AEG Washing Machines - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Problems with the electrical power supply, the appliance remains in the alarm state until achieve conditions of work, and stabilizes the voltage and frequency, and the machine resets quenching (controller to the position "0"). Obviously there is a problem in the electrical network so my suggestion is to call your local electrician or try connect power supply from any other room. Dado

Family error code E70 is shown to the customer. In service mode could be: E71 or E74 E70 error code could be: faulty NTC sensor, wrong position of NTC sensor or to much limescale on it and finaly wiring between NTC and electronic. Dado

Family error code E50 means a problem with the washing motor. Family error code E70 means a problem with the NTC sensor. In my experience, E50 is most common fault in worn carbon brushes. But in any case family error code E50 is shown to the customer. In service mode could be: E51,52,53 and 54. The same applies to family E70 error code that will be displayed in service mode as error code E71 or E74. E50 error code could be: motor winding, power board, tachymetric generator, motor relay on power board, wiring between motor and power board and wiring between tachymetric generator and electronic. E70 error code could be: faulty NTC sensor, wrong position of NTC sensor or to much limescale on it and finaly wiring between NTC and electronic. Dado

either the pump is blocked so cant pump water out so stops program.or brushes in motor worn down(both cheap fixes)

No spin, or lite spin try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Its unlikely the machine is separately fused because that would entail the user to tamper with something. If there is power to the machine and this is tested by a competent person then there may be a failure of the main circuit board in the machine. Go online type in your machine details and find an AEG specialist. A local appliance engineer would be the option. It may only be the ON/OFF switch and easily fixed. I take it you have checked the plug fuse?

erroe e20

Spin again and check your filter

try here?? http://www.aeg.co.uk/support/manuals

Its an anti flood warning. generally it means something has leaked into the cabinet and water has triggered the safety float on the floor of the cabinet. You will probably find a small leak somewhere which has allowed water to gather under the machine. IE/ Hose, front gasket, pump etc.. If you tip the machine backwards to drain all the water out of the base, it will probably work until the safety switch triggers again. Locate and fix the leak before it gets worse and causes some damage.

Could be the heater element or the thermal fuse which is wired in series with the element. The Thermal fuse is a safety device which cuts out power to the heater if something goes wrong with it ot if the heater comes on with no water in the machine. Also check the wiring connections to the heater as well. Sometimes, they can get hot and burn off.

you have a bad solinoid which needs to be replaced

Check no damage to inner drum also the Paddles are not loose/ damaged.

probly door inter lock

check door interlock

It could be the main shaft on the drum or misalignment. There is some flexibility, but not a lot. Check for worn belts, pulley wheels, and other attachments.

Are there any consumer fuses that might have blown?

Hi Cath. You probably have a faulty Inlet Valve. This is the one which introduces the water through the Softener drawer (As you said) The other one which seems OK flushes the detergent into the machine. It may be a double inlet and only the rinse part is faulty. Not a big job for a Technician Good luck Nomess

exact same problem here, we had power cut and after power came on the pump was continuously running with error EF3 showing. This has happened before - design error with AEG

Spare part can be ordered from an authorized service. Dado