Kenmore Elite - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 8

Sure it's not Dl(L) ? which means Door Lock not working .....simples :)

washer f11 YouTube

I would put in some bleach and clothes that can handle it without damage and run a wash cycle. Leave the door open when you are done using the machine, or at least un-latched. There are commercial products, but bleach will do the same thing. You have stuff growing on the gizzards inside the drum, and bleach will likely kill them. They like dark & humid places.. guess what... that's your washer with the door kept latched.

could be that the new part didn't click into place properly.

Check the drive belt and pump also the spin solnoiod.

Drain error, most likely. See here: http://www.fixya.com/support/r1484065-f21_error_code_whirlpool_duet_kenmore

This code f21 is a long drain error msg. Try this link

pull it out about a foot or two away from back wall and just tip it backwards. remove two bolts holding belt guard off and slip belt off and new one back on.

Make sure the hoses are tightened and in good shape. The drain hose may also be cracked. (Mine is plastic and cracked during moving.)

a f-20 error code deals with the draining system mainly the long draining or lack of. open access door for pump in front , drain liquid with black drain hose. have something to absorb any water left in pump area. you can avoid this if possibly tipping the entire washer machine backwards and lean it against rear wall so the extra water that remains will be back towards the rear of unit and stays in side so you can open pump trap area to inspect it for any derbies blocking flow. look with light inside making sure nothing is in it. also use finger to feel around opening inside rt. where pump impeller is to check for turning freely and no unusual movement or blocked movement. if all checks out ok then run a spin/drain cycle to listen for unusual load noise or noises. this would mean a replacement pump needs to be installed. listen to make sure pump is being activated during this cycle request. further diagnoses would require disassembly of front control panel,front panel and door boot front door boot spring and rubber part of boot would need to be removed for access to check voltage at pump connection to ensure diagnosis that pun is the issue. no voltage to pump could be due to bad connection at main control board or the main control its self. hope this helps you and thank you for taking the time to read this.

"F6" is a Motor Speed error problem. It is commonly attributed to a broken or slipped drive belt, defective Drive Motor, or bad Motor Control Unit (MCU). The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608706-f06_error_code

First, remove the back panel of the unit and make sure the drive belt is not broken, or has not slipped off the drum pulley.

Then, remove the top panel of the washer and check all the connector plugs between the Drive Motor, MCU and Central Control Unit (CCU). Check for loose connections and then unplug each connector and plug them back in (one at a time) to ensure they are snug and making good contact. The top panel comes off by removing the three screws that hold it in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off.

NOTE: You only need to check the connectors that affect the drive motor and MCU circuitry.

The MCU has a tachometer mounted on it. If it is determined to be the cause of the problem, it is considered part of the MCU and cannot be replaced separately. The MCU is not serviceable and will require replacement.

Next, check the motor windings to ensure they are reading the proper resistance. Followed by continuity checks of all the interconnecting wiring between the drive motor, MCU and CCU. You should not need a service manual because each one of these washers comes with a technical data sheet.

For more in depth troubleshooting tips refer to your tech sheet located inside the washer behind the lower toe panel. You will need to locate and remove the screws under the bottom front edge of the toe panel. Once removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't located directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. The tech sheet includes all error codes, test points, diagnostic procedures and helpful illustrations to assist in troubleshooting and repair of your washer.

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Check the Drain hose has not come adrift. check for a split in the doorseal or come away. These need to be done by an engineer: - Check internal hoses have not split or come away, hole in drum (unusual) If it is a sudden flood it may just be a fill valve is jammed open. Turn taps off and call an engineer to replce it.

Here is a page tells you what to do to try to fix the issue. As it says if it persists Have it looked at. Page 23 of Kenmore Washer User Manual ManualsOnline com

ok...run unit on rinse and spin only,,we need cold water,,if unit still shows sud error make sure drain hose is not kinked,,,if we still have a sud condiction or error ,,remove toe panel and clean filter.good luck

I have the same problem with my piece of junk Oasis. I found that if you hold down the button for up to 20-30 seconds it will finally start. Sometimes I need to unplug the washer to do a power reset or something. The electronics along with many other problems makes this the worst investment I've ever made. All I've done is fix it since I got it. And I paid serious money for it. I think they got to fancy with the design IMHO

Hi Holly...your control panel maybe in LOCKED mode.... close detergent tray....press OPTIONS and SELECT buttons at the same time for about 3 seconds to unlock. I hope this works for you. Regards, Dennis

These units spin at a high RPM. With just a few clothes, especially jeans and sweat items, the drum is off balance and therefore will have the above symptoms. These newer units weren't designed to run just a few items. It's a full load or nothing. It's an energy conservation thing.

Well a few things, first has it always done this to your cloths? if so then should return it or try too. sears dose not stand by there products like they used to and try to be stearn about a poor 30days return policy. anything after thirty days they wash there hands of it and will frustrate you until you vow never to buy anything from them again. " Don't feel alone". So here is your options now, write a letter to this address:3333 Beverly Rd, Hoffman Estates, IL 60192 and write to them about your experience with sears. Tell them everything about how you have been treated and the customer service or the lack of. Now for the issue, it sounds like not enough water during cycles and or to little soap. if water lines at connections are not restricted and not using burst resistant hoses, then i would have to say main controls not allowing enough water for cycles and should be replaced. Now in saying that.I feel as a consumer that i payed for a brand new washer that after all that money you had spent, that they should replace the unit and in doing so should please the customer, "you" and get you your exchange for the agitator model and refund any differences due to their product malfungtioning. Hope this helps you and sorry about sears and there policies, They have lost many customer due to not caring about what real customer service is. Its just about the money and not keeping customers loyalties. There are other companies out there that really want your service and will treat you like a person and not a wallet to con money out of it. good luck to you!

Are all four legs firmly against the floor? If you shake the top around can you hear a couple of the legs tapping the floor?

Your water level switch is bad. Take 3 screws off the back, lift cover move toward the back You will find a small a small black tube going to a small box, that is your water level switch. The part number should be on it. Should be FSP then the number. If you have trouble call a service tech.