MY GENERATOR HAS STOP PUTTING OUT VOLTAGE I PULL THE BACK PLATE OFF AND SEENA SEALED BLOCK WITH FOUR WIRES ON ONE SIDE AND TWO GOING OUT THE BLOCK IS CRACKED AND SMEEL THE BURNT. I BELEIVE IT MAY BE THE SURGE PROTECTOR OR EXCITOR . COULD THIS BE THR ONLY PROBLEM WITH MY GENERATOR THE WINDINGS LOOK GOOD.IT STARTED BLINKING THE LIGHTS SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE GOING OUT. IS THIS PART AVAILABLE . 2800 WATT EASTERN STEEL P/N 50538.WHERE CAN I GET PARTS. THANKS ROY MABILE

Its on the side of the block firewall side ... REMOVAL Numbers in text in parenthesis correspond to numbered components in image. Disconnect the wiring harness (1) from the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor pigtail. Securely attach a scrap piece of wire about 36 inches long to the CKP sensor pigtail. Later, this piece will be used as a pull wire to guide the new sensor pigtail back through the same routing. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the oil filter and capture any lost engine oil in a container. Loosen the oil cooler lines at the engine block. Back out the fittings far enough in order to gain sufficient clearance for the sensor pigtail connector to pass between the oil cooler lines and the side of the engine block. Remove the fastening bolt for the CKP sensor (1). Remove the CKP sensor and the O-ring seal from the engine block. Remove the CKP sensor pigtail. Observe the routing of the pigtail. Gently pull the CKP sensor pigtail down through the routing path and out. Guide the pigtail connector along the top of the oil cooler lines around to the side of the engine block. Pass the connector between the lines and the block at the point of the widest gap. Stop when the pull wire is exposed at both ends of the routing path. Disconnect the sensor from the pull wire. INSTALLATION Securely attach the CKP sensor pigtail to the lower end of the pull wire. Pass the pigtail connector between the oil cooler lines and the engine block. Using the pull wire as a guide, pull the sensor pigtail along the top of the oil cooler lines and around to the rear of the engine. Use the pull wire to pull the pigtail into position. Disconnect the pull wire from the sensor pigtail. Connect the sensor pigtail to the harness connector. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the CKP sensor and the engine block. Install the CKP sensor with a new O-ring seal into the engine block. Install the fastening bolt (1) for the CKP sensor. Check the harness for proper routing. Make sure that the wiring cannot come in contact with the exhaust manifold. Tighten the oil cooler lines at the engine block. Install the oil filter. Lower the vehicle. Recheck the engine oil level.

Replacing your pool pump motor
Gather the following items.
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
Circuit tester
Dry towel
Step One
First, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. This means turning off the breaker at the panel box and not just the switch at the pump.
Step Two - Removing the motor assembly
Remove the four hex head bolts which hold the motor assembly to the pump/strainer housing (These bolts may not be visible).
Slide the motor assembly out of the pump/strainer housing, exposing the diffuser. Pull the diffuser of of the seal plate, exposing the impeller. (The diffuser may remain in the pump/strainer housing. To remove, pull it straight out of the strainer housing.)
There will be a gasket or O-ring sealing between the motor mounting bracket and the strainer housing. Inspect this thoroughly and replace if necessary. An economical option would be to purchase a Go-Kit which includes the pump shaft seal and all necessary o-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump.
Step Three
Now, you can lift up the motor with bracket attached to get to the wiring more easily. There may be a bare copper ground wire attached to the outside of the motor that you will need to disconnect. Remove the cover plate on the back of the motor to get access to the wiring. You should have one green wire that is the ground wire and two other wires that are your leads. The lead wires should be black and white but could be any other color except green. Disconnect these wires (they may be attached to a screw, held down by a nut, or clipped on with a terminal clip).
Step Four
Next, you will need to disconnect the conduit (sleeve covering wires between motor and switch or junction box). This usually means unscrewing the compression nut that is screwed on the adaptor which is screwed to the motor. After unscrewing the conduit compression nut, you can pull out the wires from the motor. If you wish to reuse the adaptor, unscrew it from the motor.
Step Five
Now you must remove the impeller from the motor. Remove the volute covering the impeller if it is there. (Some are screwed on). You will need to go to the opposite end of the motor and pop off the plate covering the shaft. The shaft will either have a slot in it for a screw driver or is flattened to allow you to put an open end box wrench on it. This will allow you to unscrew the impeller. You will unscrew in the direction that is opposite to the direction that the veins point at the outside of the impeller. This is the same direction that the motor will rotate the impeller. This may look backwards but the water comes into the center of the impeller and rolls off the veins away from the impeller by centrifugal force. As you take the impeller off, be sure to note how the pump seal is positioned. We highly recommend replacing the pump seal with the purchase of a Go-Kit when replacing the motor.
Step Six
Now you can see the bolts that hold the motor mounting bracket to the motor. Unbolt these, separating the motor mounting bracket from the motor. You are ready to reverse the process to install the new motor.
Step Seven
Important Notes on Reassembly: DO NOT touch the ceramic faces of the seal; This may cause the seal to burn up and leak. Be sure to tighten the impeller completely. Be sure to wire the new motor for 110V or 220V depending on what you have. This may be a simple switch in the motor or you may need to use the wiring diagram on the motor to set for the proper voltage. (Black tracer means the white wire with a black line corkscrewing around it.) Be sure to put the volute back on, aligning properly. Be sure to reconnect the bare copper ground wire to the ground lug on the new motor. When tightening bolts, alternate tightening a few turns at a time to seat evenly or the pump may leak. Fill the strainer housing with water before starting the motor to prime system and prevent damage to seal and impeller.
More Helpful information on how to replace a pool motor
Shaft Seal installation
Clean and lubricate the impeller hub shaft and pump housing seal recess with a dilute solution of non-granulated liquid-type soap
Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean, soft cotton cloth. Press the spring seal assembly onto the impeller hub with black polished surface facing away from impeller.
Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a soft cotton cloth. Lubricate the O-ring on the ceramic seat and press it firmly and evenly into the recess of the seal plate with polished side facing out.
Place the seal plate onto the motor mounting bracket aligning the positioning lug and guide.
Replacing the impeller and diffuser
Slide the motor assembly, with the diffuser in place, into pump/strainer housing, being careful not to dislodge the diffuser.
Fasten assembly to housing using the four bolts. (Be sure housing gasket is in place.) Tighten alternately and evenly

If you have alignment dowels on either the block or trans., this could be blocking the road. Make sure that the input shaft is properly lined up with the pilot bushing. This will be a snug fit and must go in straight.

It sounds like a job for a volt/ohm meter.

I am not familiar with the model but the basic principles are fairly consistent.
Either there is something causing the battery to discharge at a greater rate than the generator can recharge it or more likely the generator simply isn't working or isn't working efficiently.

In order to charge a battery the generator must provide a higher voltage than the battery or current will not flow. Assuming a 12 volt system the voltage of a fully charged and healthy battery is 13.2 volts. The generator must provide a higher voltage and typically would be around 14.5 volts for solid-state or electronic systems and 15.5 volts for electro-mechanical systems.
Scale the voltages up or down for 6 volt or 18 volt or 24 volt systems...

Isolate the battery from any battery-supplied accessories and then with the engine running fairly fast check the voltage across the battery. If only the battery voltage is present it indicates a generator problem.

As well as providing a higher-than-battery voltage the generator and all the associated wiring and connectors must be able to provide the current flow. In the case of problems it is best to go back to basics and carry out a visual check of all the wiring and connections and check the continuity and insulation of the generator windings and wiring, rectifier diodes, brush gear if there is any fitted and earth connections if it is an earth return type system. It is a good idea to use a wiring diagram for reference.

If the generator is a permanent magnet type there have been rare occurrences where a generator has become inefficient due to a loss of magnetism. I repeat this is a rare occurrence and the fault probably lies elsewhere and a systematic approach and reference to a wiring diagram will usually isolate the fault.

Good luck!

The reasons of no power generation:
1. The voltmeter of the control panel is damaged or the wiring is in poor contact. This situation is generally after the diesel generator starts normally, and the voltage on the meter sometimes does not move. It is necessary to use a multimeter to measure the U, V, W, N phases of the motor, and the phases between U, V, and W. The voltage is about 400v, and the voltage between single-phase U, V, W and N is about 230v.

2. The air switch on the electric ball in the diesel generator is damaged: the phenomenon that occurs is that the diesel generator is normal when it is started, and it trips when the load is turned on.

3. Brushed motor equipped with diesel generator: The disadvantage of brushed motor is that demagnetization occurs occasionally, so it is necessary to keep 1-2 pairs of carbon brushes to prevent this situation.

4. The starting elements are not reached: the starting elements of diesel generators refer to the speed of 1500 rpm, frequency of 50HZ, and voltage of 400v. Many users feel that the noise of diesel generators will be very large when this data value is reached, so they reduce the speed by themselves. , the consequence is that the voltage is not enough, the frequency is not enough, and the power is not generated. After a long time, the power of the diesel generator will be insufficient.

5. Damage to the voltage regulating plate: The function of the voltage regulating plate is to adjust the excitation current correspondingly according to the change of the generator load, so as to maintain the terminal voltage as a given value, which can obviously smell the smell of burning.

The above are the common reasons for the failure of diesel generators to generate electricity summarized by our editor. We hereby suggest that if your diesel generator has not expired, please contact the diesel generator manufacturer to provide guidance on operation, and try not to repair it yourself.

More solutions, you can visit https://www.dbdieselgenerator.com

This is how I replaced the rear valve cover rubber gasket seal on 1995 vt600 start by runing the bike very low on fuel a quart or so. On the set
ther's two screw on each side look closely about center of the set, there
probably 10mm bolts, Remove the set pull it backward, Remove the fuel tank 12mm bolt pulling it backwards will remove it from the rubber hanger
this will allow you to remove the fuel hose at the valve. install a cap to stop
the fuel. To remove the spark plug wires and boot on left side, two fingers
at the base of the boot and to fingers at the top of the boot note the plug
wire. ( boot body pull up easy). right side plug wire pull it up easy. At this point I removed the plate that covers the exhaust vavle 5mm allen wrech for clearence & the breather tube on top of the cover & removed the tie strab that holds the wiring to the left frame tube and pride it to the right side for clearence remove 10mm bolts lift the cover up easy have someone hold it up and slitely back, look close and pay attention remove rubber seal and go to the right side with it looking and getting it over the rocker arms and cam gear.wipe cover clean. thick greas on bottom of cover to hold the gkt in place sneak seal over cam & rockers and install on cover be sure seal is in place at the spark plug hole & breather area I used trans gel to holed the
gkt in place

we do not have this brand here in Pakistan but usually adjustment of valve is a little tricky
at the back side of the generator just next to spark plug there is a metal box with 4 bolts and a rubber pipe which leads to air filter back plate.
remove the 4 bolts remove the cover very slowly to avoid damage to the seal.if you can get the seal then replace it when you are finally done.or i suggest you get grey silicone to apply it evenly a thin film to seal it when done.
now you will see two rocker tied with one shaft with a lock nut on it
remember to put the switch to off position as when you turn or pull the cord it may start.
take a visiting card or similar cardboard and insert it between the rocker end not the one with a thin shaft side.the play or gap should not be more than the card thickness for both the rocker which vary or give space wheb you turn the wheel slowly of pull the recoil gradually. you would need a set of spanners one to hold the lower nut and the other to loosen the top nut for adjustment and the tighten them the same way.
when you are done the put the cover back and fix two bolts to test or the oil spilling will ruin your cloth and give you hot oil bath.
the best adjustment will start the generator smoothly while if the recoil get tough then the setting needs to be loosen almost in the figure of 1/4 of a turn or lesser.
remember that the guide plate which has two big hole from where the rod passes should not have any cut or wear off. if it has then the plate has to replaced before the adjustment.
for removal of guide plate you would need a long nose ratchet as it would not be easier to open the special bolts with nut built in.
hope this was helpful

I need a model number for your ENGINE not the whole generator. I believe this is a case of the engine not running fast enough. I.e governor adjustment will be necessary. Respond with an Engine model number and I will stll you how to adjust the governor speed.

This is GENERIC but the Governor arm has a spring that connects to a speed plate. The speed plate has a stand off screw and nut used for speed adjustment and a center nut for securing the speed plate in a fixed position. The Steps are to slightly loosen the center nut and the locking nut on the speed adjustment screw. Start the unit with a meter reading output power voltage (use extension wire for meter) Then turn the speed increase screw in to increase speed. When you reach 122-123 VAC stop. The reason you adjust it to 122-123 VAC is because voltage will drop as the generator provides power loads
Tighten the screw lock nut while running if possible and tighten the center nut on the speed plate to secure it in place. Check voltage again.

If you generator is running at normal speed and you have low voltage output... most of the time the Capacitor is failing. If the capacitor is failing the magnetic field in the armature and stator collapse under above average loads causing HUGE voltage swings.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

The white wire goes to the middle terminal post on the dryer.
The red and black wires go to the outside terminal posts.Doesn't matter which.
The green ground wire needs to be attached to the outside metal case...anywhere. The easiest way is to put the eyelet on the screw that attaches the terminal cover plate when you put it back on. Sandwich it between the screw head, the plate and the case.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you need more info
Best, G

this is for rear wheel drive only front wheel drives require removing axle shat and dropping tie rod end and lower ball joint to get tranny out. If you start this I will give tork setting when I know what you have as it is a lot of work to type this out.

First disconnect the battery, inside the cab pull shifter boot off and remove snap ring to remove shifter, next get a block to go under engine remove drive line bolts and be sure E-brake is set and block the wheels, next put bolts from driveline into the read differential in order so you will be able to find them next disconnect the two starter bolts from the starter and tie starter up as not to allow the starter weight to hang on the wires. Remove two bolts holding slave cylinder on let hang off the side do not lose the shaft out of slave. Next remove the transmission mount bolt out next pull four bolts out of transmission cross member, next remove 5 bolts out of bell housing now get a baggie and a couple of rubber bands and pull drive shaft slide baggie over the transmission tail shaft and put on rubber band on bag to keep from losing fluid move drive shaft out of the way. Next disconnect the Speedo cable and wiring harness the reverse switch is at the top so will have to drop the tranny down to keep from breaking wire. Once you have a gap between the transmission and engine put block under back of engine slide the transmission out let the front drop down then lift up on rear of transmission and slide the cross member out of the way. Next slide tranny out of the way next remove the 6 bolts on the clutch assembly turning each bolt 1 and a ½ turns each till clutch is loose remove the clutch pressure plate and the throw out bearing, remove flywheel take to machine shop and have surfaced, replace the clutch plate pressure plate and the throw out bearing reinstall in reverse if you see any oil leaks replace seals, also replace rear transmission seal now if you don’t it will leak next after it is back together be sure you put new fluid in the transmission and bleed the slave cylinder.