I don't have the Schematic but did you replace the fuse once? You may need a Slow Blow Fuse. They are marked and just look different
A slow blow fuse is different from a fast acting fuse in its capability to withstand transient pulse currents, i.e., it can withstand the surge current upon power-on/off, thus ensuring the equipment works normally. Therefore, slow blow fuses are often called time-delay fuses.
Hope I helped If I did please "Like"
Mike
No it actually requires a fast blow according to the schematic. They have a 20A fuse wit a melting i squared t of 625 (Little Fuse 314020 or Bussman ABC-20) If you have a faulty interlock switch you can have a short circuit across the 1.3 mH inductor. A slow blow may cause damage to the circuitry.
Bussman BP/ABC-20 20 Amp 250 Volt Microwave Oven Fuse Is a slow blow fuse.
×
SOURCE: Microwave keeps blowing fuse
If it blows the fuse as soon as you hit the START button, it's almost certainly a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it blows a few seconds after you hit the START button, it's probably the high-voltage transformer. You'll possibly also smell a faint electrical burning smell from the rear vent after you shut if off.
If it blows the fuse as soon as it's plugged in, you probably have a shorted door switch, a shorted varistor, or an internally exposed wire shorting to the chassis, etc.
SOURCE: GE spacemaker Profile XL1800 vent fan will not shut off
It may be a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel, such as a sticky relay.
I would suspect a sticky relay first, but the door switches should be checked.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
If you need your control panel assembly (smart board) repaired, we do that for $39.95 nationwide.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
SOURCE: Microwave keeps blowing fuse
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that\'s usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that\'s usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
Here are some links with info on part testing:
http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/cap_test.html
http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/diode.html
http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/mag_test.html
http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/xformer.html
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by
entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
Please write back with your brand and model number if you need further help.
We\'re happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Microwave oven blowing 20 amp ceramic fuse
Chances are if the varistor fails, it fails drastically causing a short circuit across the supply. It will sit across the supply (it will look like a thick ceramic capacitor) and you can check for continuity after isolating that at one end. If it shows low resistance (it should show almost open circuit with a Digital meter), replace it.
It need not be the culprit. If you are familiar working with High voltage circuits ( they are lethal inside a microwave ovens as the current capability is high here), you can discharge the doubler capacitor and isolate the high voltage diode to check for shorts in the HT area.
SOURCE: keeps blowing 20 amp cermaic fuse when door is
I finally was able to fix similar problem. The "primary" door switch (top switch) had a burned contact inside the switch body, as well as burned surrounding plastic. It would no longer "click" and tended to stay in "closed" position. [The switch is a "normally open" design (NO).] When this occurs and the door is opened, the "monitor" switch causes the fuse to blow out. GE wants $50 for this part. However, I was able to find a universal design of microswitch at Fry's Electronics. It had the same rating (15 amp at 250 volts), same body size, both NO and NC terminals, but with a lever arm which I had to remove by opening the case. Cost was $2.47 + tax. (PRICELESS!). It works well now.. I also had to buy a set of Torx driver bits for tamperproof screws to be able to remove the oven cover. (The hole in the end of the bit goes over the tamperproof pin of the screw). NOTE: I believe this problem occurs from opening the microwave door before the cooking is finished (without either pushing "pause" or "clear/off" buttons). This can cause a momentary "arc" between the switch contacts which, over time, will pit and burn the switch
I also viewed a YouTube video which was helpful at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsWTCnACqdY
Either you have defected (weak) circuit breaker and wiring or bad Microwave oven.
The 99.99 % house hold Microwave ovens pull less than 15 Amps. They may have internal ceramic 15A fuse or 15 Amp internal circuit breaker.
To isolate your problem:
1.
Plug your Microwave oven to different areas (different electrical circuit) if the different circuit breaker still trips... your Microwave oven has a short - Most of them has a small ceramic fuse 15 amps fuse.-also check some inter lock switches at door .
2.
If the Microwave oven works Ok then you may have:
2a. You may overload the existing electrical circuit, try to unplug some other appliances
2b. You may have bad electrical outlet receptacle (Replace it with the same type , - may need helps from licensed electrician)
2c. Weak or defect house hold circuit breaker. (Replace it with the same type , brand - may need helps from licensed electrician)
340 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×