Chevrolet Vehicle Parts & Accessories - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

To disarm your alarm so your 1999 Camry will crank, look under your dash and find the little black box, unplug it, you will not have an alarm, but you can crank your car. You do not have to spend $100 to fix this cheap after market alarm system that is a pain in the neck!!

heres how to remove wiring and ignition switch!!!

Que Paso!! Porque no Sale Aire de las Rendijas de mi Auto

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/25/f9/97/large/0900c1528025f997.gif We Are Here To Help !!!

First thing we need to do before anything is to remove the little feet that the ash tray sits on when it is open, and bend their tabs out of the way so we can open the ash tray to its fullest open position. To do this, you'll need to play contorsionist a bit, and pull out the little rubber pads from behind the ash tray, then carefully bend the tabs back into the side wall of the ash tray assembly. You can refer to my pic below to see which tab I mean -- And you can also see the remains of the rubber foot in the background . Once both of these tabs have been bent out of the way, you can then take the ash tray door, and pull it down towards the floor as much as you can. Doing this will expose a small pin head sized hole in the side of the ash tray, and also a rounded triangle in the sides of the assembly housing, with a small notch at the top. The springs sit inside of these four holes / notches. Ok, so now that you've got your springs ready to go, its time to install them. You want to take the end of the spring that has a little bit of a bend to it, and slide it into the hole. This will keep the spring from falling out in a few seconds. Once you've got the springs into the side of the ash tray, you'll want to take a skinny screwdriver, and use it to push the spring up and behind the ash tray where you can grab it with your finger. Then both slightly close, and move the spring into it's proper slot at the top of the triangle. Repeat for the other side, and close the ash tray. It should hold itself shut, if not, make sure that you've got the coils of the springs oriented towards the firewall. After you've got that finished, then bend the little tabs for the pads back to where they were, and re-install the little pads. You're good to go! We Are Here To Help !!! __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

The Chevrolet Malibu is among the many Chevy cars that come with remote and keyless entry. With this technology, you can control your car's door locks, your trunk and your panic alarm from as far as a couple hundred feet away in the street or in a parking lot. Programming will take you only minutes from your driver's seat, and you will have the remote and the system transmitter ready to use right away. 1 Enter your Malibu and close all the doors. 2 Insert your key into the ignition. Cycle the key to "On," then "Off." Remove the key from the ignition. 3 Press and hold the "Unlock" tab on the driver's side door as you insert and remove the key from the ignition three times. 4 Release the "Unlock" tab. Press and hold both the "Lock" and "Unlock" buttons on the remote until the car beeps twice. 5 Repeat Step 4 for any additional remotes. Remove your key from the ignition to end the programming sequence.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5feL05TyLtI

Pre-Removal

• Front exhaust pipe

REMOVE

1. Starter terminal and connector.
2. Starter motor.

INSTALL

1. Starter motor.
2. Starter terminal and connector.

Post-Installation

• Front exhaust pipe

Fig. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the starter motor mounting-2.5L engine To install:

1. Clean both surfaces of the starter motor flange and the rear plate. This is important since the starter grounds through its case and the transaxle flange to which it attached. Some remanufactured starters may have paint on these areas which should be cleaned off before installation. Install the starter motor onto the transaxle and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20-25 ft. lbs. (26-33 Nm).
2. Connect the electrical harness connectors to the starter.
3. Connect the negative battery cable and check the starter for proper operation.

2.5L Engine See Figures 8 through 14

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the left strut tower. The ground cable is equipped with an insulator grommet which should be placed on the stud to prevent the negative battery cable from accidentally grounding.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Loosen, but do not remove, the exhaust pipe-to-manifold retaining nuts.
4. Place a drain pan under the oil filter to prevent oil spillage, then remove the oil filter.

Fig. Fig. 8: Loosen the exhaust pipe-to-manifold retaining nuts to provide removal clearance for the starter Fig. Fig. 9: Location of the positive battery cable nut (1) and the push-on solenoid connector (2) Fig. Fig. 10: After removing the oil filter for access, unfasten the retaining nut and disconnect the positive battery cable Fig. Fig. 11: Disengage the push-on starter solenoid connector

1. Remove the positive battery cable retaining nut and battery cable from the starter.
2. Disconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
3. Remove the 3 bolts that attach the starter unit to the transaxle.
4. Pull the exhaust pipe down just enough to provide clearance for the starter motor. The exhaust pipe does not have to be separated from the pipe-to-manifold threaded studs.
5. Remove the starter unit from the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 12: Remove the 3 starter motor-to-transaxle housing attaching bolts Fig. Fig. 13: Pull the exhaust pipe down just enough to provide removal clearance for the starter Fig. Fig. 14: Carefully remove the starter motor from the vehicle To install:

1. Install the starter unit onto the transaxle and install the 3 mounting bolts.
2. Tighten the mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

Before reconnecting any wiring to the starter solenoid, clean the wire terminals of any dirt or corrosion.

1. Reconnect the positive battery terminal and retaining nut to the starter solenoid post. Tighten the retaining nut to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
2. Reconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
3. Reinstall the oil filter.
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

http://www.criticalpower.com/custom/uploads/2017/06/PerkinsEngineNumberGuide.pdf

run the fault codes as the EVAP system may not be venting properly

Before going into complex or expensive repair or troubleshooting, check the wiring connectors for the ABS sensors. The connector is usually on or near the wheel backing plate. These this can loosen, corrode, and just plain get crudded up. Disconnect the wire and clean to connection. If that works - good on ya; if not I'd look to the relay as the issue. It has internal contacts that can corrode from arcing during use. They can't generally be repaired and relay replacement is advised.

I will assume the engine is turning over. Are you getting fuel up to the fuel rail? When you turn the key on, but not to start, do you hear the fuel pump hum for a moment before it turns off? Have you checked all the fuses?

Crankshaft position sensor is in the front of the engine under the harmonic balancer on the right side.

If you have fire and fuel to the throttle body check the plugs and see if there is fuel on the plugs if none remove the o2 sensor from the exhaust and see if it starts. If it does the cat or the muffler is plugged. When these get plugged they put back pressure on the engine and won't allow the fuel to the cylinders.

Look under the dash behind the glove compartment to the left. To do so you will need to remove the glove compartment to see them on the top of the heater housing.

sounds like the ecm has it in limp home mode. If the truck is later than 1996 you can put a scanner on the down link and read the code. If not go on you tube and see the video on how to check prior models for the code.

Is the dist. all new inside and out. There is a module in the dist. that can cause your problem and a secondary coil on the shaft of the dist. but I would think no fire would be more of a module problem. You can take it to a Autozone and they can check to see if it is good.

Be sure the fan belt is not slipping and if it is tight then you might want to change the temp. sw. also check the wire to the temp sw. and make sure it is not shorting out on the engine. In addition, the gauge maybe miss reading but it don't sound likely from your post.

The CEL light will set a history code. This code can be retrieved through the OBD II connector under the dash, near the steering column. Both Auto Zone, and Advance will read codes for you Carte blanche.

run the fault codes and look for problem heated oxygen sensor ( HO2S) in the exhaust manifold , or problem oxygen sensor (O2S) after the cat converter, problem EGR system or problem cat converter