Washer gives me an "nf" message

Samsung Washing Machine Shows NF or 4E Error Code What Does This Fault...

387780 does not seem to be a valid model number.
If you can locate the model number enter it here at sears Parts Direct.
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Link to videos about washer not spinning.
top loader kenmore washer won spin YouTube

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
Transmission If the washer won't spin the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Water Level Control / Pressure Switch
his is the most common reason a washer will agitate but not spin. To check this on most , with no water you should have continuity on pins 7&15. With the tub full 7&16 should have continuity. This video walks you thru checking another type of switch.

Lid Switch
This can be the problem for the washer not spinning . Most whirlpool styles this will effect both agitate and spin but some models will still agitate but not spin.This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch.

Timer
To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem.

Motor
To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere.

Belt
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.

Motor Coupler
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to thetransmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of the Motor Coupler.

Transmission
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise theproblem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

You have a timer problem, the contacts are welded in spin mode.
This is almost always caused by advancing the timer by hand when the dial is pulled out in the "ON" position, causing arcing of the contacts.

Your clutch is probably going out, or your transmission. Your clutch is between your transmission and the tub. If you can rotate the friction material relatively easily, replace the clutch. You will have to take the transmission all the way out.

Did your clutch pulley use the upper One-Way Bearing ring?


What are the first two digits of your Serial Number of the machine?


What is the history of the Clutch install? Did the unbalance issue continue right away with the new Clutch Install?

How much rust did you find on the Clutch Pulley and the Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring if used? Any Pic’s of the old Clutch Pulley?


If you shut off the water source valves to the machine and release the top the washer so you can lift the washer top and observe the wash basket rotating CCW at 50 RPM during the water fill part of the wash cycle.


Start a quick wash cycle and lift the washer top to observe the wash basket rotation CCW. The wash Basket will rotate CCW at 50 RPM. You can go into Service Mode and observe on the LED console FAV6800A machine. Not sure about the FAV9800A LCD flavor of the machine.


Do the tumblers rotate slightly during the water fill part of the cycle?


The machine may error out with NF for No Fill don’t worry about that I just want to determine if the tumblers are rotating during the CCW/Spin direction of the wash basket. You may have to put some dry laundry in the wash basket to help with the observation.


Let me know what you see……..Rich

UC means the washer cannot spin. There's a bulletin out this.
The clutch is likely the cause of these error codes, preventing the unit from spinning freely. A new clutch was introduced in production in March 2005 to improve performance and should reduce these error codes.

1. Visual verification can be made of a malfunctioning clutch by observing the lifter operation in spin. The lifters will rotate up to one complete rotation just prior to the tub starting to spin counter clockwise. Should the lifters continue to rotate while the tub spins, examination of the clutch will be necessary.

2. Inspect the 14 wire plug in the control console for loose red\white- pink- blue\white from the P3 connector. Also inspect the wires and connection point on the Tub Displacement Sensor for corrosion. Measure from PK to Wh/Bu at the P3 connector. The voltage should be approximately 1.5vdc when the tub is centered, 3vdc when the tub is pushed to the right rear of
the cabinet and 0vdc to the left front. Any variances of these voltages, the 14 pin harness connection, tub displacement sensor, and sensor connector should be checked.