With a load in it my Top Loader LG 13kg T1308TEFTO does not rotate the drum properly but when empty it does what is wrong?

SOURCE: LG WFT1391TP Top Load Washer - Black Clay Pieces in Drum

Caustic soda. Be careful to wear gloves. Fill tub with water, cold will do, put in about 100gms of soda and turn on a extra large wash cycle only. Don't let the water drain, allow to stand over night, then complete wash cycle. You will find that hugh amounths of lint come loose. Repeat if necessary. I now do this about once every two months. Another thing to remember is to always leave lid open when machine is not in use, this prevents musty smells.

I have become obbsessive in sorting out the problems discussed and am now looking for a service manual for a WF-T7014PP as i want to remove the pulsators to ensure ther is no lint stuck in there. If anyone can assist please mail to [email protected]

SOURCE: SPEED QUEEN WASHING MACHINE LEAKS WATER WHEN IT STARTS WITH WASHU

check hoses and pump area.

SOURCE: I have a LG WASHER,FRONT LOADER WM0532HW KEEPS

LE stands for locked motor error.  The first thing you should try is simply unplugging the machine for 10 minutes.  If the problem continues the next most likely cause is the hall sensor.  To get to the hall sensor remove the back cover, then remove the wheel that is attched to the drum.  Undre that wheel if the stator (motor).  At the bottom there is a sensor that spans about three of the windings.  This is the hall sensor.  It is not very expensive.  If neither of those work you will need to replace the Stator (motor)

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore 110-24642300 Top Loader washing

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24642300&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

And the following for how to release the console, cabinet and pump, motor, transmission and tub.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=38167c09664cecf006774770a74cf9bc

DON'T BE ALARMED, THE ABOVE ARE REFERENCES AT THIS POINT. YOU CAN FIX IT. (THESE ARE RELATIVELY EASY TO FIX IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME.)

The first thing to check is how well the tub is attached to the spin tube. Over time, the nut that holds the tub on may have worked loose. The description for how to pull the tub should help.

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about $9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

If the tub is firmly attached to the drive tube, the next thing to check is the drive tube itself to make sure that it's not broken. Pull it (following the illustrated instructions and the Service Manual) and check it. Also check the pads / springs for the brake.

NOW FOR THE FUN PART.

If the tub is fine and the drive tube is fine, the problem could be in the gearcase itself. (It's a messy but not difficult job)

There are two plastic cams within the gearcase that lift the agitator shaft out of the way when the washer goes into spin mode. If the cams are worn (they don't have to be broken) they may not lift the shaft high enough (about 1/16") out of the way.

Also see the following for how the transmission works and the whirlpool parts list for the commercial washers (although the consumer models use the same gearcase.)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators. We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom. A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (15 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, check the clutch bands and springs before going further. If they are worn, sears and Whirlpool have replacement spring / band kits. If they are fine, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft.

Remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

SOURCE: My LG M#WM2277HB wont turn

Oh s***! If the motor turns but the drum does not, the drive shaft has broken loose from the three arms which attach it to the drum. (the part is called the "spider") To repair, remove bolt on end of shaft at center of motor. You may have to cut it with an angle grinder, but don't worry about that, because the shaft has to be replaced anyway. Remove motor rotor and stator. Remove washer front, drain hose, fill hose, shock absorbers, support springs, all wires attached to outer drum, and eventually the entire outer drum. Remove bolts between front and back halves of outer tub to allow removal of inner drum. Remove 6 bolts holding 3 arms of spider to back of inner drum. Re-assemble with new spider and new bolt for end of shaft. If you can do it in under two hours, give yourself a big pat on the back. This is about a 8.5 on a 1 - 10 difficulty scale for washer repair. Good luck Mike.

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