is usually pretty simple. As long as your washer is indeed the Whirlpool GHW9150 give this a try and let me know how it goes.

Press and hold the "END OF CYCLE /CYCLE SIGNAL" button as you count to 15...this will reset the control.

Good luck. Let me know how you make out as I said and if I can help you in any manner going forward I will do whatever I can.

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Regards,

Macmarkus :)

FYI: The pump cleanout is located on the front of the machine, bottom right corner. There are only three screws holding the bottom cover on. It is easy to get to if you prop it up a few inches off the ground. Just thought this would be helpful as I just did this as of 5 min ago. Should take 10 min. or less.

Is the door firmly closed? Open the door and close it firmly. If the pause button is really stuck, you will need to repair/replace the board.

That is what is supposed to happen. You turn it on to a program, the water comes in and it washes the clothes. I think we must be missing some information? Some wild guesses in this link https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+Duet+Washer.+The+hot+water+just+runs+into+my+washer+when+I+turn+it+on ..

Contact this parts supplier for free repair advice and needed parts. More than 3 million appliance parts lawn mower parts air conditioner parts...

you need to run several cycles of cold water only to delute all of the suds, does your unit call for the special detergent?

Platinum WTW8800YW IT IS NOT A CAR MOVED YAH.

It is not related to moisture directly by any chance. If END OF CYCLE does not work. it can be short circuit inside which can cause this. Moisture can cause short circuit or the whole control board may be faulty.

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




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google reset of motor or see if schematic inside case

"F02" is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be generated as a secondary error. This is an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:

1. Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
2. Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
3. Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.

To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump


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O.K. Is the water draining out properly? If the filter is blocked then your washing will be churning in dirty water as the machine will drain for a maximum time then rinse etc. in the used water.

Moved to Whirlpool Washing Machines Category. I see you met our Computer Guru Larry :>D He hates his when his department gets cluttered with non-computer posts. Details on cleaning the filter in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=wfw9550wl00+clean+filter ..

I have a 9200SQ Whirlpool duet.  It might be similar.  I think the bleach and fabric dispensers work on the siphon principal--once the level gets above a certain point they will then siphon out until almost nothing is left.  They should not start to siphon until extra water is directed into them during the correct cycle.   It is possible that they are starting to siphon early because 1. the washer is not level, 2. water is being added to the dispenser during the wrong cycle 3.  You put too much liquid into the dispenser and it started the siphon. 
Note:  You should not peek in the dispenser during the washer cycles because it might interrupt the "siphon"action and leave residual bleach or fabric softener in the dispensers.

Hi,
When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...

Check out this tip I wrote about the noise and vibration that front loadwashers can make..

Washer Problems Washer noise when spinning
heatman101

Does the sewer drain line have a trap at the bottom that prevents sewer gas from entering the room? If the smell seems to be coming from the washer itself, run a wash cycle empty with a cup of baking soda, detergent and hot water to clean the interior.

sorry no reset on that model but check the outlet

I just took apart my WFW94HEXW2 to clean the pump filter. Here's how: Take off the top panel by first removing the three screws attaching it to the back of the washer. Remove the detergent dispenser by pulling it out while pressing on the indicated tab. Take off the control panel by removing the four screws holding it. Two screws are Torx-20 where the detergent dispenser was. The other two are at the top of each corner and are 1/4 inch hex-head, as are all the others in this procedure. If you're careful you need not detach the wires from the control panel. Just take the wires our of the first two clips so you have enough slack to rest the control panel on top of the washer. Pop out the spring-loaded retaining wire that's holding the door bellows to the front panel. Remove all seven screws from the front panel, three at the top and four at the bottom. Again if you are careful you need not detach the wires to the front panel. Simply lift the panel off the retaining tabs and swing it out like a door with hinges on the right. Keep slack in the wires and securely prop up the front panel. You now have access to the water pump and filter. The filter unscrews so you can clean it and its holder. Reassembly is a matter of reversing the above steps.

Hi, i'm pretty sure that this would seem to suggest that the pump maybe faulty or that there is a blockage, arm yourself with a large bucket or bowl and take the drain hose from the machine gently lowering it to below the washing machine tub level, make sure the drain hoseis quite flat or level as you do this, lift the hose if you need to stop the water because the bucket is full, empty the bucket and start again until no more water runs, then set about checking the filter for blockages or anything that maybe fouling the pump, if all is clear then it could be a suspect pump,if not clear all debris clean the filter re-insert it and make sure the drain hose is back in place, try the machine on a cycle,let it fill and see if it empties(pump runs), if not, the machine will not take in any further fresh water or do a main spin because there is water trapped in the machine. so you will have to go through the manual drain procedure again as above and try a new pump, there is also the possiblity it could be the main control board or faulty control loom.

If in doubt look for a washing machine technician that maybe able to give you a free quote.

Hope this helps.

F6 code is an issue with the motor drive tachometer.

Most often this is caused by poor connections at the machine control or motor controller. Locate the main machine control by removing the top panel and the motor control by removing the rear panel. Remove each connector, one at time, and reinstall. If this does not work, you likely have a faulty control.


E1 means that the thermistor is open and needs to be replaced. The connections can be loose but the most likely cause of an E1 error is a bad thermistor.

If you're comfortable and confident in your do-it-yourself skills and have access to a volt/ohm meter you can check and replace this part yourself.

For replacement parts - head on over to SearsPartsDirect.com - PartSelect.com - or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.

Hope helps.