Trips GFI circuit brakers

sorry that a bit confusing u said it trip the gfi then u said it does not trip the gfi?

Most are green when functioning properly. Many have no lights at all. Try depressing the reset and see if the outlet works again. If not there are other things to look for. Often times one GFI outlet feeds multiple more outlets from the "load" connection on the back side of the GFI. If there is something wet, overloading the rating, or something with a fault in any of the outlets multipled off the single GFI it will trip. Disconnect all devices then attempt to reset. If that doesn't work and you possess some electrical skills pull the GFI outlet and disconnect the wires going to the "load" connection (While power is off) Re-energize and attempt to reset the GFI Outlet. If it resets your problem is beyond that outlet in the circuit of what you disconnect. You may not have found all the affected outlets. FYI if you have a 15amp GFI the rule of thumb is you can put more devices on outlets working off or through the GFI that add up to more than 1500 watts. If it is a 20amp GFI a quick rule of thumb is no load over 2000 watts. Space heaters, blow dryers, and hair curlers are often 1800 watts each. One alone and can trip a 15 amp GFI.

A circuit breaker can go bad, but usually not in the way that you describe. That's not to say that it can't happen, but just not typical. GTE Sylvania breakers were once popular - I installed quite a few GTE / Sylvania electrical panels in homes in the late 80's. You may have trouble finding replacements; do not put an breaker that "fits" into the panel, unless the breaker is designed for use in the panel you have.

The first thing to do is determine the source of the problem. The breaker will trip, but not indicate if it was the result of a heavy electrical load or a ground fault condition. A 15 amp circuit breaker is designed to carry up to 12 amps continuously. The greater the load, the more quickly it will trip. it may carry a 14.5 amp load for several minutes to an hour before tripping, and a 20 amp load may be carried a second or two. GFI breakers are designed to carry 5 thousandths (.005) of an amp (or 5 milliamps) to ground, or the 12+ amps to neutral before they trip.

The way I would attack the problem is to install a new GFI outlet in front of the old wiring, by "inserting it" between the panel and the other plugs and lights, switches, etc on that circuit. The GFI outlet will provide the same GFI protection that the circuit breaker provided at a fraction of the cost.

Turn off the old GFI breaker, and remove it completely. Install a new, standard (non-GFI) single pole 15 amp circuit breaker in its place. Completely remove from the panel the cable that the old GFI breaker fed. Buy a new electrical outlet box (surface or flush mount as desired) that is large enough and deep enough for a GFI plug and 2 cables (if surface mount, use a 4" square deep box and appropriate cover - or if flush mounting use a deep plastic / fiber single gang box). It will be installed in a place close to the panel, but where the old cable will be able to reach inside. Bring the old cable removed from the panel into the new box. Run a new cable that has the same number and size wires from the panel into the new box, too. Connect the circuit neutral and circuit ground to the neutral and ground bars in the panel (they are probably the same bar) and the hot wire to the circuit breaker. make sure that the circuit breaker is OFF. Twist the two ground wires together and combine an 8 inch length of bare or green insulated wire with them in a wirenut.

Next, wire a new GFI plug in the new box. Connect the green wire from the wirenut to the green terminal of the GFI outlet.

Connect the plug's LINE terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you ran from the panel to the outlet box.

Now, connect the GFI plug's LOAD terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you removed from the panel and reinstalled into the new outlet box.

Secure the GFI outlet into the box and install the cover. Cover the electrical panel.

Power up and test. if the GFI trips, there's a ground fault in the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips, the circuit is overloaded.

Chances are while you have a 20amp circuit in your kitchen the gfi you are plugging into is rated at 15amps. First make sure your outlet is connected to a 20amp circuit breaker and then change out the gfi for a 20amp one. This coffee pot is more for commercial than residential usage, I had the same problem until I changed out the gfi plug.

This should be a 220 volt appliance so I'm trying to figure how this was connected to a GFI. Does it have a second connection to power the controls?

Most GFI uints I have seen are not rated for large amounts of power consumption. I used to throw the one in my bathroom if I was running the electric heater and the wife fired up the hair dryer.

I'm wondering if this indeed does require the additional 110 connection then it sould be pulling heavy current from it to aid in the cleaning process. I've never seen a stove that needed the extra. My old electric range had only the 220 as well as my elders.

So if that is the case then you should not be running that through the GFI outlet because of the heavy drain will heat the breaker in the GFI and cause it to trip. Breakers actually work very similar to how the old fuses work. Heat causes the switch to throw. GFI units have a lower tolerance (designed to detect shorts quicker to save your life) and trip quicker than breakers do.

Unfortunatly washing machines are too sensitive for GFI outlet.only way to fix is too take it off the GFI.

My bad, yours is an oven.

I found the Owner Manual, but could not find the Installation Manual. Do you have it, and does it say to hook the oven to a GFI protected power source?

Just because of the way the electronics work in the oven, and the way the electronics work in the GFI, I don't think that they work together. The oven is a permanent appliance, so I don't know of any reason it would need it.

How long have you had this oven installed, and connected to the GFI? Has anything changed, like you washed the oven down and got water inside it. Is a non GFI circuit available nearby where you could wire the oven?

Let me know what you find. It's been awhile since I looked at a new Electrical Code (NEC) book, and even with that, you local ordinances can over ride the NEC.

WASHING MACHINES ARE NOT TO BE CONNECTED TO GFI OUTLETS AND TRY TO CONNECT IT TO A CERCIUT THAT IS NOT WITH YOUR DRYER. (REG) OUTLET.

GFI's and motor's don't get along with each other,if the motor is just the slightest bit of any moisture,the GFI will pick it up as a ground...Try to run it without the GFI.