Second New GFCI shows green light but no electricity at GFCI or downstream outlets. Does not respond to "test" or "reset". Help!

no GFI age,maker or model told... (some have evolved.)
as do some on other countries, NONE TOLD so, generic answers you WIN>? (gin)
no, only it and the drownstream jacks.(if wired as gfi extensions)
or if the home as a bad green wire ground sure.
call and electrician and fix it.
or test all things on the circuit 1 by one on the main GFI outlet
see what appliance trips it 1 by one, all other not connect.
easy no? IDK what you have there so , can only say simple tests.

on good circuits, ground and neutral most not go to differential volts.

some gfi can tip if 2 thing fault
if normal line current is exceed on neutral line it trip\
think water in a hand hair dryer ,oops
and some can see green wire leakage too and is not allowed./
if the energy used by the load is the same as the outlet power input
that is good , if not , it fails. (means and ******* power leaks is present and super dangerous to humans or even pets)
I like this drawing (amazing quality ) here.

https://www.westernautomation.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/GFCIs_For_AC_DC_Systems.pdf

in my USA home my 200AMP load center is huge jumpered
Neutral to earth ground and again at the curb transformer.
and my 2 deep 16ft ground stakes and one more on a huge ANTENNA.base, and all are cross tied, I take grounds serious.
so if earth ground is bad. that a first order never ignore error.
fully unsafe.
earth ground keeps my washing machine safe.as will GFI , and double safe.
also GFI breakers too are sold and even better.
the beauty of it , it trips if line leakage to human body is to neural or to earth ground (bare feet in puddle of water ) both.

is uses an Imbalance ,detector to do that, lives saved is huge.
best is as electrician to do a ground load test.
this test assures ground and neutral have tight and good bond.

nice schematic no> super simple to see now it works.

follow and test circuit short or disconnect wire and breaker

....When multiple GFCI outlets on the same circuit, tripping one usually trips all others. You have to start with the first GFCI closest to the breaker box and work your way down stream.....Verify all breakers are reset. Check all GFCI's everywhere you have one to see if one is tripped. If so .... Reset it. IF not ..............

It's broke ............ Call an electrician.

Yes. It probably is. If you cannot trip it and reset the GFI then it is bad. Easy fix.

I would expect that one of the screws on the plug would be green.

Normally, the white wire (neutral) connects to the silver/white screw, the black wire (hot) the the brass/copper/black screw, and the ground wire (green) to the green screw. Certain GFCI receptacles do have a second silver/white screw to provide downstream GFCI protection to additional outlets.

You should have a licensed electrician fix it. Electricians have test equipment to locate a ground fault. Some hardware stores have a device to test the grounding of an electrical receptacle. It plugs in like any electrical device and shows red or green for good or bad.
However, if you feel adventurous, and your life insurance is paid up.
1. open the circuit breaker at the main panel.
2. Reset the GFCI to verify the power is off (nothing should trip).
3. remove one of the outlets from the circuit. They are in parallel so the wires will need to be connected to feed the downstream receptacles. Splice them carefully and insulate all bare wires. wire nuts are good for that.
4. Turn the power back on.
If the GFCI does not trip, you found the bad one.
If it does trip repeat 1 - 4 as needed.
If this process fails to identify the problem then it is a wiring problem. Consider the electrician.

The threaded knob should not be related to the problem, it just controls how much air gets mixed into the water jets. One possibility is that the electricity is off. These tubs should receive power through a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) type of circuit breaker for your protection from electrical shock. Check your circuit breaker panel(s) for a breaker with a little square white or yellow "test" button. Refer to the label (if it is there) to see if it refers to "tub" or "spa" or "bath" or something like that. You may have to turn the breaker handle off (push extra hard to make it reset) and then back on again. If the breaker handle is in the "on" position and the "test" button does not "trip it off," call an electrician. If no luck there, check the bathroom for an electrical outlet with GFCI protection, again looking for white or yellow (or red) buttons - one should be engraved "test" and the other "reset" as the electrician (I hope it was an electrician) may have supplied the tub from this outlet (not actually up to code). Plug an appliance or light into the outlet. If it doesn't work, push the reset button on the outlet and test again. If working, now test the spa. If that doesn't work, test every other GFCI outlet you can find - in the kitchen, other baths, garage, outdoors, basement, etc. using the same testing procedure. If you find a GFCI breaker or outlet "tripped" that restores the tub, that indicates there is something wrong with your electrical system that could cause you to get electrocuted, and requires that you hire a qualified electrician to investigate the problem. The same is true for any GFCI outlet that does not "trip" and/or "reset." If this doesn't fix the tub, the problem may not be electrical but some other problem with the system, indicating a plumber or spa tech may need to be consulted. Note: these GFCI breakers and outlets are supposed to be tested and reset once every month. How many of us do that? Well, at least as often as we test our smoke detectors, I suppose.

In workshop areas, the NEC specifies GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) outlets.
If you replaced any GFCI outlets, there could be 2 possible problems:
(1) modern GFCI outlets will pass zero voltage if wired backwards (i.e. a load/feed reversal).
check the load/feed wiring of all GFCI outlets, to make sure its correct.
The feed side of the GFCI outlet is wired directly to the breaker, and the load side feeds power
to the remainder (the downstream side) of the circuit (therefore protecting the entire downstream
side of the circuit).
(2) older GFCI outlets could need to be reset if wired correctly - check the reset button(s) just to
make sure that they (and any downstream outlets) are receiving voltage.
Assuming that no GFCI outlets were part of the replacement process (or that your GFCI outlets
are correctly wired), your check for the presence of 240 VAC
should begin at the outlet/switch closest to the 240VAC double pole breaker, and proceed from there (looking for that 240VAC at each device with your 2-prong tester) along to the end
of the circuit until the problem is identified.
What this implies is that you have created (or will create) a schematic or circuit diagram of the
circuit involved - including switches, wires, and outlets (240V and 120V) - and then use that as a
resource to trace the possible sources of the problem from the breaker to the problem.
Here's the question I would want you to answer as you create your circuit diagram:
How did a 240V table saw get on the same circuit as a 120V washer and/or 120V switch(es)?
It seems like during the process of circuit tracing/diagram creation, you may find
that you're dealing with parts of more than 1 circuit, rather than just one. Check the breaker box
for any breakers that are in the "Tripped" position - and diagram those circuit(s) too.
What I would suspect is a wiring problem/mistake with the 1st device (switch or outlet) that is
supposed to feed power to the rest of the circuit, but fails to pass power on to the remainder of the circuit - or that that first device is actually wired to a second circuit with a tripped breaker.

Another thing to check is that your shop may be on its own sub-panel, with the table saw
on a 240VAC circuit, and the washer on its own 120VAC circuit. In this case, the
total curent draw may have tripped the MAIN breaker to this sub-panel in the MAIN breaker
panel (i.e. none of the breakers in the sub-panel were tripped, but the main breaker feeding the
ENTIRE sub-panel tripped, and this (double pole) breaker is located in the MAIN breaker panel).
In this case, the fix would be to reset the double pole breaker in the main panel that feeds the
shop sub-panel, bringing all the sub-panel circuits on line.

The last thing to suspect/check for is a fault in the wire itself, which is the most difficult problem to
diagnose. The fix to a bad wire would be re-fishing a new wire from the breaker box to the 1st
device box - no electrical inspector will require the removal of old wires from walls - so long as they
are not live.
What would make your life alot easier, and what helps electricians diagnose these problems so
quickly, is an electrical field tester (a.k.a. "chirper" tester), which would allow you to check
the wire as it leaves the breaker box to the point where the electrical field disappears.
At the point (point in the wire/outlet/switch) where the chirper stops chirping, you've found your
fault. At Home Depot/Lowe's/electrical supply store, a electrical field tester will set you back
about $8 to $20, depending on whether you opt for one that just lights an LED, or one that
lights and LED and also chirps.

While a lot of people have replaced a lot of 2 prong ungrounded outlets with 3 prong outlets, as you probably know, it is an unsafe practice. The National Electric Code (NEC) permitted method is to replace the 2 prong outlet with a 3 prong GFCI outlet such as this:
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Outlets-Plugs-Outlets/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg4Zbp9i/R-202026815/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

For multiple outlets, the usual practice is to install the GFCI outlet at the first outlet in the circuit, then regular 3 prong outlets can be used to replace 2 prong outlets in all the downstream outlet locations as long as the "no equipment ground" stickers that come with the GFCI outlet are used and they are now GFCI protected outlets, per NEC.

Finding the first outlet in the circuit is not always easy. First, determine which outlets are on the circuit, then starting with the outlet closest to the electric panel, disconnect the wires and see if all the other outlets went out. It's kind of trial and error.

Once you have found that first outlet in the circuit, connect the hot wires coming from the electric panel to the LINE terminals of the GFCI and the wires going to the downstream oulets to the LOAD terminals of the GFCI. Full instructions come with the GFCI outlet.
The GFCI receptacles sold today won't work if connected incorrectly, so you will soon know if you did it wrong.
Once the GFCI outlet is installed at the first outlet, all of the downstream 2 prong outlets can be replaced with 3 prong outlets, using the stickers mentioned above to indicate that the outlets are not grounded.
Strange as it sounds, all downstream outlets _must_ be ungrounded when using this method.

GFCI receptacles are polarized and connecting them correctly is critical. The hot wire should be black, blue, red, etc. The neutral should be white or natural gray. The ground should be green (if equipped).

Also, it's common to have other receptacles in a kitchen wired "downstream" of a GFCI so that if the GFCI trips or there is an issue with another non GFCI outlet, you're still protected.

Check all outlets in the kitchen and be sure they are wired correctly and in good shape. Unplug everything while you test. If the GFCI still trips, start looking for loose neutrals or bad ground wiring (or no ground) at the other receptacles since you said you already checked the breaker box.

A coffee maker can be a cuplrit that causes a GFCI to trip since it is a heating device and uses water, which can make them more susceptible to electrical problems. Check the microwave too (if equipped).