SOURCE: kenmore top load (model # 110 82370120) drain problem
Good AM. I see here that you have a fairly old belt drive Kenmore washer. The real problem with these is that the parts for them are so very expensive anymore to get. A timer (which you may be needing) will run you around $100.00 to $175.00 depending on where you live. Very expensive repairs on these, but if you want to go for it, here are some hints to help. Sounds like you have one of three problems. First off PLEASE UNPLUG YOUR MACHINE BEFORE WORKING ON IT. Your timer may have lost or has a stuck contact inside (unrepairable in most cases) which is making it do something is shouldnt be doing in that area of the timer. This would probably be the most expensive of your repair. The next thing is it could be the water level switch could be going bad. This one is highly doubtful since it fills and stops filling, but I have heard (but never have seen) that they can short out sometimes and cause wacky operation. Both these issues can be fixed by remove the console rear panel and front knobs to remove both. The next item could be a defective wig-wag in the bottom of the unit. One of the positioning solinoids maybe going bad and sending bad signals back to the timer.
None of these problems are really hard to fix. And truthfully (even though some of these guys will be mad) you can sometimes find these parts on ebay for a halfway good price. Part numbers for each are:
Timer: 381860
Water Level Switch: 359712
Wig-Wag: 89814
Good luck with this one, and if you know how to use one, try to run resistance with an ohm-meter on your wig-wag to be sure your getting power flow through the soilnoids (you will have 2, be sure to unplug the solinoids before testing to be sure its a true test) before replacing.
SOURCE: Kenmore 22622100 Top Load Washer won't drain the water, nor rinse
HI!!! you seem to have a bad lid switch on your washer..I would also check the timer on it good lucck.
SOURCE: washes but won't spin or drain completely unless no clothes in
Hello screenman780
I will assume you are taking dc or UC errors to the display in spin cycle. Just need the first two digits of your machine serial number, ie. 10,12,16 etc. That information is located on the right back side of the machine console. If you are taking those errors I recommend removing the clutch inspecting the clutch roller bearings and clutch spring. There is a test to perform for the Tub Displacement Sensor that we could check first but 10 times out of 10… so far it’s the clutch. Most of the time a cleanup with WD-40 and re-lube of the clutch bearings with some light bearing grease will get you back in service. If the clutch bearings are rusted up beyond clean up or the clutch spring is broken then a clutch replacement will be required. I recommend this clutch as a replacement. I put that clutch in my machine (1st two digits of my s/n are 16) just to make sure it would work, my original clutch was cleaned up with WD-40 alone and worked as the day delivered on 7/05. Take a look and read thru the post in the link below. In that post I go thru a step by step process to replace the clutch (comment of 3/18). I can also offer some phone support no charge; I'm a DIY'er owner of the machine. I believe the repair cost (from previous post on this forum) to replace the clutch and labor will be around $300 if you don't DIY the repair/maintenance for this issue. Most of the clutch malfunctions are resolved with the clutch maintenance. Anyone can do this with only basic mechanical skill sets. If you can change the spark plug on a lawnmower you can deal with this, the work area is just tight. Here are some folks that had positive results with this maintenance. Unfortunately I feel many of these machines end up at the curb for bulk trash pickup when a $10 fix for some WD-40 a squirt of bearing grease or worse case a $50-$60 new clutch replacement. Good Luck and let me know if you need additional support, Rich.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t527875-maytag_neptune_tl
Here are some folks that did this maintenance with positive results.
Positive Fix1/19
Positive Fix 1/18
Positive Fix 3/4
Positive Fix 3/4 different Forum
Solution #4 posted on Mar 17, 2009
SOURCE: Our samsung j845 front load washing machine won't
SAME THING HAPPEND TO ME, SORRY BUT YOU NEED A NEW WATERPUMP, THEY GO ON THEM WASHERS ALL TIME. I REPLACED 2 AND HAD MY WASHER JUST OVER A YEAR. NOW ITS THE DOOR
SOURCE: it fills up..washes..but wont drain or spin out..
I had the same problem. Checked the pump and it ran fine. Took off the door locking mechanism and put 120 ohms into the wax motor part and it tested fine too. I read about problems with that wax motor so I replaced the complete door switch today for $71.00 and the washer runs perfectly now. If it won't spin or even fully drain I suggest replacing the door switch.
In all occasions it is important that your observation
is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and
solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose
pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is
important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose
would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be
back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve
can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all
cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening
of the hose is also very important. Also water can leak if there are gaps on
the front door gaskets and must be checked but this will happen only during the
cycle and not on the drain cycle end.
Tips for leak: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1461/do-you-have-a-leaky-washing-machine.html
Replacing
Door seal: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1464/how-to-replace-the-door-seal-on-a-washing-mac.html
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