Which direction does my new carb diaphram go in ?

Have You Changed The Diaphram In The fuel Pump It Sounds Like The Diaphram Has A Hole In It And Fuel Goes Directly To Crank Case Through the Pulse Hose

Chainsaws have all position diaphram carbs, this is because it has to work in all positions, one side of the carb will have a pump diaphram, this is actuated by a positive and negative pulse from the piston riseing and falling ( there will either be an impulse pipe from the crankcase to the carb, or a hole in the induction block and gaskets to achieve this ) the other side of the carb will have a metering diaphram, a needle and jets, this takes the place of a float bowl on a normal carb, as the engine is cranked the pump diaphram pulses, this in turn draws fuel from the tank via the fuel hose and filter. So if there is no fuel in the line, either the filter in the tank is blocked, or the hose is trapped,split or leaking, or you have no impulse to the carb.

check the head bolts to make sure they are tight

probably diaphram and needle bad in carb along with fuel filter, if all that is good make sure you have compression and last but not least crank seal could be leaking,causing it not to pulse the diaphram which in turn pumps fuel through carb

There are plenty of things you may have inadvertently done wrong, start first by checking fuel to the carb, replace the fuel filter in the tank, check the fuek hose up to the carb for signs of leaks, if all ok, re check the carb, on the pump side it is very importent the diaphram goes against the carb body followed by the gasket and the cover, this is because there will be two small flaps on the diaphram that act as non return valves, so must be against the carb body, there will also be a filter under the diaphram, this should be replaced, on the metering side of the carb it is very importent that the gasket goes against the carb body followed by the diaphram and cover, this is because the gasket is used as a spacer if not there the diaphram will be too close to the metering lever and it will flood, under the diaphram will be the metering lever, needle and spring, make sure this all moves smoothly, the metering lever should be level with the sides of the carb body, there will also be core plugs pressed into the base of the carb, these will be covering the jet holes, dirt can accumalate under these, however you need to pearce the plugs to remove them, and replace with new.

If you have dissmantled the carb and fitted new diaphrams, it is very important to re assemble in the correct order, starting with the pump side ( the diaphram without the disc in the middle ) the diaphram goes against the pump body, followed by the gasket, followed by the cover and securing screws, the metering side is the opposite, so the gasket goes against the carb body followed by the diaphram, followed by the cover and securing screws, the metering lever should be set level with either the sides of the carb body or the base of the carb body dependent on what brand of carb we are talking about, to service the carb correctly yoy should do a final pressure test with a bulb tester, the carb needle should hold a continual 2 psi pressure.

carburetor diaphrams are stuck. clean the carb and check the diaphrams to see if they are stiff.

I am not having any luck with crossing the number you passed. I really need just the number off the engine air shroud just above the spark plug. Having said that. I understand you have a fixed speed automatic choke Briggs and Stratton engine without a primer bulb.

To gain access to the carb diaphram it is not that hard. The carb and gas tank are removable with just 2 bolts after the air-cleaner is removed. One bolt with spacer is near the gas filler opening and takes a 1/2 inch socket to remove. The other bolt is on the front bracket and is a 3/8 head. Once you have the bolts out, pull gently and carb will slide off of the intake tube.
Then tip the bottom of the carb toward you (STOP note the linkage position) and then remove the linkage.

Tank and carb off....

NOTE: The diaphram may stick to either the tank or the base of the carb so be careful when separating carb from the gas tank. Remove the 5 screws holding the carb to the tank and lift straight up making sure the diaphrm is not stuck.
The diaphram is under the carb and will have a spring on it if yours has an automatic choke. Note which side of the diaphram the spring is on. On the side of the carb there will be a rectangular plate with ONE 1/4" head on it. Remove the plate. This is where the choke attaches to the diaphram. Before removing the diaphram inspect it for holes in places where is not supposed to
have holes. If there are no holes visible on the bottom of the diaphram remove the diaphram by disonnecting the linkage inside the side plate. Again inspect the top of the diaphram for holes. If you find any tears or holes take the diaphram to your nearest lawnmower parts supply and get a replacement. They
usually cost around $6.00
If your carb has a single fuel adjustment screw turn it closed until it just starts to snug up counting exact number of turns from the original position.
Remove the fuel adjustment screw. If you loosen it until it is almost removed the whole assy will pull out with pliers while screw is still installed.
(O-ring type mating area) Clean the hole and reinstall the fuel adjustment jet.
Turn it closed until snug then adjust to original position.

NO HOLES in Diaphram or before installing NEW diaphram.
Check the fuel pick up tube for obstructions especially on the bottom screen.
You should be able to pass air though the tube orally. Noting the tube is free of obstructions install the diaphram by connecting the choke link on the side of the carb and install the side plate. Install the carb onto the gas tank and evenly tighten the mating screws. Then take the tank and carb assy to the engine and connect the carb linkage. Slide the carb onto the intake tube and make
sure the O-ring on the intake tube is inside the carb intake throat. Install the 2 mounting bolts for the tank and carb assy.

Test engine.
Install the air cleaner screw. Fill the gas tank all the way to the lip of the tank where the gas cap screws on. (This will ensure that the diaphram has gas in it) It should start within 2 or 3 pulls.
If it runs... your almost done.
AIR CLEANER
Take the air cleaner foam and wash it with gas until clean. Then oil the filter with oil gently squeezing it to make sure oil is evenly distributed.
Once oil is evenly distributed SQUEEZE out all excess oil by squeezing the foam as tightly as you can. Then install the foam and air cleaner.

Task complete.
Thanks for using FixYa

Kelly

springs for the diaghrams are crucial items too!
but usually its the diaghrams leaking ! & dont forget to rebalance the carbs
Cheers rob

If the carb mounts directly on top of the tank chances are the diaphram gasket between the carb ant tank has swelled and needs replaced