Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer Logo
Cathy McIntosh Posted on Mar 22, 2016
Answered by a Fixya Expert

Trustworthy Expert Solutions

At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.

View Our Top Experts

What does a flashing F51 code mean?

Washer starts normally, water runs in, lid locks, and then nothing....then a few minuted later the F 51 code flashes. What does this mean and how can I fix it?

1 Answer

Charles Norris

Level 2:

An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

New Friend:

An expert that has 1 follower.

Greenhorn:

A rookie expert who has answered 20 questions on their first day.

  • Expert 74 Answers
  • Posted on May 15, 2016
Charles Norris
Expert
Level 2:

An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

New Friend:

An expert that has 1 follower.

Greenhorn:

A rookie expert who has answered 20 questions on their first day.

Joined: May 14, 2016
Answers
74
Questions
1
Helped
22252
Points
195

Dump the appliance. sears delivers the worst garbage available

2 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 14, 2008

SOURCE: he2 washer flashing code f51

check hose inside mine had two baby socks clogging it up

Ad

Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 14, 2010

SOURCE: What does F51 mean?

1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1helpful
1answer

What is Technical Fault 51?

The most common reason for this code is :-

F51 error is caused by a faulty or blocked heater pressure switch. It is not a job for an unqualified person.

"The program is interrupted and the drain pump is operated. The display shows Technical fault F51. Call Service Department. The buzzer is activated for 2 minutes. "
0helpful
1answer

Machine won't work.

Robert. You have a bad water valve OR completely clogged up filter screens on the valve. My past experience with this machine with this type of problem is to replace the valve assembly. part Number W10364988
0helpful
1answer
0helpful
1answer

Lid lock flashing

There are two issue needs considering. Should you have very less load and get wrong setting so the sensor can not weight. Do you have any error code like F1, F51, etc...
Try to turn the drum by hand see if it is freely turn to make sure nothing was caught in between.
This motor has a nut that was loosen by time or by working with large load for long. Lift over the washer to the wall, then you can kneel down and look at the bottom. There is a 1/4 hex head nut-see if it is loosen and reset the unit again.
F1 code - the control board dead, need to call Wp for replacement, as far as I know, they cover 1 time part and labor for this code.
F51 code-motor issue or weight sensor, need to figure out which one cause problem.
0helpful
1answer

Maytag washer flashes f 51

You will need to replace the RPS sensor. There is a kit available that will update that washer to the current design. Here is the kit to order.
3helpful
1answer
1helpful
1answer

Kenmore elite oasis top load model 580 error F51

There is no reason or condition that will requir having to doing that for correct operation. That indicates the board as being defective. Just asking if your water is draining correctly? When you start cycle, after it finnishes loading the water, can you get it to drain at all. If you can, the board is the problem.
0helpful
1answer

Washer full and then stops and gives a beep while flashing F 51

On Kenmore F51 means Motor RPS Failure, the motor is not spinning or the motor sensor detects a fault.First unplug the power cord for one hour or so to check if it is a jammed sensor, and see if reset.
3helpful
2answers

Error message

F51 error code is beacause the computer board did not receive input from the motor on the bottom. Unplug the washer, pull the machine forward and tilt the machine back. On the bottom you will see a large white wheel with a silver allen screw in the middle I think it is a 6mm allen wrech that takes it off. Once you remove the screw and drop the white wheel, there will be a large coil of wires with 4 5/16 screws holding it on, remove these scres and drop the coils. On the right hand side you will see a connector with three wires , unplug it. Use sand paper or a scraping tool to clean all 3 male sides of the connectors. Reverse process to re-assemble.
0helpful
3answers

He2 washer flashing code f51

I agree with sissssss. For my Maytag's F51 error, there were socks lodged between the inner and outer tubs, causing too much friction on the motor. This led to the computer reading poor performance of the motor. Please consider trying this easy fix before calling out service personnel or replacing circuitry!!! I spent hours under the machine messing with the motor and circuitry until I looked up at the translucent tub and saw stray laundry stuck where it shouldn't be.
* Open the lid. Turn the bottom agitator by hand. Give it a good push. It should continue rolling on for several turns. If not, there is laundry stuck between the tubs causing friction.
1.) Pry open the metal case lid. Take two flat head screwdrivers and wedge them in the crack about 6 inches from the left corner, and use them as levers to pop the metal lid, then the right corner. Lift up the metal case lid and lean it against the wall.
2.) Take off the plastic ring that bridges the gap between the inner and outer tubs. There are many little catches all around the perimeter of the outer tub that hold on this plastic ring. Find those catches and put outward and upward pressure on those to release the catches.
3.) Look down in the gap between the inner and outer tubs for stray laundry. I used a retrieval tool (Lowes 403255) below to grab the socks. There were especially several socks in the back right corner near the pump inlet. Run the drain and spin cycle and look again. There were more strays hiding that I nabbed the second time!
4.) Snap the inner cover on by lining up all those catches and seating them. Snap the big metal lid back on by aligning and giving a good downward thump. Run the machine and be the hero, and don't be too mean to your wife about tossing those socks down in the crevices. Half hour and $3 for the retrieval tool is far better than all that RPS mess.
73834123-bb01-4203-9e55-d8a15f41d96d.jpg
Not finding what you are looking for?

164 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Washing Machines Experts

Alexander

Level 2 Expert

171 Answers

Cindy Wells

Level 3 Expert

6688 Answers

vince

Level 3 Expert

2530 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...