F1 error code on me more elite quitpak2

SOURCE: F2 error code on my Kenmore Elite HE3 washer

Based upon your description, the drain pump has either failed or the pump filter has become clogged.
To check the pump, remove the bottom access panel. There you will find access to the pump clean-out.(Large,white screw cap) BE READY TO CATCH LOTS OF WATER. CAREFULLY AND S_L_O_W_L_Y unscrew the pump clean-out, catching and discarding the water. When the water flow finally stops, completely remove the clean-out filter. Inspect the clean-out filter, the drain hose from the tub as well as inside the pump impeller for any additional debris.

If you need further assistance, let me know
Regards,
reg501

SOURCE: kenmore elite he5 - error code F30

F 30 code can be reset by un plugging power cord for 5 minutes also pull out the detergent dispenser and reach all the way in to the back there is a small plastic flapper valve move it from side to side with your finger this will rest code f30 and save a tech visit..

SOURCE: F2 error code on my Kenmore Elite HE3 washer

Depending on how fritzed your drain pump is this may or may not work. I've been using HE detergent because it is supposed to cause fewer suds. However, apparently is causing more suds than needed. I need to use only a couple tablespoons? If your clothes are not dirty enough for the soap to grab onto then extra suds are the result. The repair guy said we had an excessive amount of suds in the system and this affects the sensor and causes the drain pump to run and run and run until it shuts off from overheating. This is why we get the F2 and/or suds error code. He said once a month run the machine on the hottest water cycle with a cup of bleach (no clothes). This will clear out any suds build-up and is cheaper than Afresh which works, too, (but smells cleaner than bleach). After sitting for a day our pump started working again (yay!) It also stopped making the horrible loud sound. So glad I do not have to replace the pump!! yet...(knock on wood!).

SOURCE: elite front-load washer error code F22 then F28

This is an indication of a door latch failure and/or interconnecting wiring problem. The first step in troubleshooting the problem is to unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of your washing machine. Sometimes these error codes are erroneous and can be easily cleared by resetting the CCU. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem. In addition, if the door latch remains locked following this procedure, there is a manual release you can use to open the door. Follow these steps:

1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with a 2 x 4, it makes access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.

If you still have the error code displayed, inspect the door latch mechanism for any broken, loose, or missing components. Next, open the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws in the rear of the washer that hold the panel in place. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off. Locate the door latch on the right hand side behind the front panel. Inspect the wiring harness from the door latch to the to CCU. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the top rear of the washer. Make sure all the connectors are snug and not loose or broken. In the majority of cases, a persistent error is a failed door latch. If all these preliminary checks are unsuccessful, replace the door latch. Follow these steps:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.


NOTE: Another method is to access behind the front panel from the top with the top panel removed. Either method works, but I have found that going through the front offers better access.

F28 is a serial bus error from the CCU (Central Control Unit) to the MCU (Motor Control Unit).

All you need is some Electronics contact cleaner spray and a 1/4 inch socket to remove the top of the machine and the back of the machine.
The CCU is the computer looking box at the top front right hand corner.
Find connector M13, (has red marking on it and only 3 wires) disconnect it by pushing the retainer tab back and pulling gently on the connector.
Spray the contacts of the connector and computer with connector cleaner.
Then re-assemble connector.
The MCU is in the back lower left corner.
Find the connector with 3 wires and red mark, and remove this connector in the same way you did the other, spray it and re-install.
Put the back and top back on.

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SOURCE: What does error code F26 mean?

DOOR SWITCH ERROR

If the door has not been opened for 3 consecutive cycles or the door switch is open while the door is locked for more than 5 seconds.

Possible Causes/Procedure

-Door not opened during 3 consecutive cycles.

1. Open and close the door.
2. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

-Door switch open while door is locked.

1. Push the door and check if it is completely closed.
2. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

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