Really need more info! If this is came from Harbour Freight, check the spark plug. I watched a video to get a little background on the generator and the recommend changing the spark plug before using it. Anyway, he opened box and pulled the wire off the plug and was able to unscrew the plug by hand. I doubt your plug is loose if it has ran, but probably be in your best interest to change it, I bet it's bad. He said the gap is .03. Take spark plug out and go to any automotive store and get a replacement, they'll even gap it for ya.
Check and make sure there's fuel in it, switch/key is in the on position, press primer button at least 8 times if it has one (didn't see one in video), crank a few times in full choke, then on half choke, and it should start.
SOURCE: Colemen powermate Generator 6875w 5500
GENSET ALL PROBLEM FIXES - 2 PARTS
My answer:
Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers
are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and
just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR
without OIL in the units to begin with!!!! (See esp #3 and Final Notes below as well)
And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!
I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?
If you bought your Genset from other then a Home
Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to
contact that outlet, and see what they have to say or hopefully can do
for you.
Esp all those Gensets that are Made in China and have flooded the USA
market in the last 10 years or so - no thanks to our representatives in
WASH DC that's for sure. It's a wonder this country even functions with
all this "inferior" Made in China JUNK that keeps prematurely failing
before it's normal time. Sad to say the least!
Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO
start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new
Genset:
1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under
the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it
states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")
2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token
(even
if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel
filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check
as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean
appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!
3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an
"Electrical ON-OFF Switch" usually a single-pole single-throw type btw,
and it can go bad with high usage)? Does it move freely from OFF to ON?
Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM
or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting
around
too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding
air! This switch actually & electronically is wired in REVERSE so
that when switched to the ON position the wired contacts are OPEN thus
letting the Ignition Coil fire for SPARK. When switched to the OFF
position the wired contacts are now CLOSED thus connecting (or
switching) the "Control Board" logic voltage signal (usually anywhere
from +3 to +12 VDC upon start-up) to GROUND - thus cutting the RUN
voltage to the Ignition Coil fire - as in SHUTDOWN. On some model
designs there also may be a separate IDLE CONTROL SWITCH and POWER
REGULATOR BOARD for better POWER LOAD self-regulation depending on
constant variable loads placed on the Genset as related to the
work-site demands. If there is NO VOLTAGE OUTPUT but yet good engine
RPM function - then I would look at this part first and then #8.
4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?
5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom
of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the
Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have
suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing
that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work
properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.
6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position
not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and
truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of
2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float
may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged
with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is
NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening
more then just a few times myself. You might try
and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl
with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the
stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the
bottom of the Float Bowl
on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER
HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float
to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better
then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you
definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues,
and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset
begins to run great - as it should - and continues to do so -
then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the
Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole Assy there just as an added
precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed
in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER
FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly,
and/or totally remove the
Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting
inside to the Float
at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the
Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing
more!
If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL
STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of
NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the
tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before,
and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is
why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO
important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once
gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter
into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start -
even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!
SOURCE: ZODIAC DUOCLEAR 25K DOESN'T FUCTIONING WELL
I have the zodiac duoclear system and have used it for nearly two years. All in all, it's a very good system. I have had similiar issues on occassion. Have you tried the master reset button on the lower right hand face of the control board? I've been able to clear up the lights by resetting the system.
If the salt content in the pool is not correct, the system will not allow you to superchlorinate. Your salt level should be at 4000 ppm. The add salt light is programmed to come on if the system gets below 3600 ppm. When the system is below 4000 ppm, it is unable to generate the chlorine needed. The lower the salt, the less you can chlorinate. Might not be your problem, but I've run into this before too.
The lights for replacing your cartridge puzzle me. I'm making an assumption that your pool is probably dirty if you're trying to superchlorinate. The dirtier the water, the faster the electrode in the cartridge will get covered in scale from the current and conversion process. Try cleaning the new cartridge by placing it in a bucket with a 75% water and 25% muratic acid mix. Let it soak for a few minutes and gently swirl it around in the mixture. This will clean the contacts in the cartridge.
Keys with the Duoclear system: Salt content and clean the filters regularly. Don't know if this will solve your problem or not, but good luck.
SOURCE: Yamaha TW 200 starts but won't run.
If the bike has sat for a long period of time without being run - the gas that is sitting in the carb(s) will shellac.. Then the carb(s) would need to be cleaned and "rebuilt"..
SOURCE: natural gas generator will not start. 4 years after installation.
very likely a fuel problem. First pull the air cleaner cover off and try choking the engine by putting your hand over the intake partially choking it. If this don't work then go Down on the bottom right hand side behind the battery you will see a fuel regulator on top of it is a fuel solenoid with 2 wires coming off it. Below the fuel solenoid you will see 2 -1/4" pipe plugs one on top of the other. If you pull the top one out and gas comes out then you have fuel up to the solenoid. If you pull the bottom one out and crank the engine then you should get gas out of the bottom one. If you don't then make sure you are getting 12 vdc to those 2 wires during cranking. If you do then You are going to have to pull the 4 screws out of the solenoid and pull the solenoid off and make sure you the seat on your solenoid valve is not sticking. If all this checks out and you are getting fuel out both 1/4" pipe plug holes, then you will need to see if you have a spark at the spark plugs, if you don't then something is shorting out your ignition coils. Disconnect wire 18 from its terminal located above the oil cooler. If the engine starts and runs with this wire disconnected then you need to trace this wire back to the control panel and see whats causing it to ground out.
Let me know if this helps.
SOURCE: Maytag MDBtt60awb
most likely you have a bad motor when replacing the motor ihave found it is cheaper to get the pump with the motor attached where as they charge you more money for just the motor or the pump seprately try allbrands appliance parts they seem to be cheaper
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