Trying to keep gas heat going when electrical grid goes down. Simply plugging furnace power plug into extension cord and then into the Honda eu2000 does drive the furnace fan once the heat box reaches set temp.
You have to very careful powering up home appliances on portable generators due to back feed problems to incoming lines. I would recommend getting an experienced electrician to show and explain the problems with what you are considering. Many linemen have been shocked due to backfeed. The real way to perform this is to get the controller that is put on home generating systems such as generac type systems. These automatically isolate line supply from backup power from home generators, thereby eliminating shock hazards to linemen.
If prolonged shortage, you could disconnect the wires into the furnace and install an extension cord from the furnace to the 120 volt plug on the generator. Most fans are powered on gas furnace on 120 volt. Make sure your voltage needed on your furnace before attempting emergency power up. I have seen some furnaces power by 240 volt fan motors. If it is 240 volt then use the 240 plug wired correctly. PS when you get an electrician to help you with the wiring, check out the requirement to provide grounding, to lessen your shock hazard.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Honeywell Gas Furnace
A Make and Model number of the furnace not the thermostat will help but I can walk you thru the operation of a typical furnace. It sounds to me that the burners are igniting properly but the flame sensor is not sensing the flame and shutting down the system. You will need to find the sensor and clean it and check the wire from it to the control board. Typically, the flame sensor is found at one side or the other of the burner box. It is a small probe that the flame hits. Depending upon your model it may have a small wire attached to it leading back to the control. Or it may be part of your auto-pilot assembly. ? At any rate, you will need to get to it and very delicately brush it off. Then inspect the flame channel. This is a trough area where the flame travels to ignite all burners. Over time, they tend to fill with rust and debris. Take a small screwdriver and run the blade down the trough. Inspect the wire that goes from the flame sensor to the control board. Make sure it is not frayed or broken or shorting out and that the connection at the board is good.
Beyond that, it's time for a technician to come.
Let us know the Make and Model of the furnace (found inside the furnace cabinet) and maybe we can help you further.
SOURCE: Furnace doesn't reach desired temperature
One of two things you can try. Do you own a volt ohm meter? Anytime your unit cycles short like it is doing the control circuit which on this one is 24 volts that engages relays and controls the gas valve to open and close. I am thinking the heat exchanger is getting so hot it is tripping the upper limit which for the most part is around 180 degrees. So next time it turns off take your ohm meter and with the power to the whole unit off. Either turn the breaker off or there is a light switch that is real close to unit turn it off. Undo the two wires to the gas valve and ohm them out. You should have continuity if you get nothing check each limit switch should have a couple. Undo wires to them and check. If you find one that is open more then likely the upper one. They are a safety device that keeps the unit from getting too hot.
There might be another option increase the speed of your fan motor to get the heat out of furnace quicker. Look at the circuit board notice the fan wiring going to it. The Red wire from fan is low speed look to see if it is on HEAT on the board. You should have 4 speeds to pick from you could take the black off of COOL and swap wires and test the unit by doing that. I'm going to put a solution on this so I can come back to it quicker. Even though we a just testing it for now. ken
SOURCE: Ruud Electric Furnace Cannot Reach Setpoint - "Watt Restrictor"?
unfamiliar with watt restrictors.
heat strips have 2 safety devices, a thermal overload, they get to hot they shut off, cause not enough air flow increase fan speed this device is auto reset. a fusible link a fail safe to thermal over load, no reset and sometimes replaceable. if this does not help would like to ask you a few questions. one of the buildings i take care of has 200 + reem/ ruuds all electric heat. if a part is defective replace, please do not by pass. safety frist.
SOURCE: Intertherm model MGHA-090-AAPQ -- combustion air keeps running
Sounds like a problem with the circuit board.
SOURCE: rv electrical question
By the main breaker in the camper, do you mean the main 24 or 12 volt breaker, or the incoming 120vac breaker? Is it tripping the breaker in the camper, or the house? If it is tripping the breaker inside, i would look for maybe water damage, rusty components, maybe have an electrician come look at it, not worth going out away from home, and that problem ruining your vacation! Does this unit have a generator set? Try disconnecting the generator too. Hope that helps!
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