EF6600DE WILL NOT IDLE DOWN WHEN NO LOAD.EONOMY SWITCH SEEMS OK. CHECKED SWITCH ON / OFF WITH OHM METER. WHEN GENERATOR RUNS IT ONLY RUNS ON HIGH RPM. ECONO SWITCH ON OR OFF MAKES NO DIFFERENCE.

diesel ?
clean fuel filter ..check pump is ok
adjust governor
or twig up idle a bit

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[PDF]EF4000DE, EF5200DE, EF6600DE, YG4000D ... - Yamaha

www.yamahamotorsports.com/assets/.../0/LIT-19626-01-15_1425.pdf
Generator. LIT-19626-01-15. 7WV-28199-11. EF4000DE. EF5200DE. EF6600DE ...This manual will provide you with a good basic understanding of the operation and .....card listing your Yamaha model name, engine ... rpm. NO OTHER ADJUSTMENTS NEEDED. ENGINE OIL: IDLE SPEED: ..... Electric Starting Model:.

[PDF]yamaha generator theory & diagnostics guide - Gen-Tech

www.gen-tech.net/fullpanel/uploads/files/theory--diagnostics-guide.pdf
Yamaha Generator Theory and Diagnostics Guide .... Conventional EF6600DE . ...models with Smart Throttle) do not rely on rpm to ... unit manages functions such as AC power modifica- ... tions means higher fuel economy at lower outputs.

Yamaha Motor Canada :: Products :: Power Equipment ...

There is something wrong with the auto load sensing switch which is part of the generator. That is the sensor that detects when current load from the generator drops as in when you strike an arc or turn on a power tool and cranks the throttle to full power. It is obviously working on manual because the manual switch is cranking the revs up so the solenoid that operates the throttle is ok. My advice is to take it to a service centre that deals in welder/generator sets as you are playing with dangerous voltages and may possibly damage the machine by tinkering with it or fry yourself (nasty)

most cheaper generators do not have a idle kick down and are made to run at 1850 rpm's the older ones run at 3600 rpm if it has a no load idle system there will be a switch

To test the chargeing system on your bike. First, text the battery. Unless it is "brand new" there is always the posibility that your battery is the problem. This is especially true on an Ironhead Sporty due to the vibration. Take it to an automotive parts store and ask them to load test it.

The first thing we want to do is to "polarize" the generator. Using a jumper wire, MOMENTARILY touch the wire from the "A" terminal to the positive terminal of the battery. Just make it spark, that's all.

Now, with the battery FULLY CHARGED, connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to the battery. Red meter lead to the positive and black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater scale. Start the engine bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts. If not, test the generator.

First, remove all the wires from both the "A" and the "F" terminals. put your meter's function switch to DC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Connect the red meter lead to the "A" terminal and the black meter lead to a good ground. Start the engine and bring the revs up to about 2000 rpm. MOMENTARILY, connect a jumper lead form ground to the "F" terminal of the generator. Your volt meter should read 25-30 volts.

If your generator output is good, you need to replace your regulator. If the output of the generator is zero or low, you need to service the generator. Check the brushes to make sure they're not worn and you may need to recondition the communtator surfaces.

Good luck
steve

Those voltage readings MAY be normal.

The AC waveform may cause your meter to read inaccurately. You would need to use a TRUE RMS meter to accurately read the voltage.

The siple meters actually read the AVERAGE voltage and then are calibrated to mulltiply it by the "form factor" for a sine wave. OFTEN these generators don't produce a clean sine wave. A square-ish wave will read higher on the garden variety meters.

Compare the brightness of a lamp comparing to when run on your utility.

The frequency depends on engine speed ... yours is running a bit fast...check it under at least half load and if off, adjust the govenor slightly.

Check the idle control rod Is it bent or hanging up on something?

Hi. There are 2 things that control the Auto Throttle and that is the idle control valve (Connected with black and yellow wires) and the Auto Throttle Unit.

Start Generator
Check for 12VDC on the Yellow wire of the idle control valve. Yellow is positive to any good Chassis ground. If you don't have 12VDC then either the Auto Throttle switch is bad or the Auto Throttle Unit iself.

You can gain access to the Auto throttle switch and again check for 12VDC to Ground on both sides of the switch with the switch on. (It may read as high as 13.8 engine running) If you don't get 12 - 13.8 VDC the the Auto throttle control unit is bad

If you have 12VDC to the Idle control Valve and it does not work perform a resistance check across the coil of the Idle control Valve (both wires disconnected Engine off) Black to yellow should read 3 to 4 Ohms If you have no resistance then the coil in the Idle control Valve is bad.

If you need more help just respond here

Kelly

This problem maybe coming for n the generator it performs 3 function 1. controls electrical load / resistance to pedals 2. Charging system for the battery 3. Monitors unit when in use (stride) or when it is idle.
To test unit: Remove cover disconnect red battery lead. then use a multi-meter set function to ohms set range that can read 50 ohms. then disconnect generator lead from circuit board. M3=brown , M4= blue, M5= violet, with the meter read between Brown and blue, blue and violet , brown and violet, each of these read should be between 26 and 27 ohms. If any of the reading s are high or low replace generator

hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS