I replaced transmission,how washers go on eash side to make ot pull

It is on the transmission. They probably forgot to connect it.

On the water pump there are two rows of large brass plugs. Behind/under each plug is a valve that, if they weren't properly prepared for storage, are either rusted shut or the spring is rusted away. Remove the plugs carefully so as not to round them off and check eash valve. If any are bad replace all of them.

check it with car running pull ot transmission dip stick wipe off transmission fluid with rag put it back in all the way pull back out look on stick it tells you on there what level your fluid is at

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the springs or pads has come loose or broken while being shipped on it's side without the shipping pins installed.

In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.

Here is a description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887


Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

this could be the coupling for the motor/transmission.

follows are instructions for removing the cabinet:

• Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screw from each side of the console.
• Pull the console forward and up to remove the tabs on the bottom of the end caps, out of the holes in the top.
• Lift the console up and lay it on its back.
• Unplug the harness connectorfor the lid switch.
• Insert a flat screwdriver into the front edge of the clip (located on both sides), and pry back. Remove both clips from the holes in the cabinet and slide down the other end of the clips and out the slot in the rear panel.
• Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening. Be sure when tilting the cabinet that the back edge clears the vacuum break.
• Tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling on the lid and opening of the cabinet. This releases the back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the back of the base.
• Carefully pull the cabinet away from the base of the washer and set it aside.
  Now you have access to most of the parts.

Now on the front of the base, you will see the pump. This is held on with two clips, Pop these off and pull the pump straight off the motor. The motor has two clips on it as well, (remove any screws if they are there, some have them, some don't) and pull the clips away. The motor will want to fall. Keep a firm steady hand under it to prevent damage to floor or motor.

Look on the back of the motor and see if you see a little rubber disk with 6 holes. There is a three pronged connection on the motor as well as the transmission. If this coupler is not broken, you may have a bad transmission. To check for a bad transmission, take something that you can place over one of the prongs on the connection, and spin that first clockwise and note what the agitator does. Now spin it counterclockwise and see if the basket inside the tub starts to spin. If nothing happens either way, you probably have a bad transmission. If you get action from the transmission, then you just need the coupler, which you can get one at a local appliance parts store. Replace the broken parts and replace motor/pump assy.

Hope this helps :)

Joe

The following link explains how to replace a lid switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

To answer your initial question, "Yes", you do have to remove the operator console to get to the switch. You will also need to remove the exterior case. The repair is not as difficult as it sounds and the switch is inexpensive. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

open the rear tail gate there should be a couple of screws on the inside near the rubber seal just remove them and the assbilme should pull ot and the bulb may be a twist lock and pull ot and remove the bulb

booth from timer to lid,,if you giggling with either its time to replace that part..happy new year,,ps if you need me to walk you through im here,,replacement

it is simple actually.

Just time connsuming.

First you need ot know, you have to pull the motor and transmission.

you need to unplug every thing, formt he motor and transmission, and thing that will tie it to the car.

Electrical cables, wires fuel lines, and transmission lines.

Pull each front tire off, you will need a drive axle removel tool and a ball joint seperator, youy can rent these at autozone. It is called loan a tool, you pay for them then get themoney back when you return it.

you want to remove the center axle bolt, this will be tough, best way is to use a ling pipe like a jack handle to turn it off.

then you need to undo the bolt for the ball joint and the tie rod ends, use the seprator with a hammer to remove.
use a large pry bar for the ball joint and push down on the control arm to pop the ball joint out and away form the arm.

Once you get it out, turn the entire assembly outward, the strut will turn with it so don't freak out.

then pull the assembly out tword you so that the drive axle pops out, then grab the axle and pull it out of the trans. Once you get both out, then move onto the motor mounts.

there is three of them, one on the passenger side on top one on the drivers side on bottom, and then the trans mount attached to the trans underneath.

ok not ur ready, using a cherry picker (engine hoist) attach the chain to the loop mounted on the top of the motor, ussually placed around the intake and heads. lift your engine out.

remove all of the bolts form the transmission bell housing,that is the big part attached ot the motor, you can then simply pull the transmission off of the motor. Make sure you do this on the ground to make sure you don't drop the transmission.

to put the trans oon the new motor, slide the gear into the trans attached ot the trans, do not remove the gear. you will have to wiggle the trans back and forth up and down and turn it a bit to get it to slide in, as the gear needs to line up with the sline. Replace the bolts and your ready.

Put your new motor in and put every thing back in the same order you took it out, as this will ensure you don't miss any thing.

If you have any problems or any questions, just message me back an i will be glad to help.

get some wd 40,spray on all 3 screws,tap eash screw lighty with screw driver and hammer then try to remove screws,also you can remove the blockscrew on each side and pull it out and get a btter grip on it,let me know-mike