Kenmore Elite - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 9

you can always tip back and remove the hoses from pump and check inside

there are thermostats that will pop if the dryer runs to hot,a dryer needs to be pulled apart at least once a year to be cleaned out,all it does is move air,if the vent line is blocked or lint builds up in the duct that the lint filter slides into the thermal fuse or high limit thermostat will pop as a safety,if you don't clean the dryer and vent line the new part will pop again.also the door switch could be broke or the belt could have snapped,some dryers have a safety switch,if the belt snaps the switch will open and the dryer won't start.so first thing you'll need a meter,unplug the dryer,remove the bottom panel,pull out the lint filter,remove the metal duct that the filter slides into,on the top of the blower wheel housing you'll see a white part,this is the thermal fuse,you have to remove at least one of the wires,check it with the meter,if you send the full model number i can look up your dryer,most likely the fuse will be a 3392519 thermal fuse,like i said if the fuse is bad you have to clean out the dryer and vent line or the fuse will pop again.and check the door switch,open the door,push the switch in and out if it makes a clicking sound most likely it's good.let me know what you find and send model number.

if you look at the console you should see a button with a lock next to it and it should tell you told hold the button in for three second to lock it and hold it for three seconds to take it out

www.sears.com will have the manual for it

If this is a top loading machine; remove the trim strips on the left and right ends of the dash. Then you'll see a screw at the bottom of each corner(left and right). remove (AND KEEP) the screws. Now the dash will lift and fold back.

Of course the motor can be replaced. I don't think you have a motor sensor on a top loader. What bearings are you talking about? Normally the motor coupler wears out many times before the motor goes bad. The coupler connects the motor to the transmission. Go to www.sears.com/parts and put your model in and you'll see all your parts.

Either the cylenoid to let the water in is bad. Or the hose from the dispenser to the drum is clogged. Most common with powder detergents. Some really hot water poured into the dispenser may solve the problem.

Most likely you have a bad pressure switch or hose

Check to see if the water is hot when it's pumped out, if it's not then your heater element may need replaced, if it is then the temp sensor may be the fault. :)

This usually occurs if the washer is overloaded. If this has happened with washing in it then just put your hand in and readjust the washing and start again. Also make sure the washing machine is level under empty load. Adjust the levelling screws if necessary.

Water should just reach bottom of wm door .

Have you pulled the drain filter out? It is located beneath the door behind the lower panel. Remove the lower panel to access it. Once you see it put a bucket on the floor to catch the water if any comes out. The filter just unscrews. We want to make certain there is nothing trapped in there preventing the water from draining. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

F1 could be a water valve faulty.

Can you tell from the sound if the noise is near the bottom or not? The sound could be from something stuck in the pump. If you can post the whole model number, I can find more information..

could be loose coins, pens, or other non-removed pocket objects.Check your drum very closely particularly around the bottom.

Believe it or not the agitator will come off. Look under the fabric softener cup. There should be a fastener (nut or bolt) to loosten. Give the cup a good cleaning while you have it off. Once the nut is removed you can work the agitator off.

www.appliancerepair.net/kenmore-washing-machine-repair.html

Most likely . Timmer mecanism going bad. www.appliancerepair.net/kenmore-washing-machine-repair.html

THERMAL FUSE? OR BAD CONTROL BORAD?

I can't find a manual online, but I'll give it a try. Most washing machines have a possibility to open the door, when the power goes down. For a front opener, you should drain the water firs. Then most of the time there is a little pin on the back of the machine you should press in a hole (also on the back) and then you can open the door. To meme sure it is like that, check the manual. I hope this will help.