Rooftop AC #991762256. shuts down after 5-7 minutes. We are running off 110 shore power. 15amp. Breakers shuts down power. When we do same operation on the other rooftop, it does not shut off breaker. On the first unit, we can restart, but it shuts down each time in 5-7 minutes.

I would think it's not wired in right. The Shore power sensor circuit may be tied in to Generator power. Control panel would bypass this shore power sensing circuit.

I would be checking the main breakers on the panel to insure one didnt trip when you added generator electric. is there a breaker on the outside line at the box you may be missing? Also keep in mind, although uncommon, breakers do BREAK and need replacing. are you competent enough to use a volt meter to check the hot leads on the box and at your unit breaker box to insure you are getting power into the unit? In some older units the switch between land power and generator power was to manually throw breaker switches but automatic processors have replace them now... I would say start at the residential plug in and verify power is where it should be along the route of the supply cord...from the meter forward... if you have a converter plug, say from the 220V 30 amp that you are probably drawing down to 110V household, stick that on the meter and plug in your toaster to insure there is power coming in....IF YOU DONT HAVE A METER AVAILABLE... otherwise...test test test... your generator probably broke a circuit somewhere... now just to find it..

120-
VOLT
AC
SYSTEM
The following electrical components (if so equipped) will only operate when your
RV is connected to shore power: 120 to
12-volt power converter, air conditioner,
120-volt refrigerator, microwave oven, television(s), fireplace and appliances
plugged into convenience receptacles.

SECTION 6 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM JAYCO TOWABLE
6-2
120-
VOLT
CIRCUIT
BREAKERS
The 120-volt AC circuit breakers located in
side the main load center protect all
120-volt wiring and components in the RV fr
om circuit overloads and short circuits.
Should a circuit overload or short circui
t occur the circuit breaker protecting the
affected circuit will "trip" preventing the flow of electricity through that circuit.
If a circuit breaker trips, shut "off"
the appliance on that circuit (i.e., power
converter etc.) and allow the circuit breaker to cool down for a brief period of time.
After the cooling down period, reset the circuit breaker by moving its lever "off" and
then back to the "on" position. If the circuit breaker re-trips or frequently trips,
contact your dealer to have the electrical problem diagnosed and repaired.
A circuit breaker identification label is permanently attached to the inside surface
of the 120-volt load center.
Maintenance and Replacement
At the beginning of camping season, inspect the circuit breakers and replace as
needed. Test by turning each circuit breaker "off" and back "on". Circuit breakers
are wearable parts and must be replaced
as needed, as part of your RV
maintenance. If you have any questions, consult your dealer.
Please contact your dealer for repair assistance when replacing circuit breakers.
CONVERTER
The power converter converts 120-volt AC power to useable 12-volt DC power
when the shore power cord is connected to an external power source.
The converter has a built-in protective thermal breaker that will shut it down should
overheating occur. Overheating can be
caused by operating the converter above
its maximum power output for an extended period of time, or by an obstruction to
its ventilation air flow. To reduce converter heat build keep unnecessary 12-volt
lights and motors turned "off"
.
Keep the converter cooling fins and fan clear of
obstructions.
Inspection and maintenance
If the 12-volt power converter is not working (auxiliary battery not being charged)
check the reverse polarity fuse(s) in the converter fuse panel.
There are no
customer serviceable parts inside the converter case and the
manufacturer's warranty will be void if
the case has been removed
. If you
have further concerns contact your dealer.

No - the outside temperature will not shut the AC down.
You say the outlet has power? Does it have the needed 220 volts? Most of the time 220 volts is on one switch, (that operates both 110 volt legs of power at the same time). - but sometimes each leg is on a separate breaker and if "one leg" trips you will still have power at the outlet (110 volts) but you won't have the needed 220 volts. While this is not likely - it is possible - so I would want to test the outlet with a voltage tester and determine the voltage. You might try checking in your breaker box and seeing if another breaker (110volt) is tripped. The same thing applies if you are dealing with fuses instead of breakers - determine the voltage at the outlet - and if you don't have 220 and only have 110 then look for a blown fuse or as I said above - a breaker tripped.
If you do have 220 at the outlet and nothing is running - I would be looking for an inline fuse of some sort within in the unit. Many of the newer units have them and they are usually easy to spot and all you have to do is to unscrew the fuse holder and replace the blown fuse. Be sure to have the power off when handling fuses.
Note: Be aware that while breakers/fuses can trip and blow without a serious problem going on - they (blown fuses/tripped breakers) are usually a sign of something significantly wrong with the unit.
Good Luck!

I take it you metered for voltage at the shore power outlet, and at the cord end itself where it plugs into the RV, is there a buck/boost transformer..if so does it have a breaker, are there fuses at the inlet receptacle. Are all GFI outlet breakers in the RV checked for normal position?

Try a new fan motor. It runs about $125.00, It will run a few min. then will trip the motor themal switch. you can probably still here the compressor running. It may also trip the breaker on shore power . good luck! the part you are looking for is a 1/3 hp 115vac 2 speed 1580/1020 rpm part number #1468-3069

What else do you have running on hydro while AC is running? Such as coffee maker, microwave, water heater, fridge. That 30 amp breaker is your main breaker I assume, or breaker on pole your plugged in to. Keep in mind your AC will normally draw approx. 15-17+ amps momentarily when compressor kicks in to cool, then drop back to 12-15 amps when running normal. If your AC is drawing too much current, then you would only normally trip 20 amp breaker for AC in your panel. Try switching other appliances to gas operation while running AC, such as water heater, and fridge. Make sure incoming voltage is up to specs as well . (115-120 volts)
If water heater takes 5-8 amps, and fridge takes same when they are calling for power, you'll be close or over the 20amp mark when you consider your on board converter etc. as well. That only leaves approx 10 amps for AC that requires approx 15 amps to run, and up to 20amps when compressor kicks in. If you switch all those other items over to propane, and it still happens, then a current draw test should be done on AC unit to see if perhaps a capacitor is faulty, or possible compressor faulty.

the air filter may be dirty, if thats not it it is the condinser burned up and not pumping freeon

The clicking tells me the AC(hydro) power has been turned off to it. Check all breakers, and make sure if you have another switch on wall, to change from front, to back, or to both, that it is in proper position.

The click that you are hearing is the relay control board in the rooftop unit. This means that you are getting 12V to the board. It sounds like you are not getting 120V to the AC unit. Check the breakers in the breaker panel to make sure they are OK. If they are fine, then turn off the AC for 5 to 10 minutes and try again. There is a thermal protection device in the unit that prevents you from turning it right back on after a shut down. Try putting the thermostat to fan only operation. If the fan does not come on in fan only mode, then you have thrown a breaker.

Hope this helps,

Jeff