How to adjust slide out

Paslode im350Reliable, high-performance gas framing nail gun with low weight and excellent balance, enabling extended work periods with lower fatigue. Multi-angled teeth nose probe provides an additional bite to prevent tool sliding and ensure positive placement in timbers. The sequential trigger for safety. The lock-out function engages when only 3 nails remain.


1 x 2.1Ah Li-Ion Battery90min Charge TimeFires 3.1mm 51-90mm NailsFires up to 120/minFires up to 9000 Shots per Battery ChargeSequential Trigger ActionTool-Free Depth AdjustmentWithout Nose PieceWithout Battery IndicatorMagazine Window

An adjustment need to be made on both of your slides. Depending on the type of slide, the adjustment would need to be done on the lower outside or by inside through the cabinet and under the bed. Making the adjustments are not difficult, getting to the adjustment points may be another story. One important point is to be careful to NOT over extend the slide, this can put excessive pressure on the wall and cause the fiberglass on the exterior to crack. I found out the hard way. Wether the points for adjustment are on the inside or outside, most likely it will be a combination of push bolt with a locking nut. You will need to adjust the lower part of the slide towards the inside to even up the gap. If you can get an actual measurement of the gap, you will want the bottom gap to be just slightly larger; roughly 1-2 mm or 1/16 to 1/8". Once the gap is corrected, now you will have to make an adjustment on the screw drive or worm gear to adjust how far out the slide moves. For an older unit, like my previous 5th wheel, it was easier to remove the anchor bolts from the floor, manually push the slide out to make the slide flush and then re-anchor the drive. However you may end up adjusting, make sure you do everything slow and gradual, keeping everything even.

When I upgraded my bed from a queen to a king, I had to adjust the entire motor assembly to have it centered on the slide for even pressure. While you have your tools out and working on this, take a few extra minutes to evaluate the foam seal gasket around the inside of the slide. If you see any tears or cracks, no matter how small, go ahead and replace it now to save you time and energy later and prevent outside elements from getting in.

timing or valve adjustment or carb high end circuit clogged rebuild

The ball bearing is a check valve. The ball should be in the input side of the water with the spring underneath.
input side ----->( O/////)-------> output side

every headlamp has two adjusting set screws. One for vertical and horizontal. They are normally a torx driver socket that will turn these screws. If you have a garage use the garage door at night to set the beams reflecting off the door. Centering the truck to a center mark on the door would be helpful when you make the adjustments. That way your headlamps should aim evenly. Please note if your driveway is not level jack up the trucks rear end to make it so. Leveling the vehicle makes the difference before any adjustments are mad

You don't have to do anything It does it on its own as long as the pieces are all there. The power valve is the thing that opens up a larger exhaust hole for the two stroke engine. It is shaped like a spool and it twists as pressure builds due to high rpm. On the 1984 it is on the left side of the bike right up front behind the clutch cover.

How do I tighten a belt on a troybilt Tecumseh rear tine tiller?

In regards to the front wheel, there is little or no adjustment to align it to the frame assuming that the fork tubes and triple trees are not tweaked/bent or loose and that things are torqued to specks. The unit in the bottom pic gets installed on the rear wheel, in other words the rear wheel is between the two plates in that pic. The dowel with the black sleeve goes through the spokes while the lower one goes beneath the tire to hold it in place.The yellow velcro strap holds the two halves tight to the wheel once installed. The brake pedal is applied to hold the wheel from rotating when it is in proper position.The two rods slide into the ends of those plates and extend forward to the front wheel to center the rear wheel using the adjusters on the rear wheel/axle. You can also use a wire like a wire coat hanger to make a jig to measure to the center of the rear axle forward to the swing arm bolt center. Take a straightened out piece of hanger and put a small "L" on the end of the wire about 1 1/2 " that would go into the center/indentation in the swing arm bolt. Use a small "O" ring or the like as a slider on the wire and slide it to the center of the axle once the forward end is in place in the center of the swing arm. Measure both sides and adjust accordingly to get them even. This is done also keeping the belt tension in mind too. This system works for most but using the setup that I have, the measurement is much more fine/accurate in that you are extending the rods to the front wheel and turning the rear axle adjusters 1/2 turn will see a big difference when extended 8' or so to the front wheel. I think you can see where I'm going here. Your best bet is to look in the factory manual, it describes the procedure pretty well.

I have an 87 MR2 and this is how to adjust mine. Headlights have two spring loaded adjusting screws, one on the top controlling up and down movement and one on the side controlling left and right movement. The simplest method requires a blank wall 25 feet in front of the vehicle and a level floor. Position masking tape vertically on the wall in reference to the vehicle centerline and the centerlines of both headlights. NOTE: It may be easier to position the tape on the wall with the vehicle parked only a few inches away. Adjustment should be made with the vehicle sitting level. Starting with the low beam adjustment, position the high intensity zone so it is 2 inches below the horizontal line and 2 inches to the right of the headlight vertical line. Adjustment is made by turning the top adjusting screw clockwise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam. The adjusting screw on the side should be used in the same manner to move the bean left or right. With the high beams on, the high intensity zone should be vertically centered with the exact center just below the horizontal line. NOTE: It may not be possible to position the headlight aim exactly for both high and low beams. If a compromise must be used, keep in mind that the low beams are the most used and have the greatest effect on driver safety. I typed this out of my "Haynes Manual 1985-1987 Toyota MR2 Book. I would think it would be the same method for a 1989 also. Hope this helps you. Redheadedwop

There should be a vertical height adjustment control potentiometer near the vertical output IC on the right side of the PC board near the front section of the TV that can be adjusted to shrink the picture vertically. Be careful not to short anything out or getting yourself shocked in the process if you decide to try to adjust it yourself. Good luck. This chassis has also been known to have bad solder connections in that area also, so don't man-handle the printed circuit board roughly.