Mashine starts by (taking water out i.e the pump is working) THen it does not take water in ! I suspect the electomagnetic valve is faulty ...(at the water enternce) I took the electomagnet off its shaft ! Question ... How I chek if is working If foulty how do I get replacment !

Wash tank air trap blocked?

all draining is done with the water pump
and that is working

could be faulty water level solenoid / valve

but I suspect washing machine timer out of sync /control board

Possible that the hose link to the drain is loose, the drain pump is defective and leaking or the rubber door gasket is faulty. Please take a good view

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If this is a timer controller type then the contacts or the function to move on is faulty and needs a replacement. The inlet valve works to allow water and then the motor is struck on and not moving to the next cycle. Test the controller to confirm, check with a similar type before you order for one.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors or back feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET valve to open up and allow water to flow into. If this does not happen then the voltage at the inlet valve must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.

Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.

If what was meant is the input water supply please check voltage on the inlet valve , if present the valve is faulty , if not the program controller is a suspect and needs a check on the driver. If this is the drain water problem check the voltage at the cycle end on the valve/pump of the drain . If present the valve/pump must be taken out and cleaned or replaced. if not the program controller is a suspect.

dish washers have a fill valve. the water supply line most likly has a net like filter that is stoped up with trash. Or fill valve is bad.
same thing happens to washing mashines. when they start filling up very slow you will TURN OFF water supply and diconect hose, look inside and there is the problem.

My washing machine is Samsung Top loading Model WA80B3, the problem is that the water inlet valve is continuously working all the time during the washing cycle and it does not stop automatically, so I have to run additional drying cycle after washing cycle and after closing the water supply manually

My machine is actually an IW811. But what happened was I checked motor see if it was spinning & confirm it was. But realised instead of pumping water out, it was going back into bowl, went straight to diverter valve, found control solenoid was burnt, was very hot to touch, even though hasn't been operating, only with main power point on. Suspect motor control board faulty as well. Replaced both parts & was fine after that. New contrl board has been upgraded & came with listings of all codes, explaining every code in detail. Specs to test switch, motor & solenoid resistances. But thanks to you guys for pointing me in the right direction, with what code 37 means in the begining.

Plug off the wall. Open up behind, you will find a thin tube, maybe tranparent or black coming down from the control panel to the exit area (pump area) of your machine. Carefully disconnet this from above and blow into it, it should be free, if not clear it, if kinked or broken replace.

If this does not work, its your solenoid valve at the entrance point of your machine, top right, where the water is received. Just change this. If all works fine rate me please.